DIY - Getting that stubborn LBJ / UBJ to stop spinning and tighten up - D-series.org

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Old 03-27-2014, 03:07 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default DIY - Getting that stubborn LBJ / UBJ to stop spinning and tighten up

Ive been in this situation far to many times I figured some may benefit from this method. I do this when reinstalling the lower balljoint and upper balljoint, alot of the times when trying to tighten the castlenut, the balljoint just spins in its seat as there isnt enough pressure against the taper for it to suck together.

After you have the lower balljoint through the control arm and put the castle nut on it, or the upper balljoint installed through the knuckle with the castle nut on it. Take a small piece of wood (preferably 2x4) and place it ontop of the UPPER control arm, between the arm and the chassis.



Then take your floor jack and put it under the lower control arm (I use a balled up rag to prevent scratching), then jack up the control arm until it loads the suspension, pushing the 2x4 ontop against the chassis, the balljoint should be able to be tightened without spinning



Sometimes were lucky and the ball joints tighten without this method. But for when they dont, now ya know.
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Old 03-27-2014, 03:13 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I've heard it's actually not a bad idea to tighten all suspension bolts with simulated weight load, but I'm not sure how accurate that is.

I can add a similar sweet trick for popping the LBJ as well.

Jack up the LCA in the same spot, sans 2x4... Then when the suspension is bottomed out up inside the wheel well you'll be able to stick a bar or the handle of a ratchet in between the spindle and the LCA, releasing and lowering the jack slowly with the bar wedged inside that space will usually pop the LBJ.
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Old 03-27-2014, 03:17 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I definitely tighten all bolts under load
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Old 03-27-2014, 03:45 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Its called preloading the suspension components

When I have issues with my LBJ, I always just jacked up the arm as well. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't LOL. So far its worked for my car, my friends car on the other hand, its a 50/50
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Old 03-27-2014, 03:47 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Only bonded bushings need to be tightened under load. Doing ball joints like this is just creating extra work for yourself.

When I come across this scenario I just squeeze the taper into its seat, either with a prybar or my big water pump pliers, then impact it tight.
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Old 03-29-2014, 09:28 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Solid info
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