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Old 05-10-2011, 05:27 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Ignition timing woes

So I got my tune done a couple weeks ago and the car has been giving me an annoying problem. Every now and then when i left of the gas coming to a stop the car will either die or dip way low rpms around 300-400. I thought it may be the timing so I put a timing light on it and found it to be about 3-4 degrees retarded. The car runs great cruising, Idling and in boost. I realize that if I set the timing to 16 degrees it will effect the rest of the tune. I have talked to my tuner and he is more than happy to fix the situation.He said that he can advance the timing around the idle point and it should fix the issue. I have hondata so all he has to do is send me the new calibration. What are your thoughts?

Things I have checked
Cam Timing- Good
Vacuum Leaks- Good
Timing- Retarded
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Old 05-10-2011, 05:43 PM   #2 (permalink)
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i think that's a good place to start. you can edit the n/a maps in hondata yourself easily. just download the calibration that's on there already using smanager, save that to keep as a failsafe backup, then start playing with the timing in the rpm/vacuum range that this is happening in. do some datalogging while you're at it to see what the exact conditions are when this is happening.
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Old 05-10-2011, 05:47 PM   #3 (permalink)
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the SAME thing is happening to me, except when it happens to me, my belt squeaks LOUD as hell. its so annoying
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Old 05-10-2011, 05:47 PM   #4 (permalink)
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can you post a screen shot?
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Old 05-10-2011, 05:48 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jew View Post
i think that's a good place to start. you can edit the n/a maps in hondata yourself easily. just download the calibration that's on there already using smanager, save that to keep as a failsafe backup, then start playing with the timing in the rpm/vacuum range that this is happening in. do some datalogging while you're at it to see what the exact conditions are when this is happening.
I have the original saved, I datalogged the condition and it is with the TPS at 0 percent and car is deaccelerating. I have been sending datalogs back and forth to the tuner.
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Old 05-10-2011, 05:51 PM   #6 (permalink)
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If you had a vac leak it would idle high
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Old 05-10-2011, 05:52 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by hotrodj View Post
If you had a vac leak it would idle high
Yea I was just ruling that out, tell me how to post a screen shot.lol
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Old 05-10-2011, 05:55 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Open up your tune on smanager, then push the 'PrintScreen' button on the keyboard. Then just paste it here, it will automatically copy the whole screen when you hit the printscreen button

edit, paste it in paint, save it then upload it to photobucket or whatever you use
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Old 05-10-2011, 05:55 PM   #9 (permalink)
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sounds like the IAC duty cycle is too low to me....

i'm not super familiar with sManager but i'm sure it has this somewhere, bump it up some, i'd almost garentee it will cure the problem. when it does i want some rep.
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Old 05-10-2011, 05:58 PM   #10 (permalink)
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sounds like the IAC duty cycle is too low to me....

i'm not super familiar with sManager but i'm sure it has this somewhere, bump it up some, i'd almost garentee it will cure the problem. when it does i want some rep.
mine does it as well, seems usually only when the car is pretty warm. the first thing i done was bump up the duty cycle, didnt help in my case.

im hoping to see something in his ign map around the first and second column thats similar to mine.

are you running a bigger cam?
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Old 05-10-2011, 05:59 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by schardbody View Post
sounds like the IAC duty cycle is too low to me....

i'm not super familiar with sManager but i'm sure it has this somewhere, bump it up some, i'd almost garentee it will cure the problem. when it does i want some rep.
i was going to suggest this, but it seemed more like curing a symptom and not the problem. i mean if it works, then it doesn't matter either way though.

i forget exactly where its at in smanager, but its in there. look for a slider bar for iacv duty cycle in one of the tabs of the parameters window.
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Old 05-10-2011, 06:04 PM   #12 (permalink)
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its under the idle parameter lol
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Old 05-10-2011, 06:07 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Old 05-10-2011, 06:17 PM   #14 (permalink)
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you should be a good 2/3 way up the slider..... why so low?

jew it isnt a bandaid, at low duty cycle the IAC cannot react quickly to changes in airflow, so duty cycle needs increased.
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Old 05-10-2011, 06:18 PM   #15 (permalink)
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also just realized your "moving" idle speed needs increased. 950-1050rpm is a good range at full temperature.
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Old 05-10-2011, 06:22 PM   #16 (permalink)
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used to be only at 1/4 on the stock motor.

i figured close to the reg idle speed would be good for moving, but i will try. ty! 4 eyes are better than 2 lol

what do yall think of the 'ign controlled idle' parameter?
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Old 05-10-2011, 06:31 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by schardbody View Post
you should be a good 2/3 way up the slider..... why so low?

jew it isnt a bandaid, at low duty cycle the IAC cannot react quickly to changes in airflow, so duty cycle needs increased.
What about if you shut your car off and then try and restart it? and it dont want to start, Car is not over heating but its warm and maybe heat soaked? how do you fix warm start up? J.W
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Old 05-10-2011, 06:52 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I tried to do the print screen shit but it wont work on my computer. I might be able to just take a pic.

Edit here ya go



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Old 05-10-2011, 06:55 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotrodj View Post
used to be only at 1/4 on the stock motor.

i figured close to the reg idle speed would be good for moving, but i will try. ty! 4 eyes are better than 2 lol

what do yall think of the 'ign controlled idle' parameter?
the ign idle control looks fine, i've honestly never messed with that because i've NEVER had an issue with idle speed after a tune. basically timing makes torque, when idle speed falls ignition timing is added to make more torque and bring idle speed back up quickly (opposite happens when its too high thats why there is 2 tables). if there is an idle issue its almost always fixable with just the normal tables and iac duty cycle...

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What about if you shut your car off and then try and restart it? and it dont want to start, Car is not over heating but its warm and maybe heat soaked? how do you fix warm start up? J.W
no clue what you are asking. water temperature isnt changing when the car is off, IAT offset is what you are talking about, but the heatsoak or high IATs have nothing to do with what we are talking about.
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Old 05-10-2011, 07:01 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Yes i went off topic, lol i will PM you sorry about that OP


no clue what you are asking. water temperature isnt changing when the car is off, IAT offset is what you are talking about, but the heatsoak or high IATs have nothing to do with what we are talking about.[/QUOTE]
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