|03-09-2004, 04:29 PM||#1 (permalink)|
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Park your car on a level surface and jack it up as high as you safely can. Put your jack stands in place and lower the car on to them.
Raise the hood and disconnect the negative battery cable.
Spray antisieze, WD40 or the like, on your exhaust manifold nuts, catalytic convertor bolts, and header bolts and nuts. Remove the heat shield on the exhaust header and spray antisieze where the O2 sensor screws into the exhaust header.
Start draining the engine oil and remove the oil filter.
Remove the front bumper.
Air Filter and Exhaust Removal
Remove the air intake box and intake hose connecting to the intake manifold.
Remove the bolts connecting the catalytic convertor to the downpipe taking care not to damage the donut shaped gasket and set aside the bolts.
Unbolt the bracket holding the header to the engine/transmission and at another point midway up the exhaust header assembly.
Remove all nuts holding the exhaust manifold to the cylinder head and unplug the O2 sensor.
The exhaust will come away from the head with a slight tug.
I was able to drop the entire exhaust in one piece once all mounting bolts and nuts were removed.
Preparing the Turbo
Take the 4 studs, part #36, for the exhaust manifold and apply some loctite to the small threaded portion and thread the studs into the exhaust manifold as shown here. Tighten the studs finger tight and then tighten the rest of the way by threading a nut halfway down the stud, then run another nut until it mates with the first nut and tighten the two together. You can now tighten the stud into the exhaust manifold with the outside nut. Take two 12 mm wrenches to loosen the two nuts from the stud without loosening the stud from the exhaust manifold.
Repeat the procedure above with the 3 remaining studs, part #37, that are for the turbo exhaust outlet adapter, part #3, so that it looks like this.
Apply some gasket sealant to both sides of the oil return flange gasket, part #19, and use it when bolting the oil return flange, part #15, to the turbo assembly.
Use either teflon tape or thread sealant compound to thread the oil pressure line, part #10, to the Banjo Bolt, part #11.
Bolt the Banjo Bolt, part #11, with both of the copper gaskets, part #12, to the turbo assembly as shown here. VERY IMPORTANT, make sure that the Banjo Bolt is pointing exactly as shown in the photo or the oil pressure line will be routed incorrectly.
Bolt the turbo exhaust outlet adapter, part #3, to the turbo assembly using the metal gasket, part #27, and the provided bolts. Use NO gasket sealant.
Bolt the exhaust manifold to the turbo assembly using the rectangular metal gasket, part #26. Again, do NOT use gasket sealant.
Wrap the oil return line with thermal wrap as seen here and connect it to the oil return flange with the correct hose clamp. The hose will be cut to fit later.
Mounting the Turbo
On most models, you will need to loosen the mount that holds the AC lines as seen here. Once these lines are loose, the entire turbo assembly and exhaust manifold should be ready to drop into place.
Make sure that the previous exhaust manifold gasket is in good shape or replace it with a new one.
Gently lower the exhaust manifold and turbo assembly into place. It is usually easier if someone pulls the AC lines out of the way.
Once the assembly is in place, tighten the exhaust manifold to the cylinder head beginning with the center nuts and working your way out. Honda recommends replacing the nuts and Greddy provides new ones. The torque specifications are 23 lb-ft (3.2 kgf-m).
Oil Pan Return Fitting
and Tee Connector on Engine Block
Oil Pan removal - Remove all of the oil pan bolts and nuts and just lay them on the floor so you can kick them around your garage floor and lose a few (just kidding). There are a couple of braces that bolt to the engine and transmission and some bolts that secure the flywheel cover. Remove whatever is neccessary to drop the oil pan. The pan will need a bump on the lower portion near where the drain plug bolts in to break it loose from the block. If it doesn't seperate from the block, check to make sure you have removed all the nuts and bolts that secure it.
You should now be able to see where the oil sending unit is. There is a rubber boot that covers the entire sending unit and it needs to be pulled back so you can fit a wrench on the nut at the base. I will admit that the rubber boot on mine split as I pulled it back. Since there are no leaks on the bottom end of my engine, this is not a problem. I don't remember off hand the exact wrench I used to remove mine but I think it was something like a 25mm or larger. You might even be able to use a large adjustable wrench so long as it is larger than 8 inches. Remove the oil sending unit from the block.
