DIY: Skunk2 Intake Manifold Fix - D-series.org

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Old 11-07-2013, 08:03 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default DIY: Skunk2 Intake Manifold Fix

A common problem with the S2 IM's is the coolant fitting likes to come out. Mine did so during a hard acceleration from 0-100 . I decided to tap the manifold and replace the fitting with a brass one.

Here's what you'll need:

Skunk2 IM
5/8" barbed to 1/2" NPT fitting
1/2" NPT Tap
3/4" Drill
Thread sealer
A new IM gasket if it's installed

It's pretty much straight forward once you remove the manifold. Drill the hole out to 3/4". Thread it with the tap. Tighten the brass fitting with thread sealer applied. Smooth out the manifold flange with a file. Reinstall the manifold. As for the smaller hose that connects to the old fitting, I'll leave that up to you. I spliced in the old fitting right behind the new one since I was short on time. You can buy fittings and make a nice T from brass at the hardware stone if you want.







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Old 11-07-2013, 08:55 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Hmm, the backwards tap makes me feel weird, but IDK how to reasonably do it the reverse way.

I would've put it in with JB Weld..

Although Flip's JB weld that his machinist put in, leaked.

Still I fell it is less perishable.

uhm.

I should post up my valve cover.
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Old 11-08-2013, 06:21 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Cool fix. Now sk2 needs to just make this happen.
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Old 11-08-2013, 06:33 AM   #4 (permalink)
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nice legit fix.
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Old 11-08-2013, 07:39 AM   #5 (permalink)
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On another note after the fix i have no problem getting the hose clamp on.

Being a mechanic i would never use JB Weld for anything! It cost me $4 for the fitting, $13 for a tap & die set, and $8 for a new gasket. I skip the part where you have to think "what if the patch job doesnt hold?". I go straight to the right way to do it and peace of mind


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Old 11-08-2013, 07:44 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Im with toaster. Do you think there will be any problems with having tapped it from the back?
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Old 11-08-2013, 10:14 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Tapping it from the back was probably done because the lack of space to put a tap and wrench from the other side. Tapping the way he did wouldn't cause any problems, its still right handed threads.


Think of it this way: When you put a nut on a bolt, it doesn't matter which way you put it on.
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Old 11-08-2013, 10:46 AM   #8 (permalink)
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But it is a pipe thread...they are tapered...

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Old 11-08-2013, 01:47 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by gtpilot View Post
But it is a pipe thread...they are tapered...

Kirk
I didn't even think of that.

Thou the brass being harder then aluminum and putting thread sealant on the fitting will probably seal it up okay.

Guess we will have to wait for a update lol
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Old 11-08-2013, 01:56 PM   #10 (permalink)
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While the execution isn't ideal it should work well.
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Old 11-08-2013, 04:04 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Oh yea. It looks good. Definitely a legit repair tho.
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Old 11-08-2013, 05:43 PM   #12 (permalink)
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looks good... considering I'm rockin this in my crx it does make me wonder... gotta eliminate all possibilities for failure on the track...
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Old 11-08-2013, 05:46 PM   #13 (permalink)
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NPT is very important to tap the correct way.

So I would edit your post to include that you should tap it from the installation side.

Also what did you do about the missing coolant port?

If you S2 guys can get your hands on the Edelbrock part, it has a T and its an NPT tap just like what you installed there!
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Old 11-08-2013, 05:53 PM   #14 (permalink)
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It looks like he used a short hose to connect to the original pipe. Then reconnected the original hoses back on.
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Old 11-09-2013, 08:50 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Its tapered just to make it easy to remove material until you get to the final correct thread size at the end. I actually did thread it from both sides there was adequate room on the install side. The fitting tightened very well and i am not second guessing my work.


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Old 11-12-2013, 05:34 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 777sc View Post
Nice. I gotta do this before I put my manifold on my motor.
Yeah hindsight is 20/20
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Old 11-12-2013, 05:50 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Its tapered just to make it easy to remove material until you get to the final correct thread size at the end. I actually did thread it from both sides there was adequate room on the install side. The fitting tightened very well and i am not second guessing my work.


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Take it from a Professional mechanic with training on the topic, you tapped that hole wrong.
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Old 11-12-2013, 06:25 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Take it from a Professional mechanic with training on the topic, you tapped that hole wrong.
oh no! and I need special tools to work on a porsche...

well the fitting is in there not leaking and that porsche is still on the road after removing and installing the engine/trans...

Just saying what's done is done regardless of the nay sayers. darn... I must have forgot to use the magical threading lube or maybe i didn't giggle my crank stick just right...
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Old 11-12-2013, 06:57 PM   #19 (permalink)
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The taper with pipe fittings is to provide a leak free seal under high pressure conditions.

The cooling system operates nowhere near high pressure.

Again, while not ideal, it will work fine.
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Old 12-01-2013, 09:56 AM   #20 (permalink)
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There is still sufficient thermal cycling to create leaks.

The solution to taping it from the correct side is visible in picture #3: use a socket to turn the tap with a LONG extension! Just don't use an impact wrench! I have a 1/2" socket T-handle wench that works wonders for deeply recessed tap jobs.

Pipe goop or teflon tape will work just fine when the threads are angled correctly. I prefer rectorseal, it's hasn't let me down yet. Hondabond should also work, although it's not really designed for this type of seal.
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