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Old 07-15-2018, 11:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default d16y8 vitara build etc

sup guys new on rebuilding motors thought this d16y8 in a civic I got was a good first start for me. I'm on some what of a budget not trying to spend more than 3k on this turbo build if I can. so my goal is around 400 to 350whp. I know ima need you guys on this one and by the looks of it iv came to the right place so far iv ordered YCP 75mm D16 Vitara Pistons + NPR Rings + Custom Length Rods + ACL Race Bearings , stage 3 clutch with flywheel , need help on picking out my injectors , also is it possible making this type of power on a stock head? or should I geta a cam stage 2 and retainers , ecu? , also got new motor mounts , and need help on which head gasket I should get is the stock oem ok for a 350 400 whp build? , also should I get a block guard ? also ordered a gate timing belt water pump etc etc , new aem cam gear that I got for free that was a plus so far I think iv touched up on what I think and if ya guys can send me in the right direction on what correct parts I should buy and on the rods do I need to notch the block? thanks guys for the help
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Old 07-16-2018, 04:14 PM   #2 (permalink)
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There's calculators available online to calculate the correct size injectors for your power goals. Make sure you spec them so they not maxing out their duty cycle (try and keep it under ~85%).

I'd go a metal HG and ARP head studs.

You can make that power without valvetrain upgrades.

I don't have any experience with block guards. Maybe someone else can shed some light on whether it's needed for that power level. If you get one though, make sure it allows coolant to pass correctly.

You'll have to trial assemble your block to see if you need to notch anything on your block, doubt it, though best to check if you've got custom rods. I had to notch the girdle brace on my A8 even though the rods were off the shelf so who knows.
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Old 07-16-2018, 05:27 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Block guards usually are okay as long as they are the correct material, installed correctly, and the block sees a machine shop for an alignment bore after install, if that same shop is not the installer.


Generally they are un needed, as once you reach a certain power level that requires more attention than simple rods and pistons, you will want to SLEEVE the motor rather than bandaid it with a block guard.
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Old 07-17-2018, 08:16 PM   #4 (permalink)
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so i shouldn't get the block guard? i just got orders the arp head studs forgot about that one
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Old 07-17-2018, 08:19 PM   #5 (permalink)
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which head gasket should i get as well?
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Old 07-18-2018, 05:34 PM   #6 (permalink)
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"generally un-needed" =//= "shouldnt get one"

Its up to you. I said make sure it gets installed correctly.

BUT, what I mean is, when you get to a power level where something like a block guard might help alleviate SOME of the block's stress, its generally in territory where you need sleeves, and sleeves make the entire "hole" stronger, and still allows a ton of coolant flow, depending on the type you get.



Some sleeves are vertical ribbed, touching the cooling jacket walls, some are like stock, pretty much fully open deck, but simply thicker.


My point being, the block guard will only strengthen one area of the stock sleeves/cylinders.
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Old 07-20-2018, 02:53 AM   #7 (permalink)
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k cool thanks matt i ordered one what the heck with it also went with the oem head gasket
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Old 08-14-2018, 02:37 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Use a cometic top and bottom and gasket kit. As far as I know, all H beam rods require the bottom of the cylinder walls to be notched.
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