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Old 12-17-2005, 10:03 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default CEL funky idle.... hmmm

Hey guys, well I got my car's CEL checked and the scan tool said it was the EGR system malfunctioning, code something 1456??? I dont know my buddy said its prolly just a bad hose or a hose might have came off the EGR port....??? does that sound right??? thanks guys
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Old 12-17-2005, 11:02 PM   #2 (permalink)
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i dont think 96 ex civic came with a EGR

unless its a HX, as far as i know... only HX have an EGR?

EGR = thing next to fuel rail on left with silver dot on top/harness clip


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Old 12-18-2005, 02:27 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I dont have one of those, but why would the scan tool read that?? I wonder what is wrong then????
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Old 12-18-2005, 06:34 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Did you burn that chip yourself? It could be a bad burn. Try doing it again.

What are your AFRs during idle? Mine idles like crap if its any leaner than 15:1
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Old 12-18-2005, 07:14 AM   #5 (permalink)
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EGR=a little different on the ex trim model. It should be attached the fuel rail, just as a little selenoid with a hose going in and out.
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Old 12-24-2005, 08:42 AM   #6 (permalink)
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i just put a d15b in my car so now i have an extra hose, (the one from the egr) what should i do with it
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Old 12-24-2005, 08:39 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Honda4VW
EGR=a little different on the ex trim model. It should be attached the fuel rail, just as a little selenoid with a hose going in and out.
its not, I cant find the damn thing....
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Old 12-24-2005, 08:40 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I know its an EX, it has every single power option, sun/moonroof and what not, I just dont know where that EGR thing is......
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Old 01-31-2006, 07:25 PM   #9 (permalink)
 
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The EGR valve and vacuum line are just below the tb, and a litle to the left, there is 2 vac lines, one of them is for the egr, which run from there to the manifold, and the line runs right between the 2nd and 3 runner, not the pcv, which goes under the mani, this one ends right there, next to the head, right where the mani bolts to the head. if you look at that first pic in the post, you can see the vac line running between the 2nd and 3rd injectors, thats it right there. inside the mani when you take it off, youll see 4 small holes, one running to each port, thats where the egr comes in at. youll also notice a buildup of carbon or other brownish oily looking sludge from the gasses.

this will not cause the car to idle funny, as i have done removed this hose because of aftermarket manis, if anything it makes a little more power, because of cleaner air, and not old exhaust.
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Old 01-31-2006, 07:55 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Unless I missed something He said his DTC was a 1456. A 1456 indicates a evap leak that is concerning the tank area. Usualy this means a loose fuel cap. I also know that the 96-00 civics were notorious for having the bypass solonoids failing, but if my memory serves me correctly this type of a failure would cause a 1457 which indicates a evap leak in the canister area of the evaporative system. If the car is truely a EX (D16Y model then it is NOT equiped with any type of an EGR system. NOX emissions were not a problem in the d-series motors so honda did not incorperate them on most of the models. The models that did see a EGR system were normaly the HX models that were set up and advertised for ULEV emisions and high fuel ecconomy.

Hope this helps.
Probable cause is a loose fuel filler cap or a failed Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor.
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Old 02-15-2006, 04:05 PM   #11 (permalink)
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the solenoid on the fuel rail is for evap emissions,

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Old 02-15-2006, 04:40 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyblkVTEC
Hey guys, well I got my car's CEL checked and the scan tool said it was the EGR system malfunctioning, code something 1456??? I dont know my buddy said its prolly just a bad hose or a hose might have came off the EGR port....??? does that sound right??? thanks guys
Um just to let you know that code is for an EVAP leak... I'd start by just checking to see if the gas cap is tight and reset the light!
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Old 02-16-2006, 06:02 PM   #13 (permalink)
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to the above, not just tighten the cap pressure test it too. it has a one way check valve and should hold a set amount of pressure it can hold. if its too low you need a new cap
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