Are my piston rings still oily? Low oil no spinny two yrs - D-series.org

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Old 03-07-2018, 07:15 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Are my piston rings still oily? Low oil no spinny two yrs

Most of the oil is performance/racing oil concentrate additive for break-in 70/30 mix with Lucas break in oil
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Old 03-07-2018, 07:59 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If you’re worried about it not being lubricated, just pull the ECU fuse and crank it for 10 seconds or so to get the oil passages primed.
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Old 03-08-2018, 08:03 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Dude go read the page about starting up old tractors. I've gotten motors that haven't turned in 30 years to run with his methods and patience. But dang if I can find it so I'll summarize in my ramble.

You need lube on lots of places and it takes patience. Hit the cylinders w marvel mystery oil and don't hit it w a starter til it spins easy by hand and has soaked a few days. If it's stuck and won't rotate, soak the cylinders w pb blaster or similar and soak overnight. I've spent most of a week just spraying, waiting, soaking and spinning.

Change the oil.

Remove the cam and coat it in oil, reinstall. But that's ohv. On ohc I'm sure u can soak the lobes from the vc. Then hit it w a preluber.

Idk if they even HAVE those for our cars, so I'd probably pull power to both fuel and ignition, relieve fuel pressure, and spin on the starter til oil pressure hits the gauge hard or your oil light goes off for ten seconds. Now start the fu**er up.

Idk if synthetic/special oil is what you want though, are you fully broken in? I'd just use plain old oil, a little friction is good no?

Switch back to the good stuff after a few thousand miles.

On another note, break in oils are bogus imo, and there's like a 10 page rant and tests of oils to back up that rant which explains what's up w what makes an oil appropriate for break in or really, for any use. Great info, like tests at different temps and stuff. It's a LONG read. Worth it though

https://www.google.com/amp/s/540ratb...t-ranking/amp/
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Old 03-09-2018, 01:34 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Lets make it far more simple and straight forward.

Pull spark plugs, dump a few ounces of ATF down each cylinder. Let it soak overnight.

Next morning, open oil cap and drain plug, and pour 2 quarts of cheap oil through the motor.

install drain plug, throw 4 quarts of fresh 5w-30 in there, unplug the distributor and remove ecu fuse, and crank it over for 10-20 seconds with the plugs STILL out.

EDIT EDIT turn the motor over by hand with a socket the first few times so you dont hydrolock the motor with the ATF /EDIT /EDIT

Once ATF is done spraying out, engine will be primed. put fuse back in, plug distributor back up, and take it for a short drive after it reaches operating temp. Dont drive it cold this first time.

If the oil pump is healthy and bearings are healthy, you wont have any issues scrubbing the camshaft unless it is a massive high lift long duration cam. That would be the only time Id really expect partial disassembly and the use of assembly lube to be worth while.


These are not huge heavy iron blocks that may have gotten a bunch of surface rust inside.
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Old 03-19-2018, 07:04 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Word, but make sure it's high quality conventional oil nothing synthetic til ur sure the rings are sealed up good If that's initially a concern
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