Code 4 (Crank Position Sensor) after replacing HG - D-series.org

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Old 09-29-2015, 09:11 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Code 4 (Crank Position Sensor) after replacing HG

so title pretty much says it..

did my head gasket on my z6 (stock, N/A, in a CRX) and after getting her put back together i'm throwing a code 4, but not in limp mode

No CEL before the work, just the bad HG.

I've checked all my connections and grounds, and the wiring has continuity.

Tested the Crank Sensor with a multi meter and it is outside of the 350-700 ohm range (was like 165-ish IIRC)

but whats boggling me is that before i pulled the head (and dizzy obviously) it was fine, no CEL.. i didnt drop the damn dizzy or anything so in not sure why now my crank sensor is bad

car runs well but i can tell the A/F mixture is off cuz of this CEL

anybody have any experiences like this??

any insight is appreciated!
thanks
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Old 09-29-2015, 09:26 AM   #2 (permalink)
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i had a problem like this but it was the tdc sensor i believe, ended up being a loose pin in the distributor connector
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Old 09-29-2015, 10:01 AM   #3 (permalink)
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i had a problem like this but it was the tdc sensor i believe, ended up being a loose pin in the distributor connector
thanks. but yea i've unplugged and re-plugged in the dizzy like six times trying to see if it was just a bad connection
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Old 09-29-2015, 03:42 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Odd things happen with electronic parts, one day they work the next they don't. It happens. You have already confirmed its out of spec so just replace it.
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Old 09-29-2015, 03:57 PM   #5 (permalink)
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clear codes with a scanner if possible. before next startup, do a wiggle test on al;l wires behind the distributor plug. Look for ones that allow the wire to move around a little bit.

Check to see if the back of the plugs have those tiny rubber grommets around each wire.

you can temporarily bridge the wires by using a few paperclips and extra wire. Carefully push a paperclip (straightened out) into the back of the plug at each wire. use spare wire to wrap around the end and bypass the plug for those 2 or 3 wires.

If the CEL still pops on, you need to start looking for a low mileage OEM distributor. YOu cannot buy just those sensors
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Old 09-30-2015, 04:06 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Odd things happen with electronic parts, one day they work the next they don't. It happens. You have already confirmed its out of spec so just replace it.
i hear ya, but i'd rather look for another cause before i drop dizzy money. But it is most likely going to be the fix.
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Old 09-30-2015, 04:08 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by mattliston View Post
clear codes with a scanner if possible. before next startup, do a wiggle test on al;l wires behind the distributor plug. Look for ones that allow the wire to move around a little bit.

Check to see if the back of the plugs have those tiny rubber grommets around each wire.

you can temporarily bridge the wires by using a few paperclips and extra wire. Carefully push a paperclip (straightened out) into the back of the plug at each wire. use spare wire to wrap around the end and bypass the plug for those 2 or 3 wires.

If the CEL still pops on, you need to start looking for a low mileage OEM distributor. YOu cannot buy just those sensors

yes i thought about giving something like this a shot.. i think i am just going to go thru the plug (both ends) and closely examine each pin to see if one is loose or corroded.
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Old 10-09-2015, 11:16 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I had this kind of issue before, but it was because I use a Y8 crank trigger to fire my ignition and my TCD indicator in my distributor was a little out of phase with my crank trigger. Being that all 3 of your triggers TDC, Fuel injection timing, and ignition are in your distributor I would be looking for loose or corroded wires or pickups in the distributor.
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