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Old 04-05-2019, 10:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default What d16 to build with what I got?

I have a 97 base model civic coupe with y7. Engine is currently in pieces for a rebuild. So far the only thing still good on the y7 is the block. I have an a6 bottom end and block, a y8 head, a z6 head. I have a y8 master rebuild kit including y8 pistons. I want to keep the car obd2a for now since I have a p2p ecu I. I need some help trying to figure out what to build here for higher compression and which oil pump to put on this build. I'm opening up the a6 block/y8 head combo motor to check it out today hopefully I see the pm6 pistons. Please help!
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Old 04-06-2019, 06:45 AM   #2 (permalink)
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oil pump will mostly be decided by your block choice y block you need y pump so you have a dipstick,

a6 z6 with with y8 injectors ckf trick,and a z6 dizzy to make it easier ,might "work" ...
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Old 04-06-2019, 03:17 PM   #3 (permalink)
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search for zeals compression calculator.


A6's pistons inside the Y7 block with the Y8 head may provide a tad too much compression for the Y7 ecu to deal with. You will most likely want to run 93 octane
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Old 04-06-2019, 11:41 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I'm changing to the y8 ecu(p2p). So, update after today: the a6 pistons are junk but the rods seem ok, going with a simple y7 mini-me, still unsure of which head (z6 or y I will use. Can i use the y8 cam in the z6 head for any level of gains?

Zeal was used on my prior build. I had a y7/z6 mini-me with a Brian crower stage 2 cam with GX pistons(the natural gas car). Compression ratio on that one was 12+:1 and ran ok on a y8 ecu and some timing. Was mated to a slushbox in a sedan, would do a burnout into 4th gear. I would have loved it to be a 5 speed.

.....that rod bearing was intact-ish until I broke the torque. The rest of it was in the pan and took out the oil pump. Second pic is just a part I'm throwing in here for the next guy, and for some reason is a step people often skip. Hone those cylinders! Before and after.
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Old 04-07-2019, 08:26 AM   #5 (permalink)
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have you looked at differences of y8 and z6 cam? I wouldnt bother lol

EDIT, just use best looking camshaft. We all know people beat the fuck out of the vtec motors for whatever reason

Y sub series time together, z sub series time together.

For timing help, heres a link, scroll down. identifies the timing issues with mixing z6 and y8 cams and gears
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...-head-1791059/
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Old 04-10-2019, 03:40 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks that helps a bit on timing.

Have an edelbrock adjustable cam gear to help out in the timing anyway

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Old 04-12-2019, 10:24 AM   #7 (permalink)
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For port polishing are y'all stopping just prior to the injectors or goin all the way?
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Old 04-12-2019, 10:42 AM   #8 (permalink)
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What? Are you talking intake ports or intake manifold ports. (Only IM ports have an injector)

Either way the injectors are only a half inch in the IM ports and there are no injectors in the intake or exaust ports of the head.

But normally you don't polish the intake ports so I ask you this;
are you speaking of the exaust ports and what you call the injectors are really the valve guides?

Long story short. Id port and or polish from the beginning of the port all the way to the valve seat.
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Old 04-13-2019, 06:17 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I have some very nice dremel equipment. Yes I meant in the intake runners. To help with velocity. Will do exhaust ports on the head and polish the chamber. Intake side of the head I'll only clean up I think(casting leftovers). Maybe port match....is it worth it?
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Old 04-13-2019, 06:30 PM   #10 (permalink)
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In my experience, over-smoothing doesn't add much that you'd notice. Clean away the casting marks, as you've suggested, but that's about it.

As to polishing the chamber, there's a theory that suggests you need to leave something for a bit of swirl.
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Old 04-17-2019, 09:54 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Turns out my local machine shop runs a special for Honda heads. $200 get the head milled, valve job, pressure test, deep clean. Not a bad deal I think unless someone near has a better option. The other shop only wants $100, but that's only resurfacing.
Next is which flywheel. I have an ACT flywheel(not sure of the weight) or an 8.8lb. Or does it really matter?
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Old 04-18-2019, 01:58 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Yeah go with the 200$ Package that isn't a bad price.

Also light weight won't make any more power it just makes it rev faster..if this is.a DD you may want more like a 12pound flywheel. Myself if just use oem for now.
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Old 05-22-2019, 11:39 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Slow rollin gettin her put back together but here she is almost done
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Old 05-23-2019, 05:44 AM   #14 (permalink)
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that block sure is yellow...
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Old 05-23-2019, 06:26 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robgoof View Post
that block sure is yellow...


yeah......reminds me of something but I cant quite figure it out








edit: oh yeah, I remember

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Old 05-31-2019, 07:47 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Hmm do I use a 3 wire iacv or 2 wire with a obd2a p2p 5 speed ecu.....i have both. The 3 wire 1 on the y7 tb and the 2 wire on the y8 im. I was about to go ahead with the 2 wire but saw a thread on hondatech stating that some p2p 5 speed ecu still looked for a 3 wire. Any clarification? Other fun part is I think this car may have originally been an auto trans
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Old 05-31-2019, 07:48 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Wasn't the yellow I wanted....apparently I was supposed to do a blue undercoat. This attracts hummingbirds
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Old 06-02-2019, 08:43 PM   #18 (permalink)
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So only have a few things left. Passenger side axle is fighting me so I gotta look in diff. Can't find my header stud nuts. Am down to only the 3 main mounts, no lower torque mounts at the moment. Still gotta hook up shift linkage and install weighted short shifter. Need an ex throttle cable.
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