DIY No Slop Shifter for $14.99 - Lowe's - D-series.org

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Old 07-04-2015, 07:00 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default DIY No Slop Shifter for $14.99 - Lowe's

Hello everyone on DSO and guests.

For the longest time, I've had quite a bit of slop in my shifter. About a 3 inch range of side to side motion when in any gear. This made my 1-2 shift TERRIBLE and made it feel like gear lockout when revving out the car. For $14.99 a friend and I have solved this problem. Can be done in about 30 minutes if moving quickly.
All of my slop was in the U joint near the trans. I am well aware of the no slop linkage that is offered by RCautoworks. But not all of us can drop 130$ on shifter linkage, especially when this does the job for much less and little work effort.

Video of the U Joint that connects to transmission.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BFJHFneGmb4

THE PARTS YOU NEED
1 grade 8 bolt 3/8-16 x 2-1/2 #880190
1 grade 8 lock nut 3/8-16 #883184
2 brass bushings #882995
1 steel spacer zinc 3/8 x 1/2 x 1-1/2 #880418
1 steel spacer zinc 1/2 x 5/8 x 1-1/2 #880421



First remove the linkage off the car.
Next you will grind this rivet off of the linkage.


Next you will insert the small sleeve you purchased from lowe's, into the bigger sleeve.


Push the sleeve into ONE of the brass bushings (takes some effort with a hammer)
We like tight fits with our shifters
Image below shows what the bushing looks like, how it will be in the actual linkage joint part. Do NOT put the bushing together 100%, as one brass bushing with the pin goes into the joint part, then you will press the other brass bushing in.


You will need a punch to put the sleeve into the middle of the brass bushings, as the sleeve is not the full length of two bushings put together. This does NOT effect how the shifter will feel.

To get the brass bushings inside the actual joint, you will need to make this part a 1/2" hole where the original bushings were.


This is how it looks assembled. Notice how the sleeve sits a little bit inside the bushings.




A 3/8" drill bit will be needed on this part of the actual linkage piece that way our new bolt will fit.


SHIFTER after installation!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rt94ztXmJ2U
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Last edited by 95coupeD16y8; 07-05-2015 at 03:45 AM.
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Old 07-04-2015, 08:41 AM   #2 (permalink)
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All you need is a brand new sealed universal joint welded in place of the stock one. Or if you're feeling brave, make your own boot over a cheap UJ and secure it with zip ties and fill it with grease. That's pretty much what RCAutoworks offers. Not knocking their service, just giving some info.
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Old 07-04-2015, 09:31 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Yes I'm aware
Just posting this for those that don't have a welder or may be afraid to cut their own linkage if it's a daily like mine
This is just a temp fix for myself until I can afford the RCAutoworks linkage. This is cheaper than the u joint and requires basic tools to complete.

I seen the diy on crx community about what you're speaking of, and I didn't feel that brave haha.

Last edited by 95coupeD16y8; 07-04-2015 at 09:34 AM.
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Old 07-04-2015, 11:43 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Great job and nice write up, thanks!

Quote:
To get the brass bushings inside the actual joint, you will need to make this part a 1/2" hole.
So did you have to bore out the hole in the original joint in order to fit the brass bushings?
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Old 07-04-2015, 02:13 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I just went to Lowe's and bought these parts, your part numbers made it easy thanks

I don't get why you circled that part and said you need to drill a 1/2" hole. I get drilling the bracket for the 3/8 bolt, but what is drilled 1/2 and where?
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Old 07-05-2015, 03:42 AM   #6 (permalink)
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1/2" hole where the original bushing was at. The brass bushings will not fit without making it 1/2".
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Old 07-05-2015, 10:45 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Cool write up, my shyts sloppy like goose poop. Will do this next time I pull my tranny....phrasing!
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Old 07-05-2015, 02:21 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Seems like this should ideally be done to both halves of the joint. Do you think that it would be worth doing the same process to the portion welded to the bar?
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Old 07-06-2015, 04:47 AM   #9 (permalink)
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This looks almost exactly what I did to my linkage in my build thread but I did both joints and it feels like a s2000 shifter now.

Good write up.
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Old 07-06-2015, 05:05 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Freaking awesome dude, good write up. +Rep
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Old 07-11-2015, 07:41 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Pic of it re-assembled on the car?
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Old 07-11-2015, 06:32 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Pic of it re-assembled on the car?
X2
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Old 07-18-2015, 12:52 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Better have a vice on hand!! Ive got a heavy duty vice and needed to put a breaker bar on the handle to get them to all squeeze together and Im no wimp @ 200lbs. But my god is the shifting ever CRISP after doing this and the hardrace vulcanized rubber bushings all at once.





Thanks again for all the part numbers and doing the leg work OP!
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Old 07-18-2015, 04:54 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I love this.

Kevin, you may want to use a Nyloc nut on that.
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Old 07-18-2015, 08:26 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zer0DazE View Post
I love this.

Kevin, you may want to use a Nyloc nut on that.
I was gonna say the same thing... and maybe a little dab of Loctite as well.... Im def going to be doing this mod... My shifter is a little sloppy
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Old 07-19-2015, 04:56 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Theres a lock washer and blue Loctite, cmon guys, this aint my first day
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Old 07-28-2015, 04:24 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Lolks like ive got something to make at work now. Thanks for the idea +1
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Old 07-29-2015, 02:35 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Great write up
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Old 07-29-2015, 07:18 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Glad you posted this, I have my transmission out of my car at the moment so now's a great time to address the slop with this solution.
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Old 07-29-2015, 06:53 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I think I'm Going to try this with the spare linkage I have. Than do a comparison to the rc one.
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