D16z6 Dyno power loss and CEL 10 - D-series.org

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Old 07-24-2018, 01:58 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default D16z6 Dyno power loss and CEL 10

Hello everyone,

I have done my rebuild of the d16z6 engine that sits in my civic wagon.

I did the proper break-in period.

But, what I thought is that I had CEL1 code of o2 sensor, and that my tuner will just turn that off.

I got to the dyno yesterday, did the pulls, and the car would just not make power. That is I got 90kw or 120ish HP, where I should have been closer to 150-160hp mark.

Tuner found that I read the cel wrong, and it is CEL 10 meaning IAT sensor.

I did mix up the wires of the IAT sensor and the other connector that sits underneath the throttle body.

I have two questions:

1. Is it possible that I am missing 40 hp because of the dead IAT sensor?
2. Is it possible that I am missing 40 hp because something died in my ECU after I mixed up the connectors? ( I read that happens ).

Today I will switch out the sensor, and see if it is the sensor or wiring that gives me the fault. I have one week to figure out where my power went.

Here are the specs of my engine:

- 12.5 CR
- ARP cylinder head stud kit.
- Elring OEM head gasket (0.7mm)
- Head porting and polish (professional).
- Valve job (professional).
- Port matching to Intake/exhaust manifold.
- Comp cam 59300 camshaft.
- Repolished camshaft.
- BC racing single valve spring set.
- Skunk2 pro titanium adjustable cam gear.
- Edelbrock intake manifold.
- LMA rebuild (for noise).
- New thermostat
- Distributor rebuild.
- Custom half size radiator.
- Mishimoto radiator hoses.
- New Slim radiator fan.
- Walbro 255 LPH fuel pump.
- Retested fuel injectors.
- Teikin PM7 75.5 pistons.
- TP (japan) piston rings.
- 75.5 bigger bore.
- H22 type R Throttle body (62mm)
- King crankshaft bearings.
- Taiho (japan) rod bearings.
- New OEM intake/exhaust valve stem seals.
- GMB water pump..
- NGK BKR6E spark plugs.
- New spark plug wires.
- 3" intake pipe
- high flow pipercross filter.
- 2.25 exhaust all the way back.
- 4-2-1 Ebay exhaust manifold.
- 2 resonators, bigger muffler.
- Exedy clutch.
- Oil catch can (catches oil from pcv and head).
- New cluch release bearing.
- New belt tensioner..
- all new seals, belts, oils and filter.
- P28 chipped ecu.

Bonus question on adjustable cam gear on comp 59300 camshaft - how many degrees do I advance or retard it for maximum gains?

Please help me out, I really spend a whole lot of energy doing this rebuild myself.


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Old 07-24-2018, 04:06 AM   #2 (permalink)
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The IAT very important. Your engine makes fuel and timing adjustments based on readings here. If your ECU is not getting an accurate reading from it, you'll lose power.
For your bonus question: **most** single cam applications don't really need adv or ret on the cam unless specified by the cam manufacturer. The dyno will be the only way to determine how much, if any, benefit you receive from advancing or retarding your cam.
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Old 07-25-2018, 12:22 AM   #3 (permalink)
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You will not have destroyed the IAT sensor. Fix the CEL, retune and go from there. The advance/retard should be tuned on the dyno. For best results, you should have degreed the cam but you can't do that with the engine in the car. So just find a safe point where the valves will not fuck with the pistons and tune from there.
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Old 07-25-2018, 12:54 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I have nothing to add to this but would like to see more pictures of the wagon.
I owned a 91 EF Wagon for a few years I had a DOHC ZC in mine. Should have never traded it off.
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Old 07-26-2018, 03:41 PM   #5 (permalink)
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What kind of dyno was it?

In regards to the cam timing, I found this post from Danz on another site when I had the same question:



Was the engine tuned to the point that detonation was detected and then backed off a couple of degrees? There could be power left to be made by adding timing. Depends on how competent your tuner is.
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R.I.P. Pat Primmer

Last edited by Paterico; 07-26-2018 at 03:43 PM.
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