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Old 03-20-2013, 08:02 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default DIY: Detailing 101

This is a thread I made on another forum and I dont see one here. The purpose of this thread is detail smarter and not harder.
Whatever works for you is whatever works for you. I have used store bought stuff only to be disappointed in 2 weeks when it washes off.

1st:
You want to tackle the dirtiest parts first. If the dirt splashes to other parts, you can wash it later when u get to it..

Under hood.. wrap your wiring and distrib. with a plastic bag.

Everyone syays simple green, i never used the stuff, I use the Purple Power from Advanced Auto. U get a gallon for 5 bucks. *savings!

Spray the crap out of your engine.. Use a parts washing brush for the stubborn areas..
Do not let this stuff dry! and make sure u rinse well!

Next.. Any leftover dirt (painted frame rails,around the brake reservoir, and anywhere else that caked up) use ORIGINAL GOJO hand cleaner. Its a buck at advanced auto.

Now, using your parts brush, brush that crap on and move it around until the dirt is moving around with you. Usually 1 application is all it takes. Rinse off and start the underside of your hood.

#2 Wheels:

As we all know how to clean wheels, im not going to get into this.

#3 Body:

Start with the front end and wet the bumper that collects all the bugs. Using a bug sponge and car wash soap, wash off all those pesky critters.
Next, Start with one side of the car and wash from top down.. Keep your sponge wet,Be sure to wipe the door jambs,trunk jambs, and gas door area.Under the doors get pretty dirty, make sure to wash under there as well. Then rinse from top down. *HINT* To avoid getting soap on the other side of the car, stand on the dirty side of the car and spray the horizontal surfaces towards the clean side, then move around and spray the sides from top down. Repeat for other side. Exhaust tips get carbon, so carb cleaner blast cleans that nicely!. * dont forget to wash fender areas!!

Dry car from top side down, open all doors and wipe all jambs and mirrors and such (dont forget the plate area)


Polishing:
Now everyone uses their own stuff, but this is the stuff that actually works best for me in the hot florida sun.


^ that stuff is 12.00 from the store and worth every penny! Trust me!

Now, read the directions, you dont want this stuff drying on you. let sit for 30-45 sec max! than take it off. Whenever you wax/polish, Make sure you apply it evenly and go with the lines of your car, never cross the lines (doors, gas door, jambs, hood, fenders) later on when ur tired, the last thing you want to do is go back and dig that crap out of places. So, follow the lines and dont cross them.

Now that u have you ride clean and pretty, Now is the time to dress the tires. The overspray will find its way on your fresh polish job. No Worries.

If you have dirty fender wells, Now is the time to break out some flat black paint and spray them evenly (after theyre dry of course) If you get some on the paint, dont worry, just leave it for now. You will prob need to move the tires to get to some areas.

Under the Hood should be dry enough for some dressing. Take some tire shine (or whatever dressing you like) and lightly spray it down. ( i use the cheap foam stuff from armour all. like 2.00 a can and doesnt attract dirt as fast as silicone. You Will get overspray everywhere on the paint.. not to worry, leave it for now.


Now, You have a clean ride, but has paint overspray and tire dressing over it..

#4 Waxing:

This is the stuff i use. It is also 12.00 a bottle, but worth it..


This is a cleaner type wax, It will take off your paint and dressing overspray. You can wax just like you did polish.
I usually use whats leftover on my pad to do the windows. Why pay for rain-x?

Wax all your door jambs cause thats usually where the rust starts.

After you wipe everything down, look down the side of your car by putting your eye near the headlight and then the tail light. It will reveal where you missed a spot or 2. Usually a 2" detail brush (paint brush with the bristles cut short) can brush out wax left in trim and crevices.


Thats my routine and takes me around2 - 2.5 hours to do it correctly.

#5 Inside:
I always wipe the plastic down with cleaner, then a wet rag for rinse. I dont do the shiny plastic, I like my interior to be dull like factory. If you have dirt in the ridges, use the detail brush (cut paint brush) and some cleaner and it should take the dirt right out.

Anyone with stubborn stains in the carpet, try non clorinated brake cleaner. Wont fade your carpet and drys quickly.


Theres my quick tips for cleaning your ride.. Some poeple have their own methods and products, I just posted what I use..


I found this works great between waxes and takes 10 mins to do after a wash.



(6 month paint protection is quite a bold statement, Maybe if the car was stored in a garage for 6 months)
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Old 03-20-2013, 08:35 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Default DIY: Detailing 101

Good tips here I'm going to have to try the brake clean on stains. As far as polish and wax I prefer the meguiars ultimate. It's a little more expensive but I've found that it really makes dirt fall aff with water. I use it on my Xterra which sees plenty of dirt and mud with great results.


