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Old 09-08-2016, 11:26 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Input on engine build specs.

Im researching for the build id like to do over the winter. I know the list is not 100% complete and there will always be small little things that come up.
Car: 1993 Civic 4door d15b8.
Swapping to: D16Z6.
D16Z6 BUILD
BISIMOTO 2.4 TURBO CAM-$479.99
CAM GEAR-$99.99-blox (realstreet)
FERREA 6000 SERIES VALVES-$260.00 (REALSTREET)
TITANIUM SPRING AND RETAINER SET-BISIMOTO-$335.00
TOP END COMETIC GASKET KIT WITH MLS HG-$160
SKUNK2 INTAKE MANIFOLD AND 70MM THROTTLE BODY(EBAY)-$380.00
BWR RAM HORN W/44MM EWG ATTCH.-$600
GARRETT T04 TURBO-$3-400
CUSTOM V-BAND DOWNPIPE INTO EXHAUST-$400
EAGLE RODS W/BOLTS-$350 (REALSTREET)
ACL THRUST WASHER -$3.00 (REALSTREET)
ACL RACE ROD BEARINGS-$66.00 (REALSTREET)
ACL MAIN BEARINGS-$92 (REAL STREET)
ARP HEADSTUD-$120 (REALSTREET)
SUPERTECH BLOCKGUARD-$70 (REALSTREET)
WISECO FORGED PISTONS-$520 (REALSTREET)
GATES TIMING BELT-$90 (REALSTREET)
BOTTOM END GASKET SET-$60 (REALSTREET)
AEM FUEL RAIL-$120 (REALSTREET)
FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE-$35 (REALSTREET)
FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR-$132.00
445CC INJECTOR CLINIC INJECTORS PLUG N PLAY-$350 (REALSTREET)
COMP CLUTCH STAGE 4(6 PUCK)-375 FT LBS-$350 (PRESSURE PLATE AND DISC)
COMP CLUTCH ULTRA LIGHT WEIGHT FLYWHEEL(FOR BOOST)-$211. (REALSTREET)
ARP FLYWHEEL BOLTS ($42)REALSTREET.
AXLES??? $490 EACH. REALSTREET
WATER PUMP-EBAY?
P28 ECU-$200
Tune-$4-500
EWG-$300
FUEL FITTINGS-$90
RANDOM HOSES-$70
WIRE-$20
MACHINE WORK-$300
COST OF ENGINE-$200
TRANS-$500 (LSD?)
SET UP CATCH CAN WITH PCV SYSTEM

I know the list is long and i add stuff as time goes on. I already have a boost gauge and if its not listed i am getting a wideband. Any opinions about the list i have made? I would like to made north of 350hp. As long as the tune is from a great tuner will i be fine on the stock sleeves. Is CSS worth the $700 price tag they quoted me?
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Old 09-08-2016, 12:33 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Bisimoto= trash
Valves unnecessary
Block guard unnecessary
Fuel rail unnecessary
Injectors too small
No mention of fuel pump, charge piping, intercooler, oil/water lines/drains.

Sounds like you read a magazine parts list to someone's build and looked at the first parts website you found on google. Do some actual reading as to what people use on their builds and how things work out for them down the road.
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Old 09-08-2016, 12:39 PM   #3 (permalink)
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i do read. I have a walboro 255 already which is why no fuel pump is mentioned. Why is bisimoto trash? Ive read many good things about their 2.4 cam and ive seen the dynos of it outperforming other comparable cams. the injectors were add before i realized that i can obtain more than my hp goal from the build. Ive seen some rc 750s with a good deal on them. They will perform better for my hp goal.
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Old 09-08-2016, 03:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
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if you do read, youll see why people avoid shitty-moto
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Old 09-09-2016, 03:57 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I did some quick reading again. for s and gs. thru probably 15 or 20 posts about the bisi cams. and only 2 bad things popped up. issues with the 3+ level cam clearance, and one guy with an f series cam was ground wrong. So, 90% success rate. Every other thread i rest was nothing but good news. So have you had experience with them? Or are you just basing your opinion on someone else's account of the product?
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Old 09-09-2016, 05:07 AM   #6 (permalink)
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You need to look deeper. Perhaps go back several years. Terrible customer suffice, snapped cams etc etc. Try Comp Cams. Or try calling Colt Cams in Canada. There are better companies that will actually back their product. Don't get the Junk2 manifold. If you're going to use an aftermarket IM, look at Edelbrock. Also, you might want to stay away from a lightweight flywheel if you're going to boost.

