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Old 11-30-2016, 05:58 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Hi all,

After a couple of hours research, om getting more and more confused.
There is all kind of mixed information About Remove or not removing oiljets.
Its a d15b7 with a d16y7 head swap.

Should i remove the oiljets out of the block, or leave it there in place because its a non vtec to non vtec head swap.

Tnx in advance
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Old 12-01-2016, 11:45 AM   #2 (permalink)
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There are no oil squirters. If you're talking about the oil control orifice, it stays in for non-VTEC.

Last edited by Aquafina; 12-01-2016 at 11:59 AM.
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Old 12-02-2016, 03:56 PM   #3 (permalink)
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ok

after hours of searching I found out that: when swap for a y or z head you have to remove the oil restrictive orifice from the block.
this is because the y or z head, already has an orifice in them.

so I took out the orifice from the block(d15b7) and torque the head d16y7) to specs.

after the engine was started and idling the oil light kept blinking and than stayed on.

I took the engine off and disconnect and reconnect the oil pressure switch plug.

after the second attempt for starting, it did the same with the oil light....blinking and stayed on.

any one with this particular issue??
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Old 12-02-2016, 05:06 PM   #4 (permalink)
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search. read. evaluate.
https://www.d-series.org/forums/engin...16y7-head.html
https://www.d-series.org/forums/engin...questions.html
1.What the exactly is a “mini-me”?
A “mini-me” is an informal name for a D-Series SOHC VTEC head mated to a D-Series SOHC non-VTEC block. Most mini-me swaps consist of Y8 or Z6 heads onto USDM D15B, A6, or Y7 blocks. JDM D15b VTEC heads will work as well
2.Why should I do a mini-me swap?
I chose to do a mini-me swap after reading up on them and hearing that they put out a fair amount of power for how cheap they are. It is widely believed that this combination, with a thin Y8 head gasket, will produce a near 11:1 CR. However, after calculating the compression using the d-series compression calculator, I only came up with 10.1:1. To bump the compression a few more tenths, you can remove the middle layer from the Y8 head gasket. Theoretically, a stock mini-me with a Y8 head gasket should put out about as much power as a Z6, give or take a few horses. The raised compression makes up for the difference in displacement.
2.Okay, what parts do I need to buy?
For a Z6 mini-me swap you’ll need four basic things: a Z6 cylinder head (including valve cover, distributor, spark plugs, spark plug wires etc), Z6 timing belt, Y8 head gasket (Z6 works well also, but Y8 is a better, metal gasket) and P28 ECU (make sure you get an auto ECU for an auto, manual for manual).
IMPORTANT;Several places on the net and several people on Honda-Tech say that the VX (D15Z1) timing belt is the one to use for this swap because it is for a 1.5L VTEC. THIS IS INCORRECT! When I did the initial head swap, I used a VX timing belt. timing belt was WAY too tight, and whined when the engine was at high rpm. I unfortunately did not discover this until the entire head was assembled. The VX timing belt has 103 teeth, where as the Z6 timing belt has 104 teeth, and the B7 belt 106 teeth. I was finally able to replace the VX timing belt with the Z6 timing belt, and the Z6 timing belt fit much better and didn’t whine.D16Z6 timing belt is the correct belt to use with a B7 block / Z6 head combination.
Note also:The Z6 and B7 spark plug wires are NOT interchangeable. You will need Z6 spark plug wires with this swap.96-00 Civic HX spark plugs are a bit colder than the Z6 and will work better with the higher compression.
You can use your stock intake and exhaust manifolds with the mini-me. All d-series manifolds are interchangeable. However, both the Z6 intake manifold and header flow much better than the D15’s…so if you can pick them up for a real cheap price, then definitely go for it. In addition to the main things, you’ll need little things, coolant and wire (to wire the VTEC solenoid and oil pressure to the ECU).
I wanted to make sure that the swap ran perfectly once I got it running so I picked up a few general maintenance things as well, such as a new distributor cap and rotor, new water pump, new spark plug wires, and a new valve cover gasket.
List of Parts:
Z6 Cylinder Head (Including distributor cap, valve cover, plugs/wires, VTEC solenoid, etc)
Z6/Y8 Head Gasket
P28 ECU
Z6 Timing Belt
Wire and plug for VTEC oil pressure switch
Optional:
Z6 Intake Manifold
Z6 Exhaust Manifold
*If you remove your manifolds, make sure you get new gaskets
Recommended:
NEW OEM
Water Pump (for the block you are using)
Spark Plugs (HX Y5)
Spark Plug Wires
Valve Cover Gasket
Distributor cap and rotor
I spent about $550 total when all was said and done. I paid $200 for the head, and $85 for the ECU. Random stuff kept adding up after that. $550 is comparable to a full Z6 swap, but remember this included a new timing belt, head gasket, etc.
3. What tools will I need to do the job?
Well,95% of the job can be done with a 3/8 inch ratchet, 10-19mm sockets, and a set of screwdrivers. However, you will need a torque wrench so that you can torque the head bolts down correctly, and you will also need access to an air wrench when you do your timing belt to get the crank pulley off. You will also need wire cutters, and some electrical tape for the wiring part.
