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Old 07-11-2018, 05:58 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default D16Z6 turbo build wont stay running?

Hey guys its been awhile! My previous post is here if you're interested in the build. Just kidding, it wont let me post links. I'll PM you if you want to see it.



I did get Skunk2 Pro 1's all around as well as rear disc conversion. Not that it has anything to do with this post.




Sooooo, my issue. I built this thing as my first engine ever. It went well honestly. The only issue im having is that for some reason, the engine doesn't want to stay running by itself. Im not sure if it's running too rich or too lean or what...I just picked up an innovative afr gauge so ill have to check that.


I dont have the intercooler piping hooked up to the turbo, so i was guessing that maybe it doesn't have enough compression to keep itself running? I made sure that all the valves are lashed and everything. I can get it to run if i spray ether in it and keep on the throttle.


ALSO, it has a VERY SMALL coolant leak from the back of the block somewhere. I cant find where it's leaking, but if i let it leak, it will drain the whole system pretty much in a couple days. Any help would be amazing. Thanks guys.
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Old 07-11-2018, 02:39 PM   #2 (permalink)
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leak from back of block sounds like it could be the water pipe going between back of water pump and back of thermostat housing.


If it needs ether to start, its a fuel issue.


Having the intercooler piping off should not effect anything in regards to starting adn staying running.
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Old 07-12-2018, 05:37 AM   #3 (permalink)
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So when I originally rebuilt the motor, I noticed the oring on the hard pipe across the back of the engine was damaged on the end that goes into the water pump end. I replaced it with what I had, which were two similarly sized orings with a slightly smaller thickness. Im thinking the reason its leaking is because it's not making a good seal in that spot.


I am running a p08 ecu...would that matter then? It is getting gas. The only mod to my fuel system at the moment is an adjustable fpr. Just running stock injectors until i can take it to get tuned where i can swap them. I can hear the pump when I turn the key...
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Old 07-12-2018, 09:56 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I recently tuned 2 D16s with similar issues, after we checked compression, ignition and fuel and they were all fine.

1 Engine would start but run right up 4k and then drop idle like crazy AFRs all over the place. It was the intakes nuts to loose. Work perfect after all not were tightened.

1 Engine we could get start just fine on the stock ecu (y7).
But had a serious hard start and ran terrible when running.
Played with injector offsets, syncing timing, even tried adj idle with AFRs not great.
Took the piping off the and there was way too much air going thru IAC side TB.
Fixed the issue adjusting the Idle screw with IAC disconnected.

Bottom lines check the basics Spark, Fuel, compression.
Then Check vacumn leaks, IAC, Idle Scew, and mechanical timing.

Sometimes double/Triple check.

And if all else fails have a beer or 2 then come back and look at the problem.
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Old 07-12-2018, 10:08 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 92CXyD View Post
I recently tuned 2 D16s with similar issues, after we checked compression, ignition and fuel and they were all fine.

1 Engine would start but run right up 4k and then drop idle like crazy AFRs all over the place. It was the intakes nuts to loose. Work perfect after all not were tightened.

1 Engine we could get start just fine on the stock ecu (y7).
But had a serious hard start and ran terrible when running.
Played with injector offsets, syncing timing, even tried adj idle with AFRs not great.
Took the piping off the and there was way too much air going thru IAC side TB.
Fixed the issue adjusting the Idle screw with IAC disconnected.

Bottom lines check the basics Spark, Fuel, compression.
Then Check vacumn leaks, IAC, Idle Scew, and mechanical timing.

Sometimes double/Triple check.

And if all else fails have a beer or 2 then come back and look at the problem.

Good advice. I will have to check on that and see whats going on. Everything should be good, but it has been a minute since ive gone over everything in the engine bay. I tested my injectors to make sure they were working, which they were. So that's good. I know im getting good spark because i put brand new plugs and wires on it, as well as rebuilt the distributor and cleaned up everything inside of it.



I will have to look into the idle screw and whatnot. I read somewhere else that the idle screw could be the issue. I havent started it in awhile because of the coolant leak issue, but I think we have the coolant leak figured out. I will have to get back to you when I can mess with it. Thanks mate.
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Old 07-22-2018, 05:37 AM   #6 (permalink)
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How was it running BEFORE turbo? When you say "built", do you mean turbo or all out engine rebuild? What engine management are you running? Until that's answered, check your injectors to make sure they are seated properly. Make sure your IAT sensor is connected, your map and tps sensors are not cross connected, your IAC valve is tightened and connected. Then report results!
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Old 08-03-2018, 07:37 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txdragon View Post
How was it running BEFORE turbo? When you say "built", do you mean turbo or all out engine rebuild? What engine management are you running? Until that's answered, check your injectors to make sure they are seated properly. Make sure your IAT sensor is connected, your map and tps sensors are not cross connected, your IAC valve is tightened and connected. Then report results!


It was running like a champion! I used to beat the hell out of it honestly. Poor car haha. I fully rebuilt the engine. I'm talking H beam rods, ycp 75.5mm pistons, king bearings, ported and shimmed oil pump, head is fully built except the cam. Cometic head gasket 30 over. More than I can think of off the top of my head!


I checked the injectors to make sure they are firing correctly. They were fine. I also made sure they are seated properly. MAP sensor is good, TPS is fine, IAC valve though, ill have to check that one. I will let you know! Thanks mate.
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Old 08-03-2018, 08:20 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WinkleStinkle View Post
It was running like a champion! I used to beat the hell out of it honestly. Poor car haha. I fully rebuilt the engine. I'm talking H beam rods, ycp 75.5mm pistons, king bearings, ported and shimmed oil pump, head is fully built except the cam. Cometic head gasket 30 over. More than I can think of off the top of my head!


I checked the injectors to make sure they are firing correctly. They were fine. I also made sure they are seated properly. MAP sensor is good, TPS is fine, IAC valve though, ill have to check that one. I will let you know! Thanks mate.
What engine management are you using? Also; stock injectors or?
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Old 08-17-2018, 04:57 PM   #9 (permalink)
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What engine management are you using? Also; stock injectors or?
He using a P06 ecu that's the problem. Need a P28!!!
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Old 08-17-2018, 04:58 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I meant P08
oops
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Old 08-18-2018, 05:28 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by kenny6 View Post
He using a P06 ecu that's the problem. Need a P28!!!
Negative. I'm running a VTEC converted P06 on my Z6 right now. I ran a P28 in my B7 with no problems either, other than a mil for VTEC. I did that while I was installing the Demon board in my P06. Anywho...

There's something squirrelly going on, and I feel it is tune related.
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Old 09-25-2018, 04:53 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Bringing it back from the dead, did you ever get this figured out? I'm curious what the issue was and what your afr's were when you got the O2 set up
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coolant leak, d16z6, idle issues, turbo build

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