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Old 03-26-2015, 06:22 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 91 CRX Si D16A6 rebuild question

Okay so I rebuilt this engine with the mechanic I used to work with(35+ years experience). He had me questioning a lot of what he said because of certain circumstances. My question is after I got the rods and pistons in I had trouble turning the crank. We switched out pistons 1 and 3 which helped dramatically but it still catches in one spot when I spin the crank and I'm trying to figure it out without tearing it all back down. Would this be a problem to run? The mechanic said it would but I also don't want to blow the motor. If it isn't okay what should I look for first so I can fix it and get it on the road.

Any help is appreciated
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Old 03-26-2015, 07:06 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Were the bearings plati guaged to see the clearance?

What was the reason for the rebuild?
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Old 03-26-2015, 07:39 AM   #3 (permalink)
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No they weren't bc I was just told to put them in. The mechanic thought it'd be best to.. Not really my choice unfortunately. It started with just getting the head rebuilt
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Old 03-26-2015, 07:54 AM   #4 (permalink)
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you really need to verify your tolerances. Even a brand new engine with no wear and tear will be easy to turn.

pop the oil pan off, yank the mains and rod caps, and look for any smudges or polished areas where it was contacting.

buy a plastigauge kit and make sure your tolerances are close together.

If he had all this experience, and yet swapping things over helped, he is not your guy.

you need to yank the crankshaft out and measure it out. also make sure it is not bent.
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Old 03-26-2015, 08:01 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I figured I would have to do that. Thanks for the advice!
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Old 03-26-2015, 08:07 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Also check the main caps are in the correct order and facing the correct way.

make sure the rod caps are on the correct rod, and the caps are tab to tab.

Check your ring gaps.

Check the thrust washers are facing,correct, and in the proper location and did not tilt on the machined edge of the block.


Was the crank polished or ground undersized?

Did you engine assembly lube/paste/grease? or just engine oil?

35+ years means nothing, It is the attention to detail that will make or break a build.

There are machine shops around mine , and the lead machinist will have 15-20 years more time in, but still has no idea about surface finishes of heads and blocks, or knows when to change hone stones for what rings will be run.

Rip it all apart, wash everything and start back at the beginning.

"It's just a 4 cylinder, It ran before, it'll run again...." mentality
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Old 03-26-2015, 08:29 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Exactly that's why I had a bit of a problem with this mechanic to begin with. We used oil to lube everything up. I'll make sure to double check everything as I'm putting it all back together. It'll be a little bit before I get started on it.. Waiting to move so I have a garage to start on all this
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Old 03-26-2015, 09:07 AM   #8 (permalink)
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You need assembly lube for the bearings and cams, the oil will dry up quickly. Bogus covered alot of the stuff you need to be concerned with. Post any pics of questionable parts. We will help you get this thing going if you pay attention to the details.
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Old 03-26-2015, 09:32 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Okay thanks for all the help and I'll definitely going to keep in touch
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Old 03-26-2015, 09:35 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Beer.. I beg to differ, Assembly lube on flat tappet cams.

But oil works just fine, 30w Non-det, for the bearings, as long as the engine is sitting a month or less.

Oil will also give you more accurate readings when you measure the breakaway torque of the short block once assembled.

The black tube CRC Engine Assembly Lube will about lock up a crank running close clearances.
A gel assembly lube will be better than the paste, like the Melling lube, or the clevite, or the BG chemicals. But those will till raise the break away torque of the short block.

But any engine that is being dropped in, no matter if it was built that day, or been on the stand for 2 years needs to be primed with oil before spark and fuel are added, (best if the spark plugs are still out too)
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Old 03-26-2015, 09:45 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Im not sure if this is going on for you but i know with my d17 rods in a d16 block, there is one rod that tue letters on the endcap the ones casted into the rod will hit the oil gally of the girtle if its in cylinder two or one. The crank wont spin and its in one spot. I can see where it touches the aluminum. I switch it to number four and it has 22 thou clearence. Th casting is shitty. When i place it on a flat table i can measure the difference. But the rest of the girtle is even, like the part you notch for rod bolt clearence.
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