4. Okay,I got all of the parts and tools, now how do I swap the heads?
Alright first what you’re gonna need to do is remove the cylinder head.
Here are the step by step instructions on how to take your head off(Taken from helms. I recommend you have the actual manual in front of you because it includes detailed pictures and diagrams)
1.Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
2.Drain the coolant.
3.Relieve fuel pressure (take the gas cap off)
4.Remove the air flow tube (intake)
5.Remove the fuel feed hose and charcoal canister hose from the intake manifold.
6.Remove the throttle cable at the throttle body.
7.Remove the throttle control cable from the throttle body (A/T only).
8.Remove the fuel return hose and brake booster vacuum hose.
9.Remove the engine wire harness connectors and wire harness clamps from the cylinder head and intake manifold (Basically any hose or plug that’s connected to the intake manifold or head, needs to come off)
10.Disconnect spark plug wires at spark plugs and remove them from the distributor.
11.Remove the engine ground cable on the cylinder head cover.
12.Remove the power steering belt and pump (Do NOT disconnect the hoses)
13.Remove the power steering bracket (4 bolts)
14.Remove the emission vacuum hoses and water bypass hoses from intake manifold assembly (included in step 9)
15.Remove the radiator upper hose and heater hose from the cylinder head (included in step 9)
16.Remove the water bypass hose from the thermostat housing.
17.Remove the intake manifold bracket.
18.Remove the self locking nuts and disconnect the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe A.
19.Remove the exhaust manifold bracket.
20.Remove the PCV hose, then remove the cylinder head cover.
21.Remove the timing belt upper cover.
22.Loosen the timing belt adjusting bolt 180 degrees to release the belt tension.
23.Push the tensioner to release tension from the timing belt, then retighten the adjusting bolt.
24.Remove the belt from the cam pulley (gear)
25.Remove the cylinder head bolts, then remove the cylinder head (loosen bolts starting from the outside, then coming in
VERY IMPORTANT:If you have a D15 block (or any D-series block with an oil jet for that matter), you need to make sure that you remove the oil jet between cylinders 2 and 3 when you do this swap. If you don’t, you won’t have VTEC. I forgot to pull the oil jet out the first time. You won’t get a code, your ECU will say your solenoid is fine and everything is working great but VTEC will not actually engage. Make sure you remove the oil jet. I took a screw, screwed it into the oil jet, and then pulled it out with a pair of pliers.
You take the oil jet out by driving a screw in, and then yanking it out with a pair of pliers:
After you’ve pulled the oil jet, you’ll need to sand down the block surface so that no gasket is left caked on the block. (You won’t have to worry about this anymore because hopefully you’ll be using a Y8 metal gasket). If you get shavings in the cylinders, then fill the cylinders with warm soapy water and float the shavings out. You’ll do this by turning the crank over a few times with a 17mm until all the water is out. Make sure that there is NO liquid in the cylinders or head bolt holes when you put the head back on (If there is, you can crack your block when you torque down the head bolts). If you are using the manifolds from your stock motor, all you’ll need to do is unbolt your intake manifold (with throttle body) off of your old head so that you are ready to put it on the Z6 head. It’s only 8 bolts.
Now, let’s put your new head on (Taken from helms. I recommend you have the actual manual in front of you because it includes detailed pictures and diagrams):
NOTE:You can reuse your B7 head bolts with the Z6 swap…they are the same size
Always use a new head gasket
If you are using your old intake manifold with the new head, make sure you use a new intake manifold gasket, same goes for throttle body. If you removed it, you need a new gasket.
Cylinder head and engine block surface must be clean (no water or dirt…even in the head bolt holes)
Turn the crankshaft so that No.1 piston is at TDC.
1.Install the intake manifold and tighten the nuts in a criss-cross pattern in 2 or 3 steps, beginning with the inner nuts.
2.Install the exhaust manifold and tighten the nuts in a criss-cross pattern in 2 or 3 steps, beginning with the inner nut.
3.Install the exhaust manifold bracket.
4.Install two dowel pins, head gasket, and cylinder head
Apply clean engine oil on the bolt threads and washer contact surface
Always use a new cylinder head gasket
Turn the cam pulley to TDC before installing
5.Install the bolts that secure the intake manifold to its bracket but do not tighten them yet (optional, I decided not to do this because the intake manifold bracket is a bitch to get to)
6.Tighten the cylinder head bolts in two steps, working your way from the inside bolts to the outside bolts.
Step 1:22 lb ft
Step 2:53 lb ft
7.Install the exhaust pipe A on the exhaust manifold.
8.Tighten the bolts for intake manifold bracket (again, optional)
9. Install the exhaust pipe A on its bracket
10.After the installation, check that all the tubes, hoses, and connectors are installed correctly.
11.Adjust the valve timing.
12.Apply liquid gasket to the head mating surface of the number 1 and number 5 or number 6 cam holder then install the cylinder head cover(you can neglect this because you need to leave it off for the timing belt install)
13.Install air intake.
14.Fill radiator with coolant.