Route the high pressure oil line so that it goes from the turbocharger towards the dipstick, in front of the timing cover, and then to the location where you just removed the oil sending unit. The line is critical to the operation of your turbo. Make sure the line isn't resting on the exhaust manifold or other surface that will transfer heat to the line and heat up the oil going to the turbo. You will be using zip ties later on to secure it away from hot surfaces so this will not happen.
Take a plastic, 1 inch, putty spatula to remove the old silicone gasket sealant from the surface where the oil pan mates with the block. Use a sharp pick like tool to gently remove the sealant from out of the oil pan bolt holes. Remove any gasket material from the studs hanging from the block. How you prepare your oil pan and mating surface will be the difference on whether or not you have a leak or not. I have not had a leak yet.
The next step is perhaps the simplest yet most frustrating portion of the install. It is the installation of the brass tee, to the engine block, and then connecting the oil sending unit and oil pressure line to it. There are a couple of straight unions that are 1/8 NPT. The inventory Greddy sends says there are 3 unions, but I had only 2 and only had use for 2. One of the unions is a brass colored and the other is silver. The brass colored one has a flanged end that is going to fit to the oil pressure line. I am not sure if Greddy sends the same color unions for all kits but make sure that the union with the flange is the one used to connect the oil line to the tee. This image is how the finished product should look. Forgive the fuzziness of the photo.
First, wrap the brass union on both ends with teflon tape, or if you prefer, put some thread compound on the non flanged end. Thread the union's non-flanged end into the middle of the tee and tighten it . Put some teflon tape on both ends of the silver union. Thread one end of the union into the end of the tee and tighten it as well. The other end of the silver union is going to be threaded into the block where the oil sending unit was.
Thread the tee into the block with the flanged brass union facing towards the oil line that is coming around the timing cover.
Thread the oil line onto the brass union that is sticking out of the tee. Make sure it is tight.
Wrap some teflon tape on the oil sending unit's threaded portion and screw it into the tee, making sure it is tight too. Again, here is what the finished assembly should look like.
The oil return flange can either be welded to the pan or bolted to it. Welding is the best way to attach it, however, I was doing all of my work late at night and did not have access to a welder.
The oil pan will need to be drilled to allow the return line from the turbo a place to empty into the pan. My oil pan is aluminum and I decided to tap holes into the pan. I got my tap set for 7 bucks at the AutoZone. I also used Loctite and the provided lock washers and nuts for added fastening power for the flange.
The finished return flange will go in the location shown here. Notice that is under the third bolt hole from the end. This does not affect bolting the pan back up to the block. Also, notice the veritcal grooves in the oil pan, the flange is just at the top of these so that it will mate flush with the oil pan surface. It is also in the correct location so that the oil can dump into the pan unrestricted as seen in this photo.
Prepare the surface of the outside of the pan where the flange will go with some fine grit sandpaper. Mark the location of where the flange will go using the flange gasket. Remove the sump pan in the bottom of the pan. Lay some newspaper to catch the metal shavings while drilling the holes for the flange. Drill the 15mm return hole first. I bought a piloted drill bit set specifially for this. If you are going to tap the bolt holes use a tap for which you have bolts that will work with it, be it metric or standard, and so that it will go through the bolt holes on the flange. Make sure that the bolt holes will come out in the proper location on the inside of the pan or you might be drilling into the runners on the inside of the pan.
Clean up all metal shavings that might be in the pan. Remove any gasket material from the oil pan. Apply some new gasket sealant to both sides of the flange gasket. Use Loctite Red on your bolts and assemble the flange to the oil pan with the gasket between the flange and oil pan. I bolted mine from the outside and used lock washers and nuts on the inside of the pan to secure it even more. Reassemble the sump pan.
Clean and dry the mating surface of the oil pan and the engine block.
The following is how I installed my pan. My pan has never leaked.
Run a bead of silicone in the center of the gasket surface on the oil pan, making sure to go around the bolt holes completely. Lay the oil pan gasket in the silicone and run a small amount of gasket material on top of it. Make sure you install the pan within 5 minutes of applying the silicone so that the silicone does not "skin".
The proper way to tighten the oil pan bolts is to finger tighten two bolts on either side of the pan first and then finger tighten the bolts on one end and then the other. I used a 3/8" extension and 10mm socket to do this. Finger tighten the rest of the nuts and bolts. Begin tightening with the middle bolt first and go clockwise completing the tightening gradually in three steps. Torque - 8.7 lbf-ft
Re-assemble the rest of the hardware that surrounded the pan, flywheel shield, mounting hardware, etc.
