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Old 04-08-2007, 08:38 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Lightbulb DIY: Rear Sway Bar Installation into a non-Si CRX

here a really good write up taken from www.crxcommunity.com. i would have gotten everything from the original but it's no longer up.
http://www.crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?t=4944

Rear Sway Bar Installation into a non-Si CRX


First off I want to credit JMart for this project. I personally have only had Si models, but he converted a Rio Pink 89 DX to a 90-91 Si, swapping everything but the roof over from his wrecked Si.

So why do you do this? The best upgrade for any front-wheel-drive understeering Honda is a rear sway bar, whether you're adding it or upgrading the stock one. Unfortunately, Honda decided not to include a factory rear sway bar on the non-Si (HF and DX) model CRXs. For some aftermarket bars, you can use the rear tow-hook mounts with an adapter bracket. If you don't want to drop a lot of money on one, or you think an OEM Si sway bar is enough, this is how you can mount it like stock.



Materials and Tools

CRX/Civic Si rear lower control arms

CRX/Civic Si sway bar with brackets

sway bar to lower control arm bolts

sway bar bracket to frame bolts with nuts (use shock top hat nuts)

Grommets to fit the large holes

Electric drill with 3/8" bit and a stepped bit large enough to fit a 14mm socket through

14mm socket x2 and ratchet x2 with extension

jack and stands



Removing the old LCAs

This first part is pretty easy, you need to take out the stock lower control arms. Unbolt them from the hub, the shock, and finally from the car, and pull them out.



Installing the Sway Bar

All CRXs have the holes for the bracket bolts in the frame, but they don't all have the welded-on nuts for the bolts to thread into. A good choice for these is some shock tower (top hat) nuts. These nuts also make good replacements for the nuts that are welded to the frame to hold the lower control arms.

First thing, before you start drilling, empty the trunk of carpet and anything else that could be damaged. Using your 3/8" bit, drill through the floor pan from the bottom. Now you have four holes in the trunk that look directly down to the ground through the frame of your car. Get back inside the trunk, and open each hole up with your larger stepped bit.
You can now drop the nuts down through the top holes, while feeding the bolts up from the bottom. Bolt the brackets up to the car, letting the sway bar end links hang free for now. After installation, use the grommets you got to plug the holes.



Holes in the trunk for the bracket bolts.



Sway bar bracket installed (bottom view), just like OEM

Re-Installing the LCAs

Before you get them in, this is a good time to install new OEM or polyurethane bushings into your LCAs. If you already have some, this might be a good time to grease them up so they won't squeak as much. If you're installing used OEM arms, you may want to clean them up first, at the very least chase all the threads with a tap.

Put the inside end in first, and bolt the arm to the frame of the car. Then swing it up and bolt it up to the hub. Now bolt the sway bar end link to the LCA. Note that the first side will be much easier. To avoid stripping the hole or breaking anything, try to use a jack on the bar or the wheel to line up the bolt as much as possible, and remember to use anti-seize on all suspension parts.



Bolting the LCA to the shock and sway bar...



...and to the hub
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Last edited by krychek57; 02-16-2009 at 08:34 AM.
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Old 04-08-2007, 08:41 AM   #2 (permalink)
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here' more pics of parts and install.






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Last edited by krychek57; 02-16-2009 at 08:35 AM.
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Old 04-08-2007, 11:19 AM   #3 (permalink)
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very useful post!

thanks!
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Old 04-08-2007, 11:40 AM   #4 (permalink)
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if you have access to a welder, you can weld-in some flange nuts upside down in those holes also.

this is how i did my DA sway on my sedan and works great. I wasn't too keen to drillin extra holes in my car
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Old 04-08-2007, 12:18 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I wasn't too keen to drillin extra holes in my car
then tell me why do they make rubber gromet for the holes in the front firewall? you can used them for them too.
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The term stage was created to make mentally slow ppl feel physically fast.

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Old 04-14-2007, 02:48 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Very nice write up. Now I got more "to do" on my 90 CRX Dx... THANKS A LOT! hehe.
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Old 04-14-2007, 03:36 AM   #7 (permalink)
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good info...
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Old 04-14-2007, 07:59 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Very nice write up. Now I got more "to do" on my 90 CRX Dx... THANKS A LOT! hehe.
here's my soon to be in my rex, the whole 90 integra supension, w/90 VW Carrabo rotors, stainless steel lines still in the plastic.


i still need some parts. i have to go and replace the old Integra cailipers, order EBC Red Stuff brake pads, a Fastbrake bracket and ASR frame brace. in the pic you see a 14mm GSR rear swaybar i will be getting a 22mm swaybar.

damd that looks sexy. lol.
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The term stage was created to make mentally slow ppl feel physically fast.

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Old 04-14-2007, 10:35 PM   #9 (permalink)
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dude, the pic just tripped me out... i thought it was upside down for a minute...lol

i didnt know you could rock vw rotors...
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Old 04-14-2007, 11:18 PM   #10 (permalink)
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yEAH remoer thanks for rubbin it man u lucky twat!!!
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Old 04-15-2007, 01:44 PM   #11 (permalink)
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yEAH remoer thanks for rubbin it man u lucky twat!!!
i think you wanted to say milo was you damd pussy and i'll yup. your are what you eat. lol

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dude, the pic just tripped me out... i thought it was upside down for a minute...lol

i didnt know you could rock vw rotors...
yeah it's a big brake up grade. there's a thread on here done by c0nspire (click on the pics cause the forum was hack and you can't see them unless you click on them)about the big brake up grade and lapatx the difference of rotors stock to ITR rotors.

here's threads
lapatx: https://www.d-series.org/forums/showthread.php?t=64296


c0nspire: https://www.d-series.org/forums/showthread.php?t=46079
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1 monkey power = 0.332 hp.

The suspension should always be faster than the engine - BMW

The term stage was created to make mentally slow ppl feel physically fast.

my DOHC ZC - 133.73whp and 108.48wtq (tuned on a Dynojet)
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Old 04-15-2007, 02:33 PM   #12 (permalink)
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awesome write up! now i have to try this!

Last edited by zero_; 04-15-2007 at 02:37 PM.
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Old 11-23-2007, 04:44 AM   #13 (permalink)
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How about I just one up you remoer . . .

Im going to use EG/DC Omni lca's and an EG/DC ASR brace. . . then run a type-ARrrrg bar and call it a day less drilling and more bling. .
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Old 11-23-2007, 06:54 AM   #14 (permalink)
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the st bar fits any dx/hf/si
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Old 11-23-2007, 07:37 AM   #15 (permalink)
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remoer=pimp...rep for u
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