I'm blind, did I miss your goal? Is this going to be street driven, track only? Help us help you.
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Old 09-09-2016, 05:25 AM   #7 (permalink)
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It will be street driven and i would like to take it to the track just for fun. Im not expecting a 10 second car or anything great. And taking it to the track would be maybe at most once a month. Other than that, just driving the car for fun. I think a good goal would be 350hp. If it could safely make more without sleeving that would be nice but i think even 350 on a good tune will be pushing it. i have read about the edelbrocks. They seem to get pretty good praise. Like i said, i posted this for opinions and other choices.
For turbo would you stick with a stock weight flywheel? Or do something not so lightweight like a 14 or 15 pound unit.
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Old 09-09-2016, 06:12 AM   #8 (permalink)
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That's a modest goal. You shouldn't need to re-sleeve that block unless the cylinders are in bad shape. And even then, an overbore would be fine.

If you're going to drive this on the street just have some material taken off of the stock flywheel. You're not gonna like letting off the pedal in a turbo car with a lightweight flywheel. Or at least I didn't in my roommates car. Think of this. For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction. You're gonna roast tires from a stop and pick up speed pretty quickly but when you let off the pedal, prepare to eat your steering wheel. lol That may be an exaggeration but it's something to think about. I would imagine the engine won't like the stress on deceleration.

Look up comparisons of the Skunk2 manifold vs the Edelbrock manifold. Most people on here who take their builds that far prefer the Edelbrock.
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Old 09-09-2016, 06:33 AM   #9 (permalink)
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thanks for the input guys. I have read that shaving material off the stock is a bad idea. Even before getting into hondas ive read that with other makes and models. For peace of mind for myself and how cheaply they can be had, id rather buy another flywheel. are valves really unneeded as chris says? And if i were to get another brand of cam, would i need to use a A/M cam gear?
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Old 09-09-2016, 07:35 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Reading and experience are two different things. Try to make friends with people who have done it. There is a member on here who has taken material off of his stock flywheel with no problems. FarmerD

Chris is a very reputable member on here. I've learned A LOT from his posts. When he comes back, he might explain why you don't need the valves for your build. I used to know why but I haven't had a d series in 3 years. It might have to do with how much cfm the z6 he's can flow. In which case, he might suggest port matching your head.

With the axles, you might not need them. Your drive line has to have a weak point. It's gonna be somewhere on that line, differential, axles, a bearing, your flywheel. Making one part stronger is gonna put stress on a, now, weaker part. Just something to think about. You won't need massive $500 axles for 350hp.



Edit: I read through your list completely. I see a lot of items that you can get from site sponsors and members on this forum. Parts that are designed and made in house and not copies of other people's work. Stuff that performs the same or better for a much better price because of less overhead. Looks like you want to spread some cheese around. You should use the search button and use some of the parts on your list as keywords. I'm not gonna spoon feed anymore. I wanna see if you can figure this out. It'll make me smile.

Last edited by BigJnWorldWide; 09-09-2016 at 07:43 AM.
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Old 09-09-2016, 08:09 AM   #11 (permalink)
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the axles were just a thought. After reading, everyeone seems to get advance or autozone rebuilts that are warrantied. I understand having the weaker part. Makes complete sense. The distributor of the product i listed, doesnt mean im buying from them. I wanted a reference as to where i saw them so i can grab part numbers later on if needed. I fully intend to use the classifieds and probably some vendors here.
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Old 09-09-2016, 08:36 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Nice! I think this guy checks out.
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