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Old 02-03-2011, 03:21 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default d16z6 low oil pressure when hot

i have a d16z6 with eagles and vitaras(not turboed yet) with 1300 miles and i installed a glowshift electronic oil pressure gauge with a sandwhich plate and at idle on a cold start my oil pressure is around 55-60 psi but when it warms up th oil pressure goes to 5 psi and if i hit the gas and let off the gauge will read 0 for a quick second then it goes back to around 5 psi. my oil light hasn't ever came on but i think that my oil pressure is to low i was wondering if i should shim my oil pump oil try a thicker weight oil.
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Old 02-03-2011, 03:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Normal. Don't worry about it.
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Old 02-03-2011, 03:57 PM   #3 (permalink)
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^^^^

+2

Also, does the pressure build with revs. If so no worries as most gauges are not at all accurate at the limits of their scale.
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Old 02-03-2011, 04:09 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Did you put new bearings in the motor when you rebuilt it? What bearings and what were your main and rod bearing clearances. How did you measure them? What oil are you using? Did you port the pump?
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Old 02-03-2011, 04:18 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Porting the pump or shimming the spring makes no difference re low oil pressure at idle when hot.
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Old 02-03-2011, 06:56 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I used new acl duraglide bearing. I plastigaged them and the specs where fine and im using penzoil 10w30 and the pump is stock untouched. Also as i rev it the oil pressure does go up.
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Old 02-03-2011, 06:59 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Could be the oil gauge, my oil gauge needle failed on me and gave me the wrong readings, you might need a new oil pump, or if u use sealer to seal your oil pan gasket, ur oil pickup might be clogged. I have a d16z6, i ported it and now i get good ass oil pressure, my idle is 25 PSI.
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Old 02-03-2011, 08:39 PM   #8 (permalink)
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If you have 10# per 1000rpm or better there is nothing wrong with your oil pressure.

If the light is working but is not on your idle pressure is OK. The gauge is just inaccurate at that pressure. The gauge is probably OK once you get over 10 or 16psi.

Before you spend any money or time on it, hook up a second gauge to test the first gauge.
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Old 02-03-2011, 08:41 PM   #9 (permalink)
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oil light = 1 psi

glow shift gauge is junk, i would start here before anything else.

if pressure reads 50 psi @ 3k rpm, your fine.



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Old 02-03-2011, 08:42 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99EJ6T View Post
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if pressure reads 50 psi @ 3k rpm, your fine.
My CRX along with Jose's hatch and Tommys car would read 35-40ish at 3k. Just saying
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Old 02-04-2011, 10:28 AM   #11 (permalink)
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My Z6 build saw 90-100psi on a cold start with .002 max factory bearing clearances. At hot idle saw around 10psi. 10 psi per 1k rpms is a good rule of thumb.
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Old 02-04-2011, 02:04 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99EJ6T View Post
oil light = 1 psi

glow shift gauge is junk, i would start here before anything else.

if pressure reads 50 psi @ 3k rpm, your fine.
This for piece of mind.
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Old 02-12-2011, 08:31 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Staypuff578 View Post
My CRX along with Jose's hatch and Tommys car would read 35-40ish at 3k. Just saying

i have right around 40psi at 3k rpms when its fully warmed up.

also the pressure is different between using synthetic and reg oil.
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Old 02-12-2011, 08:41 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Normally with a good synthetic, pressure difference between hot and cold is less than with mineral oil. That is one of the big advantages of synthetic oil.
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Old 02-12-2011, 08:49 PM   #15 (permalink)
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yeah.. the slicker the better.. right now im using some ams racing oil.. 5W30 fully synthetic.. has alot of zinc in it which should be good for the bearings
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Old 02-12-2011, 09:05 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLK92_D16 View Post
My Z6 build saw 90-100psi on a cold start with .002 max factory bearing clearances. At hot idle saw around 10psi. 10 psi per 1k rpms is a good rule of thumb.
Its also what the service manual says
10psi at idle is spec.

I'd bet your gauge like said before, is just inaccurate.
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Old 02-14-2011, 07:33 AM   #17 (permalink)
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What's your clearances? And when I ran my Autometer, I saw 100PSI at cold start and 15PSI when fully warmed and this was being boosted also and with 5w30.
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Old 02-15-2011, 05:31 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I dont remember the clearences but i think they where .002
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Old 02-15-2011, 11:14 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I dont remember the clearences but i think they where .002
That's the max service limit, I would run a thicker oil like 10w40 or 5w40 and see if it improves. But I wouldn't worry too much about it. I ran my rods at .002 and they were fine. My main bearings were at .0015 I believe.
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Old 02-15-2011, 11:39 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boostfreak0885 View Post
yeah.. the slicker the better.. right now im using some ams racing oil.. 5W30 fully synthetic.. has alot of zinc in it which should be good for the bearings
ZDDP often simply called zinc is there to help high pressure areas that are iron or steel, like cam lobes and followers and valve stem tips and even the rings maybe. It has no influence on the metals that bearings are made of and is not necessary at the loads bearings run at.

Plenty of good clean oil flowing over them is what helps most with bearings.

0.002" is good for a high performance engine.

If you always have at least 10# per 1000 rpm you don't need thicker oil.

If you have over 20# per 1000 rpm when hot, you could gain from thinner oil or wider clearances, or a std size pump if an oversize one was fitted or by removing whatever is obstructing flow after the pump.
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