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Old 06-27-2012, 06:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
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First of all I want to say This swap was not my doing I bought the car this way to fix it. The Engine is already in the car so "the hard part" is over which I don't see being that hard.

Now thats out of the way.... Its a 1989 Civic Hatch with a d16a1 swap. The plus is the car runs. (sometimes) It is dumping way to much fuel. Here is what I have noticed with it. The vacuum looked odd when I got the car so I got out the manual and hooked the vacuum up as the 1989 integra fsm says. And it is even harder to start. (I had to hold it to the floor to get it to fire)

So I pulled the Map sensor while its running and little change if anything it smoothed out a little but not enough to mention. I pulled the o2 senor and same thing. I havent had a chance to volt meter them yet as getting the car to idle is a problem when it warms up. I pull the plugs and they are soaked.

I'm coming to a loss at this motor swap. Debating just pulling it and selling it. btw its using a pm6 ecu with a "custom" wiring harness. lol

Any help/advice would be great right now.

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Old 06-27-2012, 06:59 PM   #2 (permalink)
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sorry im of no other help but pics of motor mounts of claimed motor in the car
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Old 06-27-2012, 07:09 PM   #3 (permalink)
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sorry im of no other help but pics of motor mounts of claimed motor in the car
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Old 06-27-2012, 07:16 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Its doable just need to weld up a custom motor mount

sounds like timing is off
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Old 06-28-2012, 07:17 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I kno it's do able that's why I wanna see the pics of motor mounts.
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Old 06-28-2012, 07:30 AM   #6 (permalink)
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in for pics...
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Old 06-28-2012, 07:34 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Sounds like timing, it's easy to check just take off the upper timing cover and check it. Or possibly bad injectors or bad wiring. What I noticed is when you buy a car with a swap epecially in the ED/EF chassis that is a DX/STD with DPFI, the wiring is always hacked up. People forget to switch the TPS wiring around, hook up injectors to the wrong wiring (#1 injector to #3 injector pin at ecu). If I were you, I would get a good wiring diagram and just go through the main wires (TPS, MAP, Coolant temp, injectors, etc...). Wiring is very easy to screw up, but with just a little more time it can be perfect...most people are lazy so we have to deal with it. Is there a check engine light?


I did this same swap, I'll see if I have any pictures of mount. You can just make a bracket from the front of the engine (where it originally attached in the 86-89 integra) to the side so you can bolt the stock mount to. What I did was make a bracket from power steering pump holes on the head and bolted the stock mount to that (not the ideal way).
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Old 06-28-2012, 10:13 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Looks like thats what they did too. Cause the mount is in the original place. but its not an original mount. And thats my plan for today check timing and tps sensor. and as said before I didn't do the work of putting it in so means nothing to me that its there or how they did it.

yea ZC thats what I am afraid of. It could be alot of things as they made their own harness by the looks of it.


http://photobucket.com/d16a1swap

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Old 06-28-2012, 02:23 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Looks like thats what they did too. Cause the mount is in the original place. but its not an original mount. And thats my plan for today check timing and tps sensor. and as said before I didn't do the work of putting it in so means nothing to me that its there or how they did it.

yea ZC thats what I am afraid of. It could be alot of things as they made their own harness by the looks of it.


http://photobucket.com/d16a1swap
In my personal experience, if it's just the engine harness that is hacked up try to pick up a clean harness (the DPFI harnesses are dirt cheap, and try to get the same year). Then just add some wires for Cylinder sensor/Injectors/Injector resistor box then it should be good. I tried to fix harnesses before, but it is alot easier just to start fresh. The last thing you want is for their shitty wiring to break apart when you are driving it...I've been there and it's not fun. Wiring is pretty much the same for the D16A1/ DOHC ZC and SOHC D15/D16, so it's much easier just the keep the engine you got.

After looking at the pictures, it looks like the bracket I made for my engine. I sold it a while ago and they guy said he was going to use it on his civic hatch...small world.
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Old 06-28-2012, 03:09 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Yea I kind of figured a new harness would be best. Ill snap a few pics of their harness before I replace it so you can see how it looks. lol its scarey. Although I do work in a wire harness factory so I could probably repair/remake the crap out of this thing. Just takes time.

Also checked timing in car. and everythings seems good. cams and crank lined up and dizzy seemed ok. I clocked the dizzy a little and it ot a little smoother but nothing major.
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Old 06-28-2012, 03:34 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Yea I kind of figured a new harness would be best. Ill snap a few pics of their harness before I replace it so you can see how it looks. lol its scarey. Although I do work in a wire harness factory so I could probably repair/remake the crap out of this thing. Just takes time.

