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Old 01-02-2013, 10:17 PM   #1 (permalink)
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If you seek the lowest risk method of repairing or servicing a vehicle, I recommend that you have a licensed or certified auto repair shop do the repairs.

Also some procedures are summurized to save the author time. if you the reader are not farmiliar with these procedures DO NOT procede with any procedures herein

this article.


---------------------------92-95 civic/del sol auto to five speed conversion with motor out of the vehicle--------------------------------
-------------------------------------------------------------------Author:THEFT-REPO-SOL--------------------------------------------------------------------
Parts List:
1. clutch pedal assembly
2. shift linkage, stableizer bar and shifter assembly
3. 92-00 5 speed trans
4. innovative auto-5 speed transmission adaptor mount
92-95 Civic A/T to M/T Conversion Mount for B and D Series Engines with Hydraulic Transmission
5. clutch master cylinder, line and slave cylinder
6. 92-00 clutch disk, pressure plate and fly wheel
7. pressure plate and fly wheel bolts
8. five speed rear mount

9. epoxy and sheet metal
10. 5 speed ecu (this is dependent on the engine (d15b7=p06/d16z6=p2)
11. 5 speed throttle body
12. 5 speed VSS (vehicle speed sensor)
13. 5-speed starter
14. axles- can reuse auto axles
15. Tools: Basic socket set (256 Craftsman is ideal), engine hoist (this conversion is extremly easier without the motor in the vehicle), pry bars, needle nose plyers,

WD-40/PB Blaster, Goop, Quick Steel, and A dremel. that is the majority of tools used. specialty tools: 10 and 17 mm 10 point sockets. flare nut wrenches.

------------------------------------------------------------------------PEDAL REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION PROCEDURE------------------------------------------------------------------------
1. remove the old pedal assembly. after the new pedal assembly is installed the rest of the conversion is a breeze.
1a. first you want to remove the steering wheel lower cover its held in by 3-4 screws. then the steering column cover which is held in by two screws. after that your

going to drop the steering column. it is held in place by four 12mm bolts and be sure to have a helper handy so it doesnt scare/hit you when it falls.
1b. dis-connect the throttle cable and cruise control cable from the pedal assembly.

we'll take the cruise control off thats is easy. just flip the cable over and push out the pin.


For the throttle your going to pull the pedal towards you and pull the cable out.

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Old 01-02-2013, 10:17 PM   #2 (permalink)
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1c. Dis-connecting the brakes from the pedal assembly. the brakes are like the gas. if your not cussing yet you will now, because there is a cotter pin holding it in

place. you'll be upside down and blind while you do this! pop the cotter pin and pull the out the connecting pin from the master cylinder to the pedal assembly.



1d. lets focus on the clutch master cylinder for a moment. you should see a big whole with two small holes on eith side. pop those out and install you clutch

master cylinder through and install the clutch pedal. do not adjust the pedal yet wait until the conversion is complete. note i dont have pics of the clutch master

cylinder going in (its just two bolts and a cotter pin to attach the pedal the the master cylinder.


1e. removal of the gas and brake.
BRAKE: theres is 4 bolts that attach it to the master cylinder and 1 up top (kinda of like the clutch). there is also a brake sensor attached.


BREAK--
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Old 01-02-2013, 10:18 PM   #3 (permalink)
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GAS: it is held in with two bolts. (no pics) all the bolts are 12 mm.


1f. once its all stripped carefully remove the pedal assembly (be aware of snags). its also very helpful to have someone steady and secure the brake booster and

master cylinder while removing the pedals.also remember that there is a shit ton of sheet metal under the dash that is just waiting to slice your girly fingers up!!!
1g.re-install the five speed gas and brake pedal assembly in reverse order of removal.


2. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------CENTER CONSOLE---------------------------------------------------------------------------
2a. removing the column.


note: the blue wiring harness protruding from the shifter column. keep intact all the way to the white shift select glider.


also there is four bolts holing in the shifter column from underneath the car (no pics).
3.--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------MOTOR REMOVAL-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3a. summerized rundown of the motor removal. NOTE: All these procedures are covered in your chilton/haynes manuel.
- drain all coolant and oil.
- remove battery
- disconnect the wiring harness from the motor
- dissconnect starter
- mark and remove the distributor
- disconnect the oil coolant lines from the auto trans
- disconnect coolant ,vacuum, and fuel lines from the motor.
- loosen alternator then remove the accessories from the car (power steering, A/C, and cruise control) if applicable.
- remove wheels
- break ball joints
- remove axles
- dissconnect auto transmission cable
- drain transaxle fluid
- take off header (start with down pipe and then remove header from motor, opposite removal may result in the assembly landing on your face).
- Attach hoist (i use tranny hook and attach a bolt to the rear of the head on the drivers side. make sure its snug)
- Mounts: two lower front of engine- seperate from the motor they will hang there.
three main- first the rear, then the tranny and finally the timing belt side.
- Pull motor: do this slowly and guide motor.
4. ---------------------------------------------------------------TRANSMISSON REMOVAL/TORQUE CONVERTER REMOVAL------------------------------------------------------
4a. remove starter
4b. dissconnect wiring harness from auto transmisson
4c. remove all bolts holding the trans to the motor. pry apart. (NOTE: the torque converter has ample amounts of tranny fluid in it. it may spill so be ready).
4d. remove bolts that run through the flex plate into the torque converter in a criss cross pattern a quarter turn at a time to ensure it doesnt warp. (NOTE: the torque

