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Old 07-01-2018, 10:39 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Electrical gremlin under the hood.

So, today I did a test drive of my newly rebuilt d16z6 engine that sits in a 4th gen civic shuttle chasis.

After about 400 miles, I was closing in on home, and thought it cannot be that first test drive went so well.

And then my RPM needle just dropped to 0. The engine kept on running fine.
I was almost certain that distributor has filled up with oil or that something of sorts has happened (had that a few years back).

After stopping and inspecting the dizzy, everything seemed fine.

However, now the car did not want to start due to starter motor turning over a few times and then stopping.

The battery was fine, the generator was fine. So I push started the car, and got back home.

While driving the RPM needle mended itself. At home, guess what, the electrical gremlin hid itself - the car starts from half a turn, and rpm needle is fine.


I looked at the diagrams and figured out that the blue wire going to ignition module in dizzy is responsible for rpms on tach, I will inspect that tomorrow. But, what could have caused the starting issue?

I looked at the starter diagram, and it seems that to start the car there has to be some signal from PCM (ecu). Could that signal have something to do with distributor? Meaning that some wires are bad in my dizzy, causing the rpm needle to drop and the car to not start properly all in one?

Any insights are welcome!
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Old 07-01-2018, 07:49 PM   #2 (permalink)
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There is a low current starter signal wire to the ECU that tells it when the starter is engaged. I believe this is the same signal used to power the starter solenoid. This is used for a few different functions by the ECU but it has no bearing on the starter motor itself.

There could be numerous causes for the no start situation. A faulty starter could work intermittently (I’ve experienced this personally) but I would check to see that you have power to the starter solenoid wire first. Obviously you’d need to replicate the no start situation before you check.

If you have a model with a clutch interlock switch, there’s a starter relay near the hood release lever/switch. If there’s no power to the starter solenoid wire, you’ll want to check this in addition to the clutch interlock switch.
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Old 07-02-2018, 05:41 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Look at the distributor harness, and pop the cap adn rotor off, and take a peak at the ignition module and its connections.

a tach signal reading zero, yet motor keeps running is more commonly a gauge cluster tachometer going bad, but it CAN be an ignition module or wiring taking a crap as well.

The tach signal is taken from the ignition module directly. That wiring inside the distributor can get crusty and intermittent.


Id look for any wiring corrosion, pinch points, or any burn marks
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Old 07-03-2018, 02:15 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Checked the dizzy, yet again it is half full of oil even when I replaced both seals. I am done with wanking about the old one, I ordered a new Ashuki unit. I read that the brand is supposedly good. Is there any info about it here on forum?

I checked and the alternator is not giving enough output (only 12.89v with engine running) so I will tighten the belt or use another one I got as a spare.

Hopefully this stuff kills the green long-eared gremlin.
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Old 07-03-2018, 06:04 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TadasB View Post
Checked the dizzy, yet again it is half full of oil even when I replaced both seals. I am done with wanking about the old one, I ordered a new Ashuki unit. I read that the brand is supposedly good. Is there any info about it here on forum?

I checked and the alternator is not giving enough output (only 12.89v with engine running) so I will tighten the belt or use another one I got as a spare.

Hopefully this stuff kills the green long-eared gremlin.
Richporter distributors are the only ones that I’ve unanimously heard good reviews about.

12.89v is about right if the headlights and radiator fan are on.

Remember the alternator output can also change from 12.5v to 14.5v depending on the signal from the ECU

Cold start you should see around 14.3v with no accessories on.
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Last edited by Paterico; 07-03-2018 at 06:09 PM.
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