Mate up the oil return hose from the turbo to the oil return flange. Cut the hose so that it is long enough but not too long. If the hose is too long you will get a kink in the hose and the oil will not flow to the pan. Secure the hose to the flange with the appropriate clamp.
Install a new oil filter and add a good synthetic oil - Mobil 1 or Amsoil.
The piping is probably the easiest part. What I recommend doing is to align the piping as to how it will assemble. Gather all the rubber hose connectors and clamps and pre-fit everything. If you are not going to install an intercooler, C1 pipe goes from the turbo outlet to the right side of the car. You can see it here marked C1 on the end of the rubber hose connector. I used an intercooler so it will likely vary from your installation. The only thing that I did not use is the C2 pipe because the installation of the intercooler replaces it with a different pipe.
The C2 pipe will connect the upper charge pipe, C3, to the lower charge pipe, C1. It will be apparent where the bracket on the C2 pipe connects to. Again, since I did not use that pipe, I am not sure where it connects for certain.
The C3 charge pipe, the pipe that has the BOV flange welded to it and connects to the throttle body, can be a little tricky. It was a pretty tight fit for me but it did fit. Something you might consider is to take some 5/8" hose and make one cut the length of the hose so that it can be used as a rubber bumper on the hole where C2 and C3 connect. The hose can be wrapped around the sheet metal to prevent the charge pipe from scraping against the sheet metal.
parts list from top
1. TD-04 H 15G
2. Exhaust Manifold
3. Turbo Outlet Adapter
4. Down Pipe
5. Air Intake Pipe A-1 (60ø Steel Pipe)
6. Charge Pipe C-1 (60ø Steel Pipe)
7. Charge Pipe C-2 (60ø Steel Pipe)
8. Charge Pipe C-3 (60ø Steel Pipe)
9. Breather Hose 10mm X 400mm
10. Oil Pressure Hose 800mm SUS
11. Oil Pressure Hose Banjo Union, small male / female 10 X 1.24mm
12. Oil Pressure Hose Copper Gaskets
13. Oil Pressure Hose 3-wayT 1/8 NPT
14. Oil Pressure Hose Straight Union 1/8NPT
15. Oil Return Flange Tube (Universal Type 15mm) Turbo Side
16. Oil Return Flange Tube (Universal Type 15mm) Oil Pan Side
17. Oil Return Hose 19mm X 300mm
18. Oil Return Hose Band 19mm
19. Oil Return Flange Gasket
20. Hose 50ø X 70mm
21. Hose 60ø X 70mm
22. Hose Band 50ø Clamp#32
23. Hose Band 60ø Clamp#36
24. Hose Band 10ø Clamp#5
25. 8mm to 8mm Hose Union
26. Turbine Gasket In
27. Turbine Gasket Out
28. Muffler Adapter Gasket
29. Heat Shield
30. Thermo Wrap 100mm X 1000mm
31. Zip Ties 200mm
32. Air Filter
33. Air Filter Adapter 60mm
34. 6mm X 15mm p=1.0 Stainless B. S/W. F/W. N (Oil Return - Oil Pan)
35. 10mm X 45mm p=1.25 Steel Cap B. S/W. N (Down Pipe)
36. 8mm X 30mm p=1.25 Stainless Stud B. S/W. F/W. N (Exhaust Manifold - Turbo) qty-4
37. 8mm X 35mm p=1.25 Stainless Stud B. S/W. F/W. N (Muffler Adapter - Turbo) qty-3
38. 8mm X 35mm p=1.25 Stainless B. S/W. F/W. (Exhaust Manifold - Turbo)
39. 8mm X 70mm p=1.25 Stainless B. S/W. F/W. (Exhaust Manifold - Turbo)
40. 8mm X 15mm p=1.25 Stainless B. S/W. F/W. (Exhaust Manifold -Turbo)
41. 8mm p=1.25 Stainless S/W. F/W. N (Cylinder Head)
42. 6mm X 15mm p=1.0 Stainless B. S/W. F/W. N (Oil Return - Oil Pan)
43. FCU Fuel Controller Unit (Blue Box) w/Harness and connectors
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