converter is very heavy and will drop without warning.)
4e. remove the flexplate: remove the flexplate bolts in a crisscross pattern a quarter turn at a time to avoid warpage
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------THROTTLE BODY----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
5a. remove automatic throttle body
5b. clean mating surface on the intake (i use a die grinder with dead lock pads they look like scotch brights).
5c. clean throttle body mating surface (i use a die grider with deadloc pads).
5d. install new gasket (i use copper spray but its not nessecary).
5e. attach 5 speed throttle body to the intake manifold.
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Old 01-02-2013, 10:19 PM   #4 (permalink)
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-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------CLUTCH LINES-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
6. this is pretty straight forward theres hard and soft and they only reinstall one way. this priciple also applies to the 96-00 civics.
6a. clutch master cylinder and hard line installation.







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Old 01-02-2013, 10:19 PM   #5 (permalink)
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6b. attach the slave cylinder now.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------WIND PLATE----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
7. wind plate removal: this has to be removed in order for the shift linkage to attach to the manuel shifter. some cars have it some dont the girls car didnt have this

just a a bracket.
7a. if your car has either of these just use a dremel with a cutting disk to remove it. (NOTE use eye protection).


some cars have a heat shield to protect the auto transmisson cables is it does remove it as well.
7b. i have used this same heat shield or sheet metal to cover the gaping hole revealed by removing the windplate. grind outer perimeter to expose clean metal for

adhesive bonding. be sure to do both sides. one side will attach to the car using goop. after it dries the other side will be used for the quik steel. this makes a great

water proof seal.




7c. if you have a doner car just simply cut out the 5 speed hub and silicone it into place and rivit it in.

7d. install shifter assembly: measure and drill necessary holes and run bolts through the assembly (NOTE: i used spare intake/throttle body nuts and bolts for mine).
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Old 01-02-2013, 10:20 PM   #6 (permalink)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------WIRING------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
8 there are two different ways i have found to do this:
8a. Non-Cruise Control: remember that harness from the center console i told you not to cut? now its time to cut. your going to have two thick black wires and one

black/blue wire, solder those three together. this makes the car think its in park and will release the key so you can start it.

8b. next there is a yellow/red wire and a green/black wire. it doesnt matter how you wire these the continuity will be the same either way since they are for your

reverse lights. i cut a pigtail from a five speed engine harness to connect these to the five speed transmission. i suggest waiting until the motor and trans is

reinstalled to run the reverse light wiring. i also run these wire through a spare port located behind the glove box and beneath the battery.

8c. Cuise Control/Kill switch way: this is my prefered method. remember the 14p pin connector i told you to save including the white shift indicator slider?
ok extend its wires by a foot except for the yellow/red wire and the green/black wire leave these two exposed for now. after extending the the shifter wires zip tie

that in a secret accessable location. on del sols i attach it to the e-brake and access it through the ash-tray. the reason i no longer remove this shift indicator is

that the car still has automatic features. the first being that it will not start unless the car is in park or neutral. the second is that after its started place it into drive

and you can use you cruise control. i have heard of grounding the pink wire to access the cruise control but could never get it to work.
8d. wait until the trans is installed and follow step 8b.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------INTERLOCK SYSTEM------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
9. this system is in place to ensure you can retrive your key while the car is in park.
9a. this is all under the driver side of the dash. disconnect and remove this relay.

