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Old 04-26-2018, 05:27 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default D16 Rebuild/Refresh in progress - questions

Hi all, so pictures below, but I've started taking apart a D16A6. Plugs were slightly wet and very black, and the engine was misfiring. Plan is to replace anything that needs replacing, possibly upgrade pistons and rods, but maybe not, and add a turbo, all for as cheaply as possible.

- In the pictures below, to me, the cylinders look OK, the rings seem to be seating properly (they'll be replaced anyway), but I don't see any particular reason to do too much with the cylinders. Just hone?
- Pistons have a lot of carbon buildup, I noticed cylinders 2-3 have spots without carbon while the other two are pretty solidly carbonized. Anything I should be reading into that?
- My expectation is that I'll have to take apart the head, and maybe replace some valves and seals. Anything else I should look at carefully?

I'm totally new to the D16 and any tips or tricks are welcome. Absolutely everything I can, will be DIY. If I need to take it to the machine shop for something, then I want to make sure it's absolutely necessary.

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Old 04-26-2018, 06:40 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Valve guides should probably be replaced and you can soak those pistons to get them clean after you take them out of the block.
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Old 04-26-2018, 07:22 AM   #3 (permalink)
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New guides, new valve seals, measure the valve stems, replace the exhaust rocker shaft, clean all the rockers in a parts dip, pay attention to the rocker arrows when re-assembling.

You may be able to get by with a hone and re-ring. Difficult to see the cylinder wall condition from my phone.
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Old 04-26-2018, 07:47 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kyngfish View Post
and add a turbo, all for as cheaply as possible.
How many miles are on the engine?
Before I remove the valves, I would position the head where I could pour paint thinner into each port and see if the valves leak. I would wait 3 minutes.
If this is the engines first rebuild, the valves have been hammering into head and the seat is wide. If you lap the valves the seat width is going to be wider.

I would disassemble the heads and bring them to a engine machinist to get his opinion. Do not bother him if he is busy. A good 3 angle valve job will really help.
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Old 04-26-2018, 10:15 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paterico View Post
You may be able to get by with a hone and re-ring. Difficult to see the cylinder wall condition from my phone.
The guy who sold me the engine said he suspected a bent valve was causing a misfire, so I'll know better when I disassemble the head, but I was projecting replacing one or a few of the valves.

The cylinder walls look clean and smooth, I didn't see any scoring, but I'm not an expert.

I don't need the engine to be reliable for another 100k miles. It's being used for a small race sometime this year, but I do need it to be good enough to manage the 225-250 hp we are projecting with a turbo.
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Old 04-26-2018, 10:16 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by markl View Post
How many miles are on the engine?
Before I remove the valves, I would position the head where I could pour paint thinner into each port and see if the valves leak. I would wait 3 minutes.
If this is the engines first rebuild, the valves have been hammering into head and the seat is wide. If you lap the valves the seat width is going to be wider.

I would disassemble the heads and bring them to a engine machinist to get his opinion. Do not bother him if he is busy. A good 3 angle valve job will really help.
I'll check for leaks, thanks. This should be the first rebuild. I believe the engine had around 160k miles. but maybe more.
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