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Old 08-05-2019, 07:04 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Crack That Evil Crank Pulley Bolt - W/ Engine Out Of Car

I had a Y8 crank pulley bolt that was giving me hell. So I had an idea -

I jacked the front end of the car up high enough to slide the block underneath.

Then I slowly brought the car down so the block had enough weight on it that it couldn't move. However, the jack was still supporting most all of the car's weight.

*Using the Honda crank pulley tool, I blocked the crank from moving.

*Heated up the crank pulley boly for a minute

*used a big-ass, socket pry bar with a 17mm socket and stood on it.

*CRACK!

So if you're in a pinch, use the weight of one of your Hondas to hold the block in place. You'll just pull an engine stand over if you aren't careful.

**Keep in mind that this threw a rod and I wanted parts off the block. However, if you are careful, you can do this with a block that you plan on using. You aren't really putting weight on the block. You are just using the weight of the car to keep the block from moving.

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Old 08-05-2019, 07:29 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I was about to say did you put anything between the honda and the deck surface, but then I saw the thing about throwing a rod... that is actually a clever trick.

You could also lock the trans in gear and put the tires on the ground when everything was together, then make that the first thing you loosen/last thing you tighten!
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Old 08-05-2019, 07:42 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by drtalon123 View Post
I was about to say did you put anything between the honda and the deck surface, but then I saw the thing about throwing a rod... that is actually a clever trick.

You could also lock the trans in gear and put the tires on the ground when everything was together, then make that the first thing you loosen/last thing you tighten!
That's funny! Good idea!

The plastic from the rocker panel covers did a pretty good job protecting it even though I didn't plan on it.
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Old 08-06-2019, 01:57 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Get a proper airline and fittings and a $40 CH impact will zip the bolt right off.

Size matters....

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Old 08-06-2019, 02:08 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I have no more air tools...or should say my compressor took a major shit on me.
But you are correct. A big, fat hose makes all the difference.

I need to get a new compressor...big time.

But yeah, this could help out a kid in his driveway with no access to serious tools.
This bolt was the most hardcore, stuck-ass crank bolt I've ever dealt with...even
worse than my old B7/ZC build...and that one was insanity.
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Last edited by Nasty_Canasta; 08-06-2019 at 03:19 PM.
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Old 08-07-2019, 06:30 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by drtalon123 View Post

You could also lock the trans in gear and put the tires on the ground when everything was together, then make that the first thing you loosen/last thing you tighten!
been doing this the past couple,,,when I remember that is ..

Last edited by robgoof; 08-07-2019 at 06:32 AM.
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Old 08-07-2019, 05:12 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Ha, that’s one way I’ve never seen before.

Heat works wonders!
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Old 08-07-2019, 08:45 PM   #8 (permalink)
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If you have airtools, this is what practically everyone used back when I was a tech at a Honda dealership.



I just googled an image, since mine is at work in my toolbox. Snap-On makes one I believe. So does Matco, Ingersol Rand, and some other companies as well. It truly does work. Hell, you can even make one by just welding some thick piping to the outside of a cheap socket you don't care about. That's what I did before these were actually produced by anyone.

Basic concept is the extra mass that's further away from the center of rotation gives the impact gun more "leverage" and thus more twisting force. That's my 2 cents on the subject.

Here's a quick video of one in action...

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Old 08-08-2019, 05:54 AM   #9 (permalink)
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This is what I have always used.
Works great if you do not have a compressor.

https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-64.../dp/B0000TMLWQ

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...w83168/4614583

https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...-tool/420315_0
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Old 08-08-2019, 09:08 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Removing crank pulley and flywheel out of car
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Old 08-08-2019, 01:19 PM   #11 (permalink)
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This is the method i've used. Doesn't cost anything, haha.
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Old 08-09-2019, 05:35 AM   #12 (permalink)
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This is the method i've used. Doesn't cost anything, haha.
Seems like this would have a tendency/chance to slip off of the dowel/locating pin if jarred hard enough.
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Old 08-09-2019, 12:04 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I guess if you do it wrong? No side force should be applied to the wrench so I don't know how you can screw that up.
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Old 08-10-2019, 08:43 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Seems like this would have a tendency/chance to slip off of the dowel/locating pin if jarred hard enough.
I have been doing it like that for years. Never had an issue.
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Old Yesterday, 01:21 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Seems like this would have a tendency/chance to slip off of the dowel/locating pin if jarred hard enough.
As long as you've loaded it square on it doesn't move. Definitely better to just buy the cranky pulley tool, but this will work fine in a pinch.
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Old Yesterday, 02:16 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Just found this pic from the depths of my photobucket archive haha.
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Old Today, 06:11 AM   #17 (permalink)
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got torque?
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Old Today, 07:03 AM   #18 (permalink)
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this works great.
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