how do i clean out oil passageways in p2j head? - D-series.org

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Old 06-07-2019, 04:54 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default how do i clean out oil passageways in p2j head?


I don't have an impact, or a 14mm allen wrench, so i'm using a 14mm bolt with a couple nuts to act as a driver.. mixed success, but eventually i will be able to deliver torque to these plugs. before I do something stupid, can someone enlighten me as to the expected breakaway torque to bust these free? last thing I want is a fubar'd head after putting in the work of changing out all the exhaust valve guides and verifying that this sumbitch is still in spec..

so, if anyone has actually removed these plugs before, please share your experience. my concern is causing damage since i do not have an impact to use.. but if an impact is really the only practical way to do it, so be it. just confirm it for me please.. can't find much information online or in the service manual regarding these oil passage plugs.

1997 civic ex d16y8 p2j vtec
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Old 06-08-2019, 05:45 AM   #2 (permalink)
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It might still be a bit early for me and i dont have a head infront if me right now, but are you sure there is oil in them? It very well may be coolant.
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Old 06-08-2019, 10:50 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Default nope not sure, gut says oil, but experience says ask the wiser!

to me, it looks like they are in line with the camshaft journals, and connect to the rocker arm shaft/cam journal cap bolt holes.. I would like to know for sure without "learning a lesson" that costs me a good head.

if its coolant, I wont bother removing these plugs. if its oil, you bet.

oil still seeps out of the bolt holes for the cam journal caps every time I wash this head. have yet to borrow the neighbors pressure washer. have yet to send it into the machine shop for a valve job. call me cheap, but the truth is, I have set a goal to machine this rebuild as much as possible at home. and yes, its cost me way more in tooling than it would have if I would have originally just sent it into the machine shop. but the nice part is, im learning, gaining experience, and have precision measuring instruments and tools I didn't have before (with the hopes of learning how to better use them and using them in the future)

I managed to make an allen wrench but am not comfortable with the amount of torque these things are wanting. so im waiting.
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Old 06-08-2019, 11:06 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Go get a chemical resistant container, and let the head soak completely in diesel fuel for 3-4 days.

Make sure to shake the container a few times every day to unstick any sludge.

THEN try a good cleaning.
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Old 06-08-2019, 11:08 AM   #5 (permalink)
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a tub of clr for a week works good too
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Old 06-08-2019, 11:23 AM   #6 (permalink)
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thanks for the tips. diesel fuel and clr eh? havent heard of using those before so I thank you for the tip. the clr im assuming is used full strength? never used it before, period. but that's a lot of clr to soak a head, probably four bottles. at least. I think i'll go the diesel fuel route, as its more "native" to the application. and cheaper!

so, with my allen wrench fully seated in the plug, I have given it a good pull, and no budge.
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Old 06-08-2019, 11:42 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I diluted it with hot water when I dipped a head a few years back. a gallon of clr should be plenty
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Old 06-08-2019, 01:49 PM   #8 (permalink)
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how much does a gallon of CLR cost? and where to get it?

Some places of the country have a gallon of diesel cheaper than a gallon of gas
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Old 06-08-2019, 02:05 PM   #9 (permalink)
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walmart carries it


https://www.walmart.com/ip/CLR-Calci...ottle/14574716


https://www.walmart.com/ip/CLR-Calci...2f&athena=true


https://www.walmart.com/ip/CLR-Calci...1c&athena=true



like I said, I diluted mine with hot water and it sat for a week. went from clear to pitch fucking black

whatever is closer
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Old 06-08-2019, 02:44 PM   #10 (permalink)
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im actually heading to Walmart right now. but its hard to justify spending that kind of cheddar when I could get it cleaned at a machine shop for $30. I think i'll pick up some diesel fuel instead. we'll see if my Walmart carries this gallon of clr. will lyk how it goes either way

a member on reddit said: "You don’t need to take those out, I had my whole D16Y8 out completely apart last year for a rebuild as well and when I took my head to my friends to borrow his valve keeper tool to do the stem seals I asked about those and he said to just leave them be."

to which I replied: "I have no intention of using what you just said as the sole reason to "just leave them be"

to which he rebutted: "I mean if you want to go ahead, there’s nothing under them. They are from the casting process from what little info I could find on them."

so I am curious to really get down to the nit and grit here
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Old 06-10-2019, 06:10 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evanguy View Post
It might still be a bit early for me and i dont have a head infront if me right now, but are you sure there is oil in them? It very well may be coolant.
im with you on this. i think coolant goes through there.

honestly i would leave them there. use some pipe cleaner tools to clean out passages along with soaking the head in something for a few days. i see no reason to ever take those off.
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Old 06-10-2019, 06:57 AM   #12 (permalink)
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yeah I don't think they will be coming off. =D I went ahead and starting A 2% OXALIC acid bath agitated by an albuterol nebulizer bubbler connected to the oil v tec port. . after day two theres definitely a film of oil . and it sounds like a crazy science experiment on my back deck.
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