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Old 02-01-2011, 01:21 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Loose Turbo/DP/Exhaust Bolts

So, swapped the z6 into my EK, re-welded my exhaust from the EG myself and I took out the 3” flex section in the downpipe itself and I put in a 2.5” --> 3.0” adapter so I could clear the AC compressor this time around.

I drove it about 50 miles, over 3 days after the first start (in the new car):
8 of the 9 cylinder head exhaust bolts were loose and one was gone – used lock nuts (stock)
2 of the 4 bolts of the 4-bolt T3 flange were gone and 1 was loose, 1 was fine – I Used Flat washers & lock washers (Grade 12.9 M10x1.50 metric bolts)
4 of 5 downpipe bolts were loose, 1 was fine. I used no lock washers (Grade 12.9 M8x1.25 bolts)

2 questions:

1.) For those of you that have had this type of problem, what did you do to fix it? I don’t think loctite can handle the heat (even the 242). I guess I need better lock washers? What can I do here? Maybe thread tape?

2.) Are my exhaust bolts becoming loose because I don't have a flex pipe anymore? I don’t remember having this issue before…
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Old 02-01-2011, 01:53 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You need the flex section for a reason. Your other option would probably be solid motor mounts. The movement of your motor, with the leverage of 8 feet of exhaust translates a lot of movement in the back, even if its only 1/4" at the motor.

If your exhaust bolts stop coming lose, youll probably crack the exhaust in half.
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Old 02-01-2011, 01:56 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Stover® Lock Nuts on Coburn-Myers Fastening Systems, Inc.

Use those for the head-to-mani and mani-to-turbo (install studs in the mani).

For the DP, just plain spring washers and bolts should work

And definitely put the flex section back in.
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Old 02-01-2011, 01:59 PM   #4 (permalink)
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studs and metal locknuts and put that damn flexpipe back in.
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Old 02-01-2011, 02:00 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Nord-Lock - Maximum security for bolted joints - Home

Solution for loosening turbo bolts - onecamonly.com

I have a friend that had issues with bolts backing out, and the Nord-Locks seem to work great for him.

I don't have any issues, but I am using a manifold and DP combination that was engineered to work together.
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Old 02-01-2011, 02:13 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Those nordlocks are sick. If the stover nuts on my setup ever back off, I'm switching to those.
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Old 02-01-2011, 08:32 PM   #7 (permalink)
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flex pipe is a MUST
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Old 02-01-2011, 08:35 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
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flex pipe is a MUST
+1
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Old 02-02-2011, 08:09 AM   #9 (permalink)
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thanks for all the links/info guys, i guess you live and learn... it was my first time putting an exhaust in a car, i realize now that the flex section absorbs all the transversely mounted engine vibrations..

i will put that flex section in tonight, I'm glad the turbo didn't fall off on the freeway...
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Old 02-02-2011, 09:05 AM   #10 (permalink)
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question, where should the flex section be placed in the downpipe? the 3-bolt connection to the rest of my exhaust is about where the firewall/steering rack is or just a tad more towards the rear of the car.

Would it be alright to install it as far back as where the axles are-ish?

Thanks!
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Old 02-02-2011, 09:21 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I put mine right after the pan under the axle.. But that's where I ran outta pipe to from building the DP, but I know that's roughly where I've seen other companies put them.. I would deffinately put it before the firewall/steering stuff.. Too me that's less that the motor and manifold and all would have to move before the flex, so less weight to move and to me, less stress on turbo, manifold, etc.. Lots of room there too..
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Old 02-02-2011, 10:37 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Yep, you need a flex section to help you out there. Right after the oil pan is a good place. My setup consisted of a 3" DP with a flex section, OEM exhaust header nuts, and grade 8 nuts/bolts/lock-washers/washers from Lowes. Never had one back out on me.
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Old 02-02-2011, 11:54 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Put the flex wherever you have the most clearance, and as early as possible. Consider that if the motor is the pivoting point, a 1" movement at the motor, can translate to a foot (just an example, not factual number) at the rear of your exhaust.

So you want to put the flex as close to the motor as possible. You definitely want the flex, prior to where you exhaust is mounted to the car.

The other option is to run open downpipe. No flex needed.
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Old 02-02-2011, 12:27 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I dont wanna thread jack but didnt want to make a new one.
Does anyone know where and what size studs to get for the eba cast iron manifold?
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Old 02-02-2011, 01:41 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I think theyre your standard 14mm bolt. I got mine from the hardware store when I had one. Cant remember the thread pitch, m10x1.5?
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Old 02-02-2011, 05:45 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theidealone View Post
I think theyre your standard 14mm bolt. I got mine from the hardware store when I had one. Cant remember the thread pitch, m10x1.5?
If that's for me I got bolts but I want to switch to studs and nuts.
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Old 02-02-2011, 05:50 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Mine were 10x1.5
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Old 02-02-2011, 06:17 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Dont mean to thread jack. But whats the best choice for the hardware to attach the turbo to the manifold. Nuts and bolts or studs and nuts?
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Old 02-02-2011, 07:31 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Definitely using studs is the way to go. Find nuts that have a shoulder made on them and also have the jagged edge on the clamping side. O Rielly's is your friend. If you have a bolt take it with you to the parts store.
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Old 02-02-2011, 11:10 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I used lock washers and i also put the copper silicone stuff on the threads. I have not had a single bolt come loose after doing this. drove the car for thousands of miles. just let the silicone dry though.
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