Engine Brake in oil Additives? Zinc? - D-series.org

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Old 03-01-2017, 08:24 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Post Engine Brake in oil Additives? Zinc?

I currently got my motor running and was wondering if anyone has ever used engine barke in oil additives. My machinist gave me a bottle of comp cams 159 engine brake in oil additive. He also told me he recommends this such as Zinc because it helps with braking in the cam valve trains as well as easier to seat rings and good for the motor. I currently ran this bottle with regular 10w30 conventional oil. He told me that I can run this full at regular 3k miles brake in and then just use regular oils after that.

I see why not did anyone ever used this additives?
im in need to change my oil after first 500 miles soon.
my question is that how is using the Lucas racing zddp Tb Zinc-Plus engine oil additive good too?
My machinest ordered the comp cams brand online because they don't have them in stock here. I will change the oil at 500m but I already bought
another engine brake in Zinc-Plus additive?
can I use the Lucas brake in oil additive or I have to use the same brand Comp Cams brake in bottle?
I will do this after the first 3k mile mark.


Anyone has used these brake in additives with success?
This is my first time running a built moor and building it in a while and I also heard a crap load of theory and stuff on how to brake in a motor but this time I will try use these product?

so first oil change I use comp cams brake in oil additive w/10w30
next 500 I will use lucas racing zddp tb zinc-plus additive brake in w/10w30
then next 1000miles
first 3k I will use regular oil.?
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Old 03-01-2017, 09:41 AM   #2 (permalink)
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From what i learned is its acually more about the intervals at which you change the oil, for the break in. If it was me, Id put some regular oil in, whatever viscosity you plan on using let it idle for about 15-30 min. to circulate the oil through the filter to pick up any debris, dirt, carbon, metal ex. then i would drain and change the filter. Then id drive it about 1k miles while trying to encorperate driving steep hills to altering load on the engine from light to medium and some breif heavy, and then after 1k-1.5k miles id say it safe to take it to redline. Change the oil after the 1k interval, then after that you can do your regular intervals. You can run a zinc/Phosporus addative in your oil but is not necessary. Delo and Rotella t6 are high zinc/Phosporus oils that are on the cheaper end of the spectrum that many track guys use. The only downside to these oils is that the extra minerals cause the oil to get darker faster, and will harm your O2 sensor and Cat over time. I Like Rotella t6, ive used it in many of my cars such as my 500hp bpu supra and in my old 215hp type r swapped integra both great cars i miss dearly.

Hope this helps, i work at a japanese shop and have built alot of motors and you would be surprised how much things dont really matter. Im getting technical with you on oils and break in if done by the book, and everyones book differs, but when i build a motor at the shop for a grocery getter i just put oil in the dang thing and tell the customer to come back in 3k. The motors usually go 150k, its not about the oil so much as how you built the motor and the big picture.

Best of luck

Last edited by Pez; 03-01-2017 at 09:47 AM. Reason: wording
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Old 03-01-2017, 10:04 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Old 03-01-2017, 10:09 AM   #4 (permalink)
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this is one of those "many ways to skin a cat" kind of scenarios.

i say do some searching its been covered all over the place.
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Old 03-01-2017, 12:01 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thats some good info
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Old 03-01-2017, 02:05 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I'm planning to use comp cams breakin oil for my first two changes. $65 for a case of 12qts on amazon seemed pretty cheap for that little extra assurance everything will be happy as it wears in.
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Old 03-01-2017, 03:41 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Did you completely rebuild the engine?

If not, then just use good quality engine oil and change it and the filter frequently, especially after the start.
If so, as posted above, change even more frequently and remember to check the magnetic sump plug, if fitted.

Either way, the additives your machinist recommends won't hurt, but I have my doubts about them being necessary for the valve trains.

Just be gentle on the thing until you're happy the oil is staying clean.
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Old 03-01-2017, 03:45 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Instead of using the additive why not switch over to a oil that has a higher zinc content. Brad Penn oil comes to mind because I find it in stock at most auto values, its cheap, and high on zinc.
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Old 03-22-2017, 06:16 AM   #9 (permalink)
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But is there any evidence that it's actually true? I am going to be breaking in my engine within a month.
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Old 03-22-2017, 08:43 AM   #10 (permalink)
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https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/ is a great read. The engineer who did that states that zinc content is a myth.

I have always used a normal mineral base oil for break in usually straight 30 weight for initial warmup while i test for leaks etc, then after that i change oil and filter to a better quality oil and change it again at 1k basically following the mototune usa methods. While i have not compression tested my current engine, after about 30k miles it can still pull plenty of vacuum, indicating to me it is a tight engine, and power has been outstanding.

After reading the article I posted above I have also switched to the 5w20 quaker state ultimate durability in the gold bottle in all my cars, with no additives.
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Old 03-23-2017, 07:21 AM   #11 (permalink)
 
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Current oil for production cars is low in zinc for emissions purposes. That is why most switched to roller rockers. High mileage oil has the original zinc content as do performance oils (note that Torco has low and high zinc content oils, high content is noted with an R in the name of the oil).
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Old 03-26-2017, 09:14 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Great info,thanks!
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