Sorry if the wording of the title is a bit iffy; here's what I need to know.
I am reworking a D16Z6 head for my del Sol so that I can just swap it on to replace the one on it that is warped and leaking oil (car's currently running fine, just loses a bit of oil out of the corner under the water outlet). I've already gone through it and checked for straightness / flatness and have reassembled the spare head with assembly lube. However, while adjusting the valve clearance, it seems to require a good bit more force to turn over than most of the engines I've worked on.
I am working on the bench with the head sitting on a couple of layers of thick cardboard and turning the cam with a rubber strap wrench on the timing pulley. It seems to be very reluctant to pull through the valve actuation instead of going through the transition smoothly. Is this normal for the stock cam and valvetrain? I've seen it with high lift cams in other engines, but most of the stock stuff I've worked with has been relatively smooth when rotating through the cycle. I'm not holding the head hard against the table and limiting the valve movement against the cardboard; the only pressure holding it on the table other than gravity is the 1/4 turn or so I'm giving the strap wrench (from past experience, I should be able to feel a smooth compression of the cardboard instead of the jerky movement I'm getting).
What I want to know is if this sounds like there is something binding and causing this, or is the actuation I'm attempting to describe here the norm for this head? Everything looks good, it's all torqued to spec and the valves are now adjusted with the head ready to swap. I would just like a little input from some folks more familiar with this engine before I take the car off the road for the head swap/water pump/timing belt replacement, as it is my current DD and I can't really afford for it to be down any longer than necessary. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide!
I am reworking a D16Z6 head for my del Sol so that I can just swap it on to replace the one on it that is warped and leaking oil (car's currently running fine, just loses a bit of oil out of the corner under the water outlet). I've already gone through it and checked for straightness / flatness and have reassembled the spare head with assembly lube. However, while adjusting the valve clearance, it seems to require a good bit more force to turn over than most of the engines I've worked on.
I am working on the bench with the head sitting on a couple of layers of thick cardboard and turning the cam with a rubber strap wrench on the timing pulley. It seems to be very reluctant to pull through the valve actuation instead of going through the transition smoothly. Is this normal for the stock cam and valvetrain? I've seen it with high lift cams in other engines, but most of the stock stuff I've worked with has been relatively smooth when rotating through the cycle. I'm not holding the head hard against the table and limiting the valve movement against the cardboard; the only pressure holding it on the table other than gravity is the 1/4 turn or so I'm giving the strap wrench (from past experience, I should be able to feel a smooth compression of the cardboard instead of the jerky movement I'm getting).
What I want to know is if this sounds like there is something binding and causing this, or is the actuation I'm attempting to describe here the norm for this head? Everything looks good, it's all torqued to spec and the valves are now adjusted with the head ready to swap. I would just like a little input from some folks more familiar with this engine before I take the car off the road for the head swap/water pump/timing belt replacement, as it is my current DD and I can't really afford for it to be down any longer than necessary. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide!