1984 Civic d16a1 limp mode - D-series.org

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Old 11-29-2017, 09:49 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 1984 Civic d16a1 limp mode

I have a 1984 Honda Civic that has a d16a1 swap from an 89 Integra. All the wiring is from the Integra . I replaced and reseated the valves , new MLS head gasket , arp headstuds , and all new ignition system - distributor , wires , plugs , and the car starts and runs but I am throwing a code 4 ( CPS ) and a code 20 (ELD) and the car is cutting rpms at about 3500 and car won't go past about 65 mph . I tried replacing the CPS with one from the junk yard and still have the same problem. Tried a new ecu , same problem still .I've went over all the wiring everything is grounded and plugged in properly , the timing is good .so I was wondering if anyone has had this issue and knows how to fix it . If not I was thinking of going obd1 . Any feedback is helpful.

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Old 11-29-2017, 02:08 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Does your civic even have an ELD?
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Can you provide instructions on how to wire all 4 vtec solenoids in parallel? I would like to hit vtec 4 times as hard, but I'm confused as to how the wiring configuration would look. Thanks
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You link all the grounds, then wire each solenoid into the spark plug wires, that way they hit sequentially as the engine fires. This creates what I like to call asphalt shattering VTEC.
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Old 11-29-2017, 02:45 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Does your civic even have an ELD?
Not sure , all the wiring is from the Integra . I didn't use any of the civics.where is it located on the Integra?

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Old 11-30-2017, 04:09 AM   #4 (permalink)
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In the fuse block.
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Can you provide instructions on how to wire all 4 vtec solenoids in parallel? I would like to hit vtec 4 times as hard, but I'm confused as to how the wiring configuration would look. Thanks
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You link all the grounds, then wire each solenoid into the spark plug wires, that way they hit sequentially as the engine fires. This creates what I like to call asphalt shattering VTEC.
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Old 11-30-2017, 12:15 PM   #5 (permalink)
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code 4 is for the Crank Sensor which is inside the distributor - about the only way to fix it, to keep it from going into limp mode is to replace the distributor

something wrong with the Cylinder Sensor on the end of the exhaust camshaft will throw a code 9 and is usually a wiring problem - the sensor seldom fails

Code 20 is generally caused by a bad alternator - usually failed diodes
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Old 11-30-2017, 12:17 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by rico58204 View Post
In the fuse block.
the under hood fuse block
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Old 11-30-2017, 12:23 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jlicrx View Post
code 4 is for the Crank Sensor which is inside the distributor - about the only way to fix it, to keep it from going into limp mode is to replace the distributor

something wrong with the Cylinder Sensor on the end of the exhaust camshaft will throw a code 9 and is usually a wiring problem - the sensor seldom fails

Code 20 is generally caused by a bad alternator
Alright I'll try a better distributor because I did get a cheap one off eBay so that might be the problem

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Old 11-30-2017, 02:21 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Alright I'll try a better distributor because I did get a cheap one off eBay so that might be the problem

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Fixed!!! It was the distributor , it feels much better now .Thanks for your input.

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Old 12-01-2017, 03:18 PM   #9 (permalink)
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This is how all threads should be. Problem -> suggestions -> solution.

Not some dickhead noob who posts, gets advice, and never returns with the outcome.

Good on ya OP, glad it’s fixed
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