Also checked timing in car. and everythings seems good. cams and crank lined up and dizzy seemed ok. I clocked the dizzy a little and it ot a little smoother but nothing major.
Is there a CEL? That would help narrow it down. It could also be that the TPS and Map Sensor plugs are mixed around (they are the same type of plug). Try switching them around and seeing if that helps, it's a common mistake. Also take a picture of the IAT and Coolant temp sensor, those can be switched around also. Might as well try a couple things before replacing.
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Old 06-28-2012, 05:12 PM   #12 (permalink)
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No , no cel. and the ecu isn't flashing either. Ill check those sensors you mentioned. Thanks
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Old 06-28-2012, 07:05 PM   #13 (permalink)
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tdaar where you from in Central IN?
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Old 06-29-2012, 11:11 AM   #14 (permalink)
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what ECU do you have? is it chipped? what fuel pressure regulator? what is your fuel pressure even at? what injectors are you running? resistor box??


start with these.
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Old 06-29-2012, 12:18 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Close to Muncie.
PM6 stock as far as I know. stock stock and stock. The whole engine is stock from what I know. Didn't check fuel pressure. Didn't think it would be a factor. Figured the injectors are only going to puch what the ecu tells them to no matter if the pressure is a little high. And if it was low it wouldn't start. Correct me if I am wrong.
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Old 06-29-2012, 12:23 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Close to Muncie.
PM6 stock as far as I know. stock stock and stock. The whole engine is stock from what I know. Didn't check fuel pressure. Didn't think it would be a factor. Figured the injectors are only going to puch what the ecu tells them to no matter if the pressure is a little high. And if it was low it wouldn't start. Correct me if I am wrong.
The ECU tells the injectors how long to open, but it does not compensate durations for rail pressure, so if your pressure is high, then more fuel will push through while the injectors are open, meaning a rich condition (I've run into a hard start situation with a motor due to too much fuel pressure/poorly adjusted FPR, and once the motor did fire, the exhaust fumes brought tears to my eyes because it was soooo rich).

Not saying that is your problem, but just one more thing to check.

GL.
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Old 06-29-2012, 12:50 PM   #17 (permalink)
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The ECU tells the injectors how long to open, but it does not compensate durations for rail pressure, so if your pressure is high, then more fuel will push through while the injectors are open, meaning a rich condition (I've run into a hard start situation with a motor due to too much fuel pressure/poorly adjusted FPR, and once the motor did fire, the exhaust fumes brought tears to my eyes because it was soooo rich).

Not saying that is your problem, but just one more thing to check.

GL.
Ok. Thats about how this is. It starts fairly ok when cold but blows black major smoke and only revs so high. (no tach so don't know how high) and when warms up won't idle with out me being on the throttle a little.

But I will check the fuel pressure now. thanks.
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Old 06-29-2012, 03:01 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Confirm that your IAT and ECT sensors are reading correctly. A low reading from both of them will cause a signifcantly rich condition.

Also check your thermostat to see if it opens correctly.
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Old 06-29-2012, 06:48 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Confirm that your IAT and ECT sensors are reading correctly. A low reading from both of them will cause a signifcantly rich condition.

Also check your thermostat to see if it opens correctly.
They are the same type of plug and I've seen them switched around all the time on swaps. Same with the TPS and MAP Sensors. 95% of the time it's something simple.
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Old 07-19-2012, 06:18 PM   #20 (permalink)
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So Its been a while since I have updated anything here. Well maybe cause I haven't seemed to make any progress. Although I did notice something weird. The spark order. When i was checking the timing the cams are in sync and the crank seemed fine too. the cams lines lined up with both "ups" at the very top and cylinder 1 ( or what I thought was cylinder 1) was at tdc. But when I traced the plug wires back it was cylinder 4 firing. So after looking at the manual some I look online and find this pic timing and dizzy cap order. HELP! - Honda-Tech And that IS NOT how my plug wires are. My 1&4 are swapped and 2&3 are swapped.

I switched the plug wires and it will not even try to start that way. is this picture correct for the d16a1? I am so confused by this.

Also tested the wiring to the map and it checked out. Im going to look locally for a map to borrow to plug in to see if it helps.

Just wanted to give a small update after a big break from the heat and holiday.
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