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Old 03-21-2013, 08:17 AM   #3 (permalink)
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i really want to know what to use to clean wheels. All that brake dust that does not come off easily. was thinking of using a wheel sealant so when i spray the wheel cleaner the dirt would just ooze off.
BTW I use Sonax wheel cleaner but still needs a brush to get rid of all the specks left over.
Also after a wash I clay the car like twice every year

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Old 03-21-2013, 01:25 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I'm definitely going to try the purple power next time instead of simple green, you can't beat $5 for a gallon!!
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Old 03-21-2013, 01:37 PM   #5 (permalink)
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be careful with purppower it will eat your paint.
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Old 03-21-2013, 01:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 92vxslotec View Post
I'm definitely going to try the purple power next time instead of simple green, you can't beat $5 for a gallon!!
for multipurpose cleaner i use Croftgate, not the cheapest but cleans pretty well.
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Old 03-23-2013, 03:22 AM   #7 (permalink)
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be careful with purppower it will eat your paint.
This is true! this is why I say to not let it dry and try not to get it on exterior paint.
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Old 03-23-2013, 07:18 AM   #8 (permalink)
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be careful with purppower it will eat your paint.
Yup, good info here
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Old 04-19-2013, 05:43 AM   #9 (permalink)
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First off, I would NEVER paint my fender liners with them on the car. That's the most retarded thing I've ever heard. If you don't want to remove them to paint them, they make 'dressing' you can spray on them to make them black. All it is, is a greasy/oily liquid in an aerosol can. If you want them super clean, jack the car up, remove the tire, spray the liner with degreaser, and scrub it with a brush. Then apply detail dressing.

Also, when doing under the hood/engine bay, you don't need bags. Rags work just fine. When I do mine, I cover the distributor, and the fusebox. The way the fusebox and cover is designed, you don't NEED to cover it unless you spray the shit out of it. But, I cover it just in case. You don't need to cover the plug wires or anything else. If you HAVE to cover other electrical parts, you have more issues to worry about.

Once done cleaning under the hood/engine bay, it's best to shut the hood, and let the car run/idle for about 20 minutes or so. The heat from the engine will dry out the engine bay for the most part.

When applying tire dressing/shine, it's best to use a gel, or a VERY fine spray nozzle on the spray types. Try to make sure that it's NOT windy out. If it's slightly windy and you're not VERY careful, you WILL (and I mean WILL) get tire shine on your paint around the fenders/bumpers. Easiest way to take it off, is either a polishing compound, or re-washing the area. Wax might work, but it'll most likely just push around the grease/oil from the tire shine.

When detailing the interior... It's usually easier to do it this way...

First, wipe down all interior dash/plastics first. When doing this, you're likely to get over spray/oil/grease from the cleaning solutions on the windows.
Secondly, scrub the carpets/vacuum seats/floors.
Then, clean the windows last.

I'm not trying to sound like an ass or cocky or anything, but this is coming from 6+ years of experience professionally detailing cars (I've detailed Hondas, GMs, Chevys, $80k Cadillacs, etc, in a professional environment).
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Old 04-19-2013, 06:02 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I ALWAYS paint my fener liners with them on the car. Its alot easier to do when moving the wheels. Spraying a silicone or some oily substance will collect the dirt kicked up from the tires. Paint will not hold the dirt.

I dont know why you say its retarded.. Its really no big deal. Any overspray can be taken off with the wax. Same for tire dressing. Your wax has petroleum (which is what cleans the paint surface) which will remove the overspray of paint and dressing.

This is comming from a professional detailer thats been detailing since '94 in a professional environment. Hundreds of cars including exotics. Also, when I detailed at a GM dealership, every used car I detailed sold within a week.

The purpose of this write up is for the kids who dont know anythign about cleaning their ride. These are simple products found at their local parts store. As pro's, we have access to all the little detailing products that make our job quicker and easier.
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Old 04-19-2013, 06:32 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Wax won't remove paint. Wet paint, maybe. It'll make a mess, though. IMO, it's just easier to either remove it, or scrub the shit out of it. I've NEVER had to paint my fender lines, nor any car I've detailed. Usually when they become THAT dirty, they become pitted, and no matter how much you paint them, it'll still look terrible.

Also, used cars sell themselves. I've seen cars come through, SOLD, that have NEVER been detailed and looked like a homeless man had been living in it for a decade. Yes, clean cars sell faster and easier, but at a professional dealership, the car being 'dirty' doesn't turn away buyers. They know it'll be clean when they pick it up.

Again, I'm not bashing you, nor talking down on you in any way. Just stating my 2 cents.
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Old 04-19-2013, 06:35 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Yes, wax will remove fresh paint. doesnt make a mess. your splitting hairs here.

Ive used wax to remove small amounts of road tar before. Not trying to say your method is wrong, Just pointing out the experience level is clearly shown.


(EDIT: of course the liners will look terrible. id rather have flat black painted liners then have dirt colored grey after everything is all clean and shiny. Thats the point is to make them look somewhat half assed new. Your car wont look clean a week later as nothing clean will stay clean. Same for the liners)
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Old 04-19-2013, 09:56 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Old 04-19-2013, 09:59 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Not much to watch. I'm not going to argue over the internet. I'm not saying anyone's right, nor wrong. That's all...
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Old 04-19-2013, 10:00 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Old 04-19-2013, 10:06 AM   #16 (permalink)
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i was subscribing for some form of verification. i'm not saying i want to see an argument

i'm also not saying i don't trust what either or you is saying, but i would like to see verification and what kind of time period there is on using this hi-tech wax to remove the paint. this is the type of information that interest me
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