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Old 09-24-2018, 02:23 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default d16a9 tune up...no turbo!

I own civic 88... with stock d16a9 engine in it. I want to here your sugestions on what to do/buy to get some more hp...
Of course without turbo, i dont want turbo.
Thank you all in advance.
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Old 09-24-2018, 05:16 AM   #2 (permalink)
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What plans do you have for it?
What kind of money are you looking to spend?
What are your power goals?

Over the years I have come to realize tuning is the best bang for the buck next to nitrous oxide.
But without a proper tune nitrous oxide becomes dangerous in high amounts. Without a tune the engine wont last long and only a small bump in power.

So tune, tune, and more tuning.
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Old 09-24-2018, 07:15 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79hilux90crx View Post
What plans do you have for it?
What kind of money are you looking to spend?
What are your power goals?

Over the years I have come to realize tuning is the best bang for the buck next to nitrous oxide.
But without a proper tune nitrous oxide becomes dangerous in high amounts. Without a tune the engine wont last long and only a small bump in power.

So tune, tune, and more tuning.
Of course, everything needs to be tuned if u want engine to last... i was hoping to touch 200hp without turbo, so i have the daily that can hit the track every now and then.

Do u have any sugestions...
Go for the high comp or somethibg else??
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Old 09-24-2018, 03:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Your goals are unrealistic.

You might hit 150hp with extensive engine work, and even then your aggressive cams would start to make it shitty to drive, so you wouldn't want to daily it.

Just go turbo.
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Old 09-24-2018, 03:36 PM   #5 (permalink)
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200HP N/A in a D16? I'm not saying it can't be done, but fitting in a B16/B18 swap you could get much closer to 200HP for much less of what you would dump into a D16 trying, without going turbo of course

My buddy built a D16Z6 high compression (13ish:1) for his 1990 Civic SI, added some sort of cam and valvetrain work (can't remember, he built it), 94 octane from the local Sunoco and a D16Y8 transmission for better get up and go. I tuned it for him (I'm not the best in the world but I have a pretty good handle on things) and his multiple dyno pulls at a nearby shop were just barely starting to break into the 170's (WHP).

(I just edited this to clarify the above /\/\ When I said "just starting to break into the 170's", he never actually got into the 170's. It stayed in the mid to high 160's, and was pretty constant. We kept pushing for the 170 mark though, but it would have needed more head/intake/exhaust work to make it happen.)

For the money he put into it to get there, he could have had 1 and 3/4 B series swaps by then and been making that number almost out of the gate lol.

But for as light as that car was (fully gutted, one seat), it was stupid fast! He also went all out bracing the car, wilwood big brake kit, awesome adjustable shocks/coilovers and a full energy suspension bushing setup and some really good grippy tires. It would hike the inside tire up off the ground when turning in, hardly understeering at all! It was a go-kart, a super fun auto-x machine.

The B16/B18's will get to 200HP with simple bolt on's, 200HP from a D series is very hard to do without heavily modifying just about everything, just shy of going forced induction. A B16B in stock form can hit 200HP with good engine management and a professional tuner no problem.

Other things you might consider if you want better get up and go, is a different transmission. I won't go into all the different types as there are pros and cons for everyone, but there are plenty of discussions out there about which D series transmission you might want. Outside of this, shaving weight is free If you like your interior, stop reading here lol. If you don't care what it looks like inside, stripping the interior completely (including sound deadening material) is usually good for around 200ish pounds. Of course, it never hurts to hit the gym and slim up too, as this also affects power to weight ratio (technically lol). Currently your car in stock form is approximately 132BHP per tonne. Strip out 200 lbs from it, you basically (butt dyno acceleration feel) give yourself 14 extra pseudo-HP's! That's free pseudo-HP right there.

Hope this helps!

Last edited by drtalon123; 09-24-2018 at 03:43 PM.
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Old 10-27-2018, 11:04 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Whack the head 1mm, get some better quench pistons, port the intake manifold, get more modern fuel injectors, build a good header, tune. Then, work on your gear box. It won't be hard to do 160WHP and with a shorter and closer gear box it will be so friggin fun.
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Old 11-04-2018, 06:21 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Acid_Beaver View Post
Whack the head 1mm, get some better quench pistons, port the intake manifold, get more modern fuel injectors, build a good header, tune. Then, work on your gear box. It won't be hard to do 160WHP and with a shorter and closer gear box it will be so friggin fun.
Which pistons? The only ones I can find that are not lowering CR are nippon racing pm7/p29 copies on ebay, of which I am not that sure about the quality, but could try...
More modern fuel injectors = OEM saturated ones, IE OBD1 B16? What's wrong with the OEM obd0 ones?

As for the tune, I think I saw a reply of yours somewhere saying there's no need to go OBD1, is it still valid?

Sorry for the thread hijack but I am trying to build a NA ZC, so I think it is kinda in topic
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