|11-26-2003, 02:58 PM||#1 (permalink)|
Step 1: Jack up the car and secure with jack stands.
Step 2: Remove tires and take a good look at the stock set up.
Step 3: Check your parts and be sure that they are for your car.
Step 4: Loosen and remove the Phillips head screw holding the stock rotor onto the hub.
Step 5: You may need to use an impact driver. These can be purchased from any store that sells automotive tools, ie. Kragen, Pep Boys, Home Depot, etc.
Step 6: Sometimes the screw will be corroded or just too tight and the head may strip out. In this case, you will need to use a die grinder and cut a groove into the screw and the rotor itself. The groove needs to be about 1/8" deep or enough for you to use one of the flathead bits. Don't go too deep or you will not have enough of the head left to break loose. Remember, you are replacing the rotor so don't worry about cutting it. ** SEE STEP 20 **
Step 7: Loosen and remove the 12mm bolt holding on the brake line to the steering knuckle.
Step 8: Move the brake line out of the way.
Step 9: Loosen and remove the 12mm bolt holding the brake caliper to the brake assembly.
Step 10: This will allow you to swing the caliper up off of the pads.
Step 11: This top pivot point is just a greased alignment shaft, carefully peel back the rubber dust boot and completely remove the caliper from the bracket.
Step 12: Set the caliper aside or suspend it using some twine. What ever you do, don't let it hang, you can damage the brake line.
Step 13: This leaves the caliper bracket and the brake pads. Take a good look at it so that you will know which way they go back in. Remove the brake pads.
Step 14: Loosen and remove the two 17mm bolts holding on the caliper bracket.
Step 15: Remove the bracket and set aside.
Step 16: Since you already removed the screw holding the rotor you should be able to just slide the stock rotor off of the hub. Sometimes they get rusted and stick to the hub. Use a hammer and hit the rotor from the rear to dislodge it from the hub. Be sure not to hit the axle or anything else.
Step 17: ** (High importance!) ** With a wire wheel (or brush) clean the hub area where the rotor comes into contact with it. If the rust and corrosion is too bad, it will cause the rotor to wobble and you will get a shaking feeling when you drive.
Step 18: After you have wire wheeled the hub, clean it up with some brake cleaner to finish the job. This is what it should look like.
Step 19: Install the new Power Slot rotor onto the hub.
Step 20: Secure it with the Phillips head screw removed in step 4. If you had cut the screw, we highly recommend you purchase new screws from the dealer.
Step 21: Use your impact driver to snug up the screw, one hit is fine.
Step 22: Replace your caliper bracket.
Step 23: Reinstall the caliper by sliding in the alignment shaft.
Step 24: Move to the top of the car and wipe off the brake master cylinder. You want to do this so that you don't get any dirt into the brake fluid.
Step 25: Twist off the cap and remove. If the brake fluid level is more than half full, you will want to remove some of the brake fluid. We found that some good absorbent paper towels work well.
Step 26: With your brake caliper tool (found at same stores as impact driver) place inside the caliper to compress the brake cylinder.
Step 27: Slowly compress the brake cylinder until it reaches full compression. You don't want to go to fast otherwise the cylinder boot will bubble out and it is a pain to collapse.
Step 28: Lay out your brake pads into one of the Power Slot's empty boxes.
Step 29: Using some disk brake quiet spray, spray evenly across the brake pads. Be sure that the complete pad is covered.
Step 30: From the old pad, remove the pad shim and clean off. Spray the contacting area of the shim as well. Be sure to let sit for about 5 minutes or so. It works similar to rubber cement.
Step 31: After it has set, firmly press the shim onto the brake pad.
Step 32: Place your brake pads back into the caliper bracket in the same way you took them out. *The pad with the tab goes in the rear.
Step 33: Lower the bottom of the caliper into place.
Step 34: Sometimes the caliper will hit the bracket. In this case just push the shaft back until it will clear.
Step 35: Reinstall the 12mm nut into the lower shaft of the caliper and tighten down to about 25lbs-ft torque.
Step 36: Be sure to clean off any grease marks or smudges that may be on the rotor. This little spot will cause the rotors to wear incorrectly.
Step 37: Top off your brake fluid to the "top" mark on the brake master cylinder.
Step 38: Slowly pump the brakes a few times until the pedal feels stiff.
Step 39: Reinstall your wheels and lower the car.
Step 40: Check your brake fluid again and top off if needed.
Step 41: You are done! Test drive carefully.
*Installers note: Avoid heavy braking for the first 200 miles so that the pads and the rotors can break in correctly. During the first 100 miles or so, you will here some WEIRD sounds coming from your brakes. This will include noises such as slight squeaking, shuttering and rubbing. It should go away after 100 miles. If for some reason it doesn't, pull the wheels and check all the nuts and bolts for tightness
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