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Old 08-10-2016, 10:30 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Interchangeable FPR?

Hey guys! Today I'm going to pick up a fpr, and was wondering if one from a 95 civic 1.6 will work for my dohc zc. I have a chipped p28, and another forum said something about getting the right fpr for the ecu not the engine. I just want to double check before I go spending money everywhere on the wrong parts!
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Old 08-10-2016, 03:36 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Old 08-10-2016, 03:50 PM   #3 (permalink)
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why don't you cross reference part numbers?
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Old 08-10-2016, 04:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by slo_eg8 View Post
why don't you cross reference part numbers?
Because they are different parts. I know the part will fit. I was wondering functionality on cross use. Where as the stock fpr runs at 37psi and the 92-95 civic is 42 psi. But that doesn't account for how it curves. When do I reach threshold for pressure, and does it matter? Haha
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Old 08-10-2016, 10:28 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Old 08-10-2016, 10:41 PM   #6 (permalink)
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it'll work and be within the trimout range for O2 feedback.

there isn't really a curve to speak of on a backpressure regulator like an FPR
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Old 08-11-2016, 11:11 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by shoebox_civic View Post
it'll work and be within the trimout range for O2 feedback.

there isn't really a curve to speak of on a backpressure regulator like an FPR
I'm running a open loop ecu setup. The o2 is deleted. But it's going to be dyno tuned fairly shortly. Will that help?

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Old 08-11-2016, 05:32 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by xXNosjetXx View Post
Because they are different parts. I know the part will fit. I was wondering functionality on cross use. Where as the stock fpr runs at 37psi and the 92-95 civic is 42 psi. But that doesn't account for how it curves. When do I reach threshold for pressure, and does it matter? Haha
That's not really how an FPR works. The point is to reference manifold vacuum so that the effective pressure at the tip of the injector is always the rating (42 or 37 or whatever). There's not really a "curve" to speak of.

But if you're going to tune it it doesn't really matter. The tuner just needs to know what size injectors you are running at what pressure.
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Old 08-12-2016, 09:34 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks for all the info guys. I got everything put back together last night. I cleaned the injectors, replaced the seals, and changed the fpr with the one from a 92 civic. It runs alright. I haven't gotten on it at all just to make sure I don't break down somewhere. Still have to do some regular servicing on the motor before I start to diagnose.
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Old 08-12-2016, 11:34 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xXNosjetXx View Post
I'm running a open loop ecu setup. The o2 is deleted. But it's going to be dyno tuned fairly shortly. Will that help?
why? o2 sensors don't hurt power and will get you better mileage when cruising
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Old 08-12-2016, 01:16 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by shoebox_civic View Post
why? o2 sensors don't hurt power and will get you better mileage when cruising
I Was looking into that actually. I have obd1, and the o2 is a single wire for the signal. There should be a slot on my ecu for it right?

Also, I wasn't the one who decided to get rid of it. The guys that built my harness said it was unnecessary, just like they said I didn't need a map sensor..... Freaking idiots.

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Old 08-12-2016, 01:45 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I don't have either of my o2 sensors in, just a wideband, and it gets decent mpg if I stay out of boost.
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Old 08-13-2016, 09:20 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I don't have either of my o2 sensors in, just a wideband, and it gets decent mpg if I stay out of boost.
Yeah, maybe in the future. Those are like 150 bucks. Haha. I was thinking of just wiring back up my other o2 sensor. It only needs a signal right?
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Old 08-13-2016, 12:07 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Obd1 units switched to a 4 wire o2. Heater control, o2 signal and 2 grounds..

But since you have a chipped ecu, you can disable the heater circuit in the bin and run a single wire 02 with no issues
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Old 08-16-2016, 11:23 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by neubie View Post
Obd1 units switched to a 4 wire o2. Heater control, o2 signal and 2 grounds..

But since you have a chipped ecu, you can disable the heater circuit in the bin and run a single wire 02 with no issues
Well, there's no wiring on my harness for it right now. So does that mean I can just link a wire with the signal port on the ecu? I don't have access to any bin files. I don't have any programs for it.
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Old 08-24-2016, 11:36 AM   #16 (permalink)
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The wires are 2 grounds, signal, and +12v for heater. The grounds are obviously easy, the +12v can be taken from most fused sources, but the signal is iffy. *ALL* Honda o2 signal wires from obd1+ harnesses are shielded. A normal wire will probably work if your car doesn't have much EMI and a decent charging system.

Your best bet is to take the shielded wire off any 1-piece odb2 Honda harness for the VSS, distributor sensors, or o2 - then connecting the shield to a ground wire. They will have extra grey insulation a few inches in from the connector. Accord harnesses are great for this, J-series also.
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