9b. remove ignition lock




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Old 01-02-2013, 10:21 PM   #7 (permalink)
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-------------------------------------------------------------------INSTALL CLUTCH ASSEMBLY/TRANSMISSON REATTACHMENT---------------------------------------------------
10a. attach the flywhell. (the flywheel to crank bolts require 87 ft/lbs) also handtighten, and then tighten a quarter turn at a time in a criss cross pattern until 87 ft/lbs is

reached. i use a breaker bar on the crank pully bolt to keep the engines rotating assembly from moving during this procedure.
10b. slide clutch disk onto the clutch alignment tool and the slide this into the pilot bearing located in the flywheel.
10c. line the pressure plate up with the dowel pins. then hand tighten, and then in a criss cross pattern tighten the pressure plate bolts to 19 ft/lbs.
10d. place a 2x4 under the motors oil pan on the skinny side to make it level. then slide the transmisson on (NOTE: do not damage the transmissons input splines)
sometimes the transmisson inout splines do not line up with the clutch assembly and will have to be rocked in either direction until it slips into the clutch disks

splines. once it slides in the push the tranmisson onto the alignment dowls and start the large transmisson bolts. torque these down to 47 ft/lbs. the largest bolt

that goes to the rear mount assembly will be torqued to 61 ft/lbs. remember to install the 5 speed starter on the five speed transmission. also its time to install the

5 speed VSS if one is not alread installed on the 5 speed tansmisson.
10e. this an the rest of the transmisson reassembly is covered in your haynes/chiltons manuel.
10f. if the shift linkage is not already installed on the transmisson do so now. this is also covered in the Haynes/chilton manuel.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------MOTOR REINSTALLATION---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
11a. follow section three in reverse order.
11b. remember to guide the shift linkage through by hand until it meets the shifter assembly.
11c. also after the motor is mounted remember to attach your transmisson stabilizer bar to both the transmisson and shifter assembly. also remember to bleed the

clutch hydrolic system.
11d. remember now is the time to run you reverse light wiring.
11e. finish installing the motor in reverse order of section 3. when you reach the transmisson mount remember to use the adaptor mount or the engine will sit at angle

causing the axles to bind.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------TOTAL WRENCH TIME 8-12 HOURS------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Old 01-02-2013, 10:40 PM   #8 (permalink)
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woah that is awesome, the photo's are great. one thing that would be good is if you attached all the smaller photo's actually to the site so if whatever site they are hosted on goes down they will still be here.

rep for you!
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Old 01-02-2013, 10:45 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firsteg View Post
woah that is awesome, the photo's are great. one thing that would be good is if you attached all the smaller photo's actually to the site so if whatever site they are hosted on goes down they will still be here.

rep for you!
im not exactly sure how to attach the photos to this site .
thanks for the rep i'd hit you back but just repped you on your DIY mini me timing thread. it was excellent.
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Old 01-03-2013, 02:44 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Just my 2 cents on the trans mount not sure how expensive they are but save your self a few bucks if you have a welder or if someone can bring one over and cut the wings off the chasis and all I did was used 1/4 is plate I think was 2inch tall and 6 inch wide but I had to trim some down a little. But cut the tabs as close to chasis as possible or drill out the plug welds and cut tacks to resuse the factory piece. Back to where I was going though take tabs run your transmission bolt through snug it up when tabs sit flat against the 2x6 inch piece then tack the tabs unbolt and weld them then once done and cooled bolt it back to transmission see where its suppose to sit and weld to chasis. Mine are holding up so far after a year of abuse. Other than that tip great article you wrote ! Luckily when I did mine I had a sonar car now I'm running a d16z6 with a 5 speed and a jrsc tucked under the manifold
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Old 01-03-2013, 02:45 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Forgot to add transmission has to be attached to motor and motor bolt to ball mounts before doing above
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Old 01-03-2013, 02:50 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I didn't read all the details but not sure if every civic is the same as my 92 but I had to plug in one of the modules in the center console to by-pass the lock out on the starter
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Old 01-03-2013, 04:02 PM   #13 (permalink)
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if you would actually take the time to read posts before you comment you might learn something different. i cover two different ways to bypass the starter module in the article.
also i do not like to chop up my frame just to fabricate a trans-axle frame mount, it jeopardizes the integrity of the vehicle and looks tacky. thus i used the 129.00 auto to 5 speed conversion mount that is hyper linked in the parts section. once again if you weren't in such a hurry to muck up someone else's work you might have realized that. so read the entire post before posting a rebuttal.
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Old 01-03-2013, 04:29 PM   #14 (permalink)
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very good write up i did a auto to 5spd in a DC with a DA tranny, and this is very detailed much better then all the ones i used for insight. a couple comments.
1. idk abt civics but getting that pedal assembly out of the intgera is a major PITA, it can be difficult finding and removing all of the nut and bolts for this.
2. you dont need a mount kit (they didnt make one for are aplicantion), we found a welder and he moved the mount on th chassis like 3/4in forward and tacked it into place and the engine sat level with no problems.
3. i didnt remove any of the interlock swithc and didnt mod the harness all i did was cut the plug of the automatic shifter assembley and soldered those wires together.
4. unless you are OBD2 you dont need a new ECU you just remove a couple resistors, or you can run your old ecu but it will throw tranny codes (OBD1) or P07XX (OBD2). we reused his OBD2 ecu.
5. you dont have to remove the engine but it was extemly difficult me and my friend to install. we ended up lifting it with a floor jack on the clutch side while he adjusted the trany move side to angle it right while i used a couple huge screw drivers and really long bolts to line it up.
6. also if you get a junkyard tranny like we did i would at a very minamum ceack the tranny open. sence are tranny was 22yrs old, i pulled the shafts out and measured, that tranny was mint for its age.

