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Old 09-18-2009, 07:04 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Question Radiator fans dont turn on

Hi for some reason after my obd-1 conversion on my mini me my radiator fans dint want to turn on i checked the relay i checked the fuse they are good what alse could it be.
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Old 09-18-2009, 07:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
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temp sensor not working or not hooked up
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Old 09-18-2009, 07:27 PM   #3 (permalink)
 
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i checked it i bough a new one for the Gage and the fans switch still same problem the fans dont get power
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Old 09-18-2009, 07:28 PM   #4 (permalink)
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it? there are 2 temp sensors on Honda motors
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Old 09-18-2009, 07:32 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Was it working before you did the mini me swap?
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Old 09-18-2009, 07:56 PM   #6 (permalink)
 
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yes they did run (my A6 block dint came with one on the thermostat housing if that is what you are talking about
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Old 09-18-2009, 08:40 PM   #7 (permalink)
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there is one on the back of the block and one on the head below the dizzy

a6 motors have both
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Old 09-19-2009, 04:45 PM   #8 (permalink)
 
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nice i dint think of that one lol thnxz
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Old 09-19-2009, 06:31 PM   #9 (permalink)
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isnt the one on the back of the block used to turn the fan on and the one on the head used for air/fuel ratio?
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Old 09-19-2009, 06:33 PM   #10 (permalink)
 
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well shit i check the wiring replace temp sensor in the back and still fans dont want to turn on.
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Old 09-19-2009, 06:33 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Ive never seen my fan on and it doesnt go past half on the temp dial
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ya for real how hard is it to open the lid pull the fuse scratch ur balls for 10 seconds then put the fuse back and close the lid lol
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Old 09-19-2009, 06:34 PM   #12 (permalink)
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i had the same problem duck hard wired it so when ever the car is turned on the fan is running.
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Old 09-19-2009, 06:36 PM   #13 (permalink)
 
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I am thinking of that but dang i kinda always like my things just running right like they should i guess is just how i am
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Old 09-19-2009, 06:51 PM   #14 (permalink)
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look i will say this... i trust duck(vtecduck)we pulled everything we check every line, ground relays everything and we could figure it out. i'll say this duck has being doing car electronics for over 10 years. so we rig it up to turn on when i turn on the car.
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Old 09-19-2009, 07:26 PM   #15 (permalink)
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isnt the one on the back of the block used to turn the fan on and the one on the head used for air/fuel ratio?
Maybe it's different on different engines but I thought the switch on the block or the thermostat housing was the thermistor/thermoswitch for the radiator fan(s) and the one under the distributor is for the temperature gauge in the cluster?

I assume this because the Honda manual shows how to test the temp gauge circuit by removing the plug from the sensor under the distributor and grounding it to see if the needle shoots all the way to H quickly.

I'm likely wrong though since I'm thinking about it on my '95 and this is an A6 engine being referenced.
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One thing I have always believed, and I think should apply here too for the most part, is this: If you have nothing nice to say, don't say anything at all. Why put forth that effort to tell someone some negative stuff that you know they won't like to hear. Build your car how you want, and let others do the same.

Namaste
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Old 09-20-2009, 06:18 AM   #16 (permalink)
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There is a radiator fan relay in the underhood fuse box that is controlled by a combination of the coolant temp switch on the thermostat housing and the ECU.

There are actually 2 additional coolent sensors under the dizzy; 1 for the gauge cluster and the other goes to the ECU.
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Old 09-20-2009, 08:06 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by sql_civic View Post
There is a radiator fan relay in the underhood fuse box that is controlled by a combination of the coolant temp switch on the thermostat housing and the ECU.

There are actually 2 additional coolent sensors under the dizzy; 1 for the gauge cluster and the other goes to the ECU.
Good to know :td:. I'm going to look up the circuit schematic for them on Monday and memorize how it operates with both sensors in case I get a car in that has a similar issue. I hate just throwing parts at a vehicle to see if it fixes the problem so this info will be of great assistance .

From the way I've heard people talk at work, it sounded like it was always usually sensor on the t-stat housing which caused the fans to not come on, barring a bad t-stat itself. The fans stopped working properly on my Civic and replacing the thermistor on the thermostat housing repaired the issue for me.
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One thing I have always believed, and I think should apply here too for the most part, is this: If you have nothing nice to say, don't say anything at all. Why put forth that effort to tell someone some negative stuff that you know they won't like to hear. Build your car how you want, and let others do the same.

Namaste

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Old 09-20-2009, 02:31 PM   #18 (permalink)
 
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Buy a power probe start at the power wire then check ground get a wirirng daigram and work you way back. Thats How i fixed my teg.
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Old 09-20-2009, 08:23 PM   #19 (permalink)
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There is a radiator fan relay in the underhood fuse box that is controlled by a combination of the coolant temp switch on the thermostat housing and the ECU.

There are actually 2 additional coolent sensors under the dizzy; 1 for the gauge cluster and the other goes to the ECU.
Okay I looked today at the wiring schematic for an '89 Civic, '95 Civic and '99 Civic and the circuit works like this:

Battery power is supplied constantly to the power side of the fan relay, and since the relay is a normally open-type, current to the fan motor is cut when the relay is de-energized. When the ignition switch is turned on, power is supplied to the control side of the relay constantly, however the circuit is still open since the ECT sensor opens and closes the ground depending on temperature. When the ECT sensor reaches its designed-temperature, it closes the ground on the control side of the relay, completing the control circuit which energizes the relay. The power side of the realy closes, sending power to the fan motor and turns it on.

The only other item I saw on the schematic was a wire spliced upstream of the ECT sensor which is indicated as going to the ECM. Since the ECT opens or closes ground on the control side of the relay, am I safe in assuming that the ECM applies ground on it's own when it sees a need to in order to bypass the ECT sensor? Or is this spliced wire essentially a "monitor" wire for the ECM to see when the ECT sensor is activating the fans?

I know the single wire small sensor is for the gauge control module. It's just that I was just trying to look for the other sensor under the distributor in the component location index as well as the electrical circuits of the cooling system for all three Civics and couldn't find any at all.

This is bugging me now LOL.
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One thing I have always believed, and I think should apply here too for the most part, is this: If you have nothing nice to say, don't say anything at all. Why put forth that effort to tell someone some negative stuff that you know they won't like to hear. Build your car how you want, and let others do the same.

Namaste
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Old 09-20-2009, 08:44 PM   #20 (permalink)
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This is the circuit schematic from a '94 Accord so obviously it has more items on it due to the AC system than our Civics do but the radiator fan part of the circuit on the far left like I described is pretty much exact.

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One thing I have always believed, and I think should apply here too for the most part, is this: If you have nothing nice to say, don't say anything at all. Why put forth that effort to tell someone some negative stuff that you know they won't like to hear. Build your car how you want, and let others do the same.

Namaste
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