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Old 05-12-2005, 09:19 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Any cheap DIY 92-95 drum->disc conversion ideas?

I would like to cheaply upgrade the brakes on a 92-95 Civic LX. Drums look kinda dumb behind bling bling rims. And oh yeah, more go should be accompanied by more woah, right?

Any ideas for the relatively mechanically inclided, but time and money deprived? Most everything I've seen is for 96-00's.
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Old 05-12-2005, 09:51 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sporqster
I would like to cheaply upgrade the brakes on a 92-95 Civic LX. Drums look kinda dumb behind bling bling rims. And oh yeah, more go should be accompanied by more woah, right?

Any ideas for the relatively mechanically inclided, but time and money deprived? Most everything I've seen is for 96-00's.

all you need is a set of rear disc brakes off of a 99-00 si, 92-95 si, 90-01 integra.

they will all fit.

you just need to swap the whole trailing arm, you need the brake lines with the trailing arms, and you need to find the right prop valve and ebrake lines to match your car. you aslo might need a bigger master cylinder.

if you find it for a 96-00, it'll work for your car.
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Old 05-13-2005, 08:24 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gftgrill
all you need is a set of rear disc brakes off of a 99-00 si, 92-95 si, 90-01 integra.

they will all fit.

you just need to swap the whole trailing arm, you need the brake lines with the trailing arms, and you need to find the right prop valve and ebrake lines to match your car. you aslo might need a bigger master cylinder.

if you find it for a 96-00, it'll work for your car.
since most rear disc brakes from used/wrecked cars come with the trailing arms anyways, you can swap the whole shoootin match out as gftgrill said.

another option is swapping the hub assemblies. i know there are posts in here and on h-t about it (not trying to be a search nazi at all here ) explaining how to just swap out the hub assembly by removing it from the trailing arm via removal of the torx bolts. i believe the hub assemblies from the 94-01 Teg and 92-95 Si/EX use same trailing arms. one plus to the hub swap is since you don't need to remove the trailing arm you won't require another alignment which costs more money (provided your alignment was within spec to begin with). on the downside, ive also read that if you strip the torx bolts or break them, you'll then be forced to do the entire trailing arm swap .

someone please feel free to chime in and correct me if im wrong or support if im right. i have the links saved on my laptop at home about the hub swap but im at work right now. if i have time tonite i can post them up for you. * EDIT * here's the link to the FAG section in h-t. scroll down to the BRAKING section and you should have all the info you need: http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=642479
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One thing I have always believed, and I think should apply here too for the most part, is this: If you have nothing nice to say, don't say anything at all. Why put forth that effort to tell someone some negative stuff that you know they won't like to hear. Build your car how you want, and let others do the same.

Namaste

Last edited by Steve-O; 05-13-2005 at 08:48 AM.
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Old 05-14-2005, 10:31 AM   #4 (permalink)
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upgrade your front discs and hit your drums with some duplicolor silver wheel paint or buy the bling bling brembo drum housings....
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Old 05-14-2005, 10:41 AM   #5 (permalink)
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i was waitin for kommon or transex to chime in with something like that

if you're not dead set on rear discs Sporqster and this helps any, i upgraded my front rotors and rear drums to brembo blanks, pads to axxis/pbr ultimates and fluid to valvoline synpower dot 4 and it was a very noticeable improvement that my previous setup (stock pads, drilled and slotted rotors). the brakes have alot more bite now than ever before.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kommon_sense
...or buy the bling bling brembo drum housings....
i have them but i painted mine black right away with rust paint because i hate the sniy look behind black wheels. the brembo rotors and drums were cheaper than OEM honda ones, even with my staff discount

speaking of painting your brakes, give the rotors a squirt on the side of the rotor hat and the edge of the disc where the vents are. now i know why honda rotors come paonted in those areas because mine have a beautiful rust colour where the OEM ones are painted. time to yank em off and give em a squirt of tremclad
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One thing I have always believed, and I think should apply here too for the most part, is this: If you have nothing nice to say, don't say anything at all. Why put forth that effort to tell someone some negative stuff that you know they won't like to hear. Build your car how you want, and let others do the same.

Namaste

Last edited by Steve-O; 05-14-2005 at 10:48 AM.
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Old 05-14-2005, 07:36 PM   #6 (permalink)
 
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Since im broke and all i kept my drums and have cross drilled rotors and EBC green stuff pads and stainless brake lines. Highly reccoment green stuff pads! Setup has more than enough power to stop my car. In fact, my tires break free (new 205/45/17) long before my brakes stop grabbing. Leaving the drums worked fine for me.
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Old 06-03-2005, 09:28 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Though the disc spindle will swap, it can be a huge pain to get the torx bolts out. I broke 3 husky bits on an 800lbft torque gun and couldn't get them out...
However I love my discs... 11.8"f, 10.6 rear... I didn't change the 30/30 prop valve and haven't had problems with rears locking up... I'm going to do some testing on it though at higher speeds once my motor's done and I can go out on the track...

Last edited by gpny; 06-03-2005 at 09:32 AM.
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Old 06-03-2005, 10:19 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve-O

i believe the hub assemblies from the 94-01 Teg and 92-95 Si/EX use same trailing arms. one plus to the hub swap is since you don't need to remove the trailing arm you won't require another alignment which costs more money (provided your alignment was within spec to begin with). on the downside, ive also read that if you strip the torx bolts or break them, you'll then be forced to do the entire trailing arm swap .
Werd. Out of 10 total bolts ( Im pretty sure it was 10) I broke about half. Funny enought the arms that I bought (that were free from the car) those bolts came off no problem. It was the actual bolts that where on the car. It sucked. I think If I was to do it again, I would swap the whole arms.


It looks sooooo much better with the rear discs, and nice rims.
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Old 06-03-2005, 03:25 PM   #9 (permalink)
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that sucks the bolts broke but glad it ended up working out for ya . now go out and start testing those babies
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Originally Posted by
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One thing I have always believed, and I think should apply here too for the most part, is this: If you have nothing nice to say, don't say anything at all. Why put forth that effort to tell someone some negative stuff that you know they won't like to hear. Build your car how you want, and let others do the same.

Namaste
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