Last edited by slo_eg8; 12-02-2016 at 05:53 PM.
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Old 12-02-2016, 05:53 PM   #5 (permalink)
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nice spoon feeding noob
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Old 12-02-2016, 06:01 PM   #6 (permalink)
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nice spoon feeding noob


i saved you the hassle. bahaha





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Old 12-02-2016, 06:03 PM   #7 (permalink)
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you must not know me very well.
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Old 12-02-2016, 06:07 PM   #8 (permalink)
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in fact i dont know you at all, might as well post so i can get the ability to use the marketplace when needed.
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so what youre saying is youre post whoring? noted. *off to fix things*
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Old 12-02-2016, 06:37 PM   #10 (permalink)
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so what youre saying is youre post whoring? noted. *off to fix things*
helping, not whoring
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Old 12-02-2016, 06:53 PM   #11 (permalink)
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POPCORN anyone?
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Old 12-03-2016, 02:27 AM   #12 (permalink)
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guys ive already read all that information on the net before beginning with the head swap.

Its NOT a minime
D15b7 block with an D16y7 head(non vtec)

I also 've been told to treat it like a minime swap, because of the y7 head.

we are talking about spoon feeding, but I did not notice anyone talking about the issue I got (oil light blinking)

recap:
oil restrictive orifice is out of the block.
torque to specs
mechinical timing is done
car fire nicely up and run smooth (chipped p06 ecu)

only issue is that the oil light keep blinking and stayed on after a while.

Any healthy input?
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Old 12-03-2016, 07:43 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Lets make it very simple.

if you have an oil restrictor in the block, LEAVE IT ALONE if NOT vtec.

remove only IF going vtec.


If its out, pull the head back off and throw it back in.

you will only be out coolant, oil, and a head gasket. Possibly an exhaust gasket.

ziptie the timing belt to cam gear, unbolt cam gear so you dont have to fuck with timing
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Old 12-03-2016, 12:51 PM   #14 (permalink)
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problem solve.

the oil restrictive orifice must stay in place when doing this head swap.

head is 0.030 milled for a mild compression increase.

car pulls great through rpm range.

tomorrow I will do a little bit of street tuning to get the job done.

tnx for all the input guys.

a special tnx to mattliston
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Old 01-30-2017, 06:35 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Dude really? That's like opposite what all those linked posts above say! Damn Internets

I have a y8 head and a y7 head and ill be damned if i can decide what to build . Lots of hondas blow up, im not tryna be one of em so im following this, keep us updated
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So when my y8/hybrid notec head build is done, will I need to remove the jet? Being it is a vtec head, but will not be using oil pressure to activate vtec im leaning to no.

But if i go w the y7 it stays though as op found. correct?

Some of the linked material contains contradictory information and should be reviewed by admins, edited, or removed.
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Old 02-03-2017, 09:33 AM   #17 (permalink)
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you mean like Y7 guts thrown into a Y8 head?

Use an air compressor and squirt some air into the oil feed of the head where that plug/jet would feed.

If it comes completely out of the solenoid mounting location, you can leave the jet/block plug in place.

If honda decided to dual feed (solenoid AND camshaft) you will want to remove that plug and simply block off the vtec solenoid location, as the head may be still designed to do overall valvetrain oiling from that location.


If I were in your shoes, I would treat the assembly as a vtec head, and simply mount a vtec solenoid up, and leave the electronic part of it unplugged. That would be the safest route to take.

It is rare to convert a vtec head to non-vtec, so that is why info is rare and sparadic at best.

If you go with the Y7 head, you can leave the jet plug inside the block.
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Old 02-03-2017, 09:43 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Thanks for that great explanation of how its set up. I completely understand now.
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Old 02-03-2017, 02:45 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Why is it so rare when it seems to be the most kick ass head build possible in terms of utilizing quench, cam size and compression?

I figure my plan to just swap in a cam and upgrade the intake manifold short term is giving up 15hp vs that head build even with no port work

I cant wait to hear more about this guy's y7 head combo and have been looking into that as an option that may not require servicing the motor as intensively. The y8 head specs to almost 11:1 on old rings.

A y7 head can be near stock compression w a thick hg right? Might not destroy rings as readily
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Old 02-03-2017, 06:17 PM   #20 (permalink)
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most kickass?

the z6 head cam hold the same cams as a y8, and the square chamber is of minor improvement.

an older PM3 head (d16a6/d15b2/7) has the ability to get the largest cams of all D series, and that same head can be shaved the most for quite a bit of compression.


a y8 head with y7 guts is merely a great notec setup with no aftermarket parts.

head slicing is king!!!!!
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Sometimes, the difficult path is the easiest path
D/B/F/H/K compression questions?

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