DIY: Daytime running lights for EK - D-series.org

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Old 05-19-2004, 06:29 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Default DIY: Daytime running lights for EK

For those of you non-Canadians who want Daytime Running Lights on your EK, here it is. For EG/EF and anything else, check your manual for correct wire colors.

Parts Needed
-Automotive relay SPDT(5 point relay)
-"T" Taps w/male spade connectors
-Female spade connectors
-25 amp blade fuse *shown later*
-zip ties *not shown*
-*Optional* Helms manual



Tools Needed
-Phillips screwdriver
-wire stripper/crimper

Procedure
1. Disconnect neg. cable on battery

2. Remove lower dash panel -3 phillips screws and pull down

3. Locate green harness w/light wiring.(white arrow points to it, but hard to see in pic)

It'll have red/grn, red/blue, red/white, white wires going to it.

4. Using two "T" taps, tap the red/grn(parking light) wire and red/white(low beam) wire.

5. Locate the power mirror harness(blue)


6. Using one "T" tap, tap the black wire at the bottom right of the harness.

7. For the main power wire, I rigged up a poor man's fuse harness using 2 female spade connectors.

I cut the wire down the middle and put a female spade connector on each end.

8. Plug one end of the fuse harness into the fuse panel.(red arrow-right next to fuse pulling tool)


9. Find a mounting place for the relay. Then figure out the 3 other wire lengths from the relay to the "T" taps.
The 3 other wires you run will be like this: male spade connector--wire--female spade connector

10. Relay connections(pins are marked)
- 86-ground("T" tap in power mirror harness)
- 85-red/grn wire with "T" tap
- 30-fuse panel
- 87a-red/white wire with "T" tap
- 87-not used, put empty female spade connector on to prevent contact from anything

11. Reconnect neg. battery cable and test. The low beams should come on at key position 2(right before starting).

12. Clean up wiring and mount the relay out of the way.(I used zip ties)


13. Stand back and admire your new daytime running lights.

Check it out! Headlights on, parking lights off! :-rockon:
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Old 05-19-2004, 07:45 PM   #2 (permalink)
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neat stuff
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Old 05-19-2004, 08:24 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Old 05-19-2004, 09:47 PM   #4 (permalink)
 
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Thanks. I do apologize for the crappy pics. My digicam is old school and has been used and abused.
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Old 05-20-2004, 02:21 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Very nice writeup. Question though - doesn't a real DTRL system also include a resistor box to drop the headlight brightness down to 60%?
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Old 05-20-2004, 04:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4drEF
Very nice writeup. Question though - doesn't a real DTRL system also include a resistor box to drop the headlight brightness down to 60%?
Yes it does. The real DRL uses the high beam filament with a resistor box to dim the light. I tried using some radio shack resistors with the high beam, but smoked the resistors. If I ever come across a Honda DRL resistor box, I'll make another attempt. But for now, the low beams work just as well.
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Old 05-24-2004, 10:30 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I actually looked into this a while back. I have a 91 4 door with the JDM front end. It uses 2 H4H bulbs. The outers bulb uses high beam and low beam, but the inner bulb uses on the high beam filament. So - I'm thinking to use the two inner low beam filliments for DRL. I looked up the headlight schematics in the Helm's manual and, from what I can remember, the resistors in the are 1 OHM.
On a 65 watt bulb, a 1 OHM resistor drops the output of the bulb to the equivalent of a 44 watt bulb.

The picture of the DRL resistor box looks a LOT like the injector resistor box, but they have it mounted up under the bumper. I guess that the added air passing over it's heat sinks makes it stay cool.

I believe than an injector resistor box uses 1.5 OHM resistors. I haven't done the math, and I'm not in the mood right now, but I believe it would be something like 35~40 watts with the 1.5 OHM resistor.
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