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Old 09-05-2016, 01:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Bad Crank angle sensor?

Running obd1 with p28 and base to match now. I'll put a video up so you can see what's happening. It ran perfect just two days ago, right after I swapped in the new ecu. Now this

https://youtu.be/cGQllDPrYGI

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Old 09-06-2016, 06:17 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Bump. Pleaaase help.
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Old 09-07-2016, 03:53 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Why do you think it's your crank angle sensor??
Are you data logging it to see you values, unless you are seeing garbage values for your crank sensor? I would think it would be something to do with something else, unless you suspect the wiring
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Old 09-07-2016, 04:19 PM   #4 (permalink)
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says its throwing the code for it.


"Would you by chance know what would cause this? The car doesn't start. I posted on the forums, but no uck. Ecu is throwing code 4 for crank sensor. Obd1. Already tried swaping the orange and white wires. Still does this
https://youtu.be/cGQllDPrYGI"
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Old 09-07-2016, 05:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
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bad crank angle sensor probably not at fault.
code doesnt 100% guarentee sensor failure, merely performance of sensor.

jumped timing can cause this code to be thrown.


CHECK TIMING
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Old 09-08-2016, 09:49 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Checked, and fixed. still won't start. But the timing retard wasn't enough to bend valves. I'm at a loss here. Haha. I'm going to check compression later today when I'm off work. But there is literally no reason I should have lost compression. That's just the only thing that it can be. Everything else has been verified. At Least what is necessary to start.
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Old 09-08-2016, 11:06 AM   #7 (permalink)
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compression check is always a great idea
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Old 09-08-2016, 12:13 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattliston View Post
compression check is always a great idea
I'm honestly just gonna ghetto check it though. Hand over the cylinder while someone is cranking. I don't have the money to rent a tool, and the one I have is angled for gm motors...

Do you think that will be sufficient enough proof?
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Old 09-08-2016, 01:31 PM   #9 (permalink)
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no, not at all

you wont be able to tell the difference ebtween 100psi and 200psi of compression

rent a $50 kit at autozone, get your money back when the test is complete. Hell, if you know the guys behind the counter well enough, do it in the parking lot if the store is less than a few miles away


EDIT just yank the distributor plug and carefully remove the 4 injector leads to keep spark and fuel from drowning the motor
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Old 09-08-2016, 03:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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"Obd0 to 1. I checked the mechanical timing. It jumped a tooth. So the stuff in the video isn't happening anymore, but it still won't start. I'm going to check for compression later today. Do you know anything about the aftermarket distributors we use for zcs? The
td-043u Or something like that. I've used two of them now because the first one went out. Are they unreliable?"

check the ecu jumper. no idea what zc you have. you can message me all you want, but its better for more people to help with more info. Im just an asshole, not a know-it-all
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Old 09-14-2016, 10:09 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Compression is good. Im pretty sure the distributor is bad again.. It may have been because of the old p28 I had in there. It was chipped, and untuned. it took out two brand new dizzy's now. but I put a new on in there with the right basemap. I have a 3rd gen zc.
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