lol he never tought of using 5spd donor metal to plug the hole in his floor he ran with open for a couple months till the welder patched it.
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Old 01-03-2013, 04:30 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Great info man, love the pictures keep it up!!! REP TO YOU SOL BROTHA!
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Old 01-03-2013, 07:04 PM   #16 (permalink)
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very good write up i did a auto to 5spd in a DC with a DA tranny, and this is very detailed much better then all the ones i used for insight. a couple comments.
1. idk abt civics but getting that pedal assembly out of the intgera is a major PITA, it can be difficult finding and removing all of the nut and bolts for this.
2. you dont need a mount kit (they didnt make one for are aplicantion), we found a welder and he moved the mount on th chassis like 3/4in forward and tacked it into place and the engine sat level with no problems.
3. i didnt remove any of the interlock swithc and didnt mod the harness all i did was cut the plug of the automatic shifter assembley and soldered those wires together.
4. unless you are OBD2 you dont need a new ECU you just remove a couple resistors, or you can run your old ecu but it will throw tranny codes (OBD1) or P07XX (OBD2). we reused his OBD2 ecu.
5. you dont have to remove the engine but it was extemly difficult me and my friend to install. we ended up lifting it with a floor jack on the clutch side while he adjusted the trany move side to angle it right while i used a couple huge screw drivers and really long bolts to line it up.
6. also if you get a junkyard tranny like we did i would at a very minamum ceack the tranny open. since are tranny was 22yrs old, i pulled the shafts out and measured, that tranny was mint for its age.

lol he never tought of using 5spd donor metal to plug the hole in his floor he ran with open for a couple months till the welder patched it.
1. yeah i mentioned its a PITA to remove the pedal assembly. everyone I've done has been a nightmare but after the pedal assemblies are swapped the rest is a breeze.
2. ill show you mine if you show me yours. I've seen them welded in just poorly also this takes time, as the mount kit is quick and painless. this particular mount can have the inserts upgraded to suit the drivers needs and it comes with a no questions asked lifetime warranty. I've ran the softest insert in "the girls car" for three years now without any complications.
3. i do both as a double redundant system. if the solder points happen to separate you can still jump the car via direct lead to the starter solenoid.
4. i hate unnecessary CEL codes causes confusion and masks underlying problems if they arise. also after the swap you can sell the auto ECU.
5. i just pull the motor. its easier. you don't have to but i hate fooling with a trans while the motor is in the car.
6. I've always had donor cars before i do this conversion; 500 bucks for a totaled five speed civic cha ching! i hate part hunting and our local Honda grave yard likes to rape you. Every time i go there my butt hurts!!!!

thanks for the input and no offense but this is just how i did it and i know it works consistently, with fail safes, cruise control, no potential frame damage and no CELs.
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Old 01-04-2013, 07:40 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by theft-repo-sol View Post
1. yeah i mentioned its a PITA to remove the pedal assembly. everyone I've done has been a nightmare but after the pedal assemblies are swapped the rest is a breeze.
2. ill show you mine if you show me yours. I've seen them welded in just poorly also this takes time, as the mount kit is quick and painless. this particular mount can have the inserts upgraded to suit the drivers needs and it comes with a no questions asked lifetime warranty. I've ran the softest insert in "the girls car" for three years now without any complications.
3. i do both as a double redundant system. if the solder points happen to separate you can still jump the car via direct lead to the starter solenoid.
4. i hate unnecessary CEL codes causes confusion and masks underlying problems if they arise. also after the swap you can sell the auto ECU.
5. i just pull the motor. its easier. you don't have to but i hate fooling with a trans while the motor is in the car.
6. I've always had donor cars before i do this conversion; 500 bucks for a totaled five speed civic cha ching! i hate part hunting and our local Honda grave yard likes to rape you. Every time i go there my butt hurts!!!!

thanks for the input and no offense but this is just how i did it and i know it works consistently, with fail safes, cruise control, no potential frame damage and no CELs.
i dont think i have any pics of it right now but i will admit it was shotty the wasy we did it as we did it on a budget of amost nothing as his auto tranny blew up. and the cheapest b-series tranny we could find was a 91 DA b18 tranny from i think it was 150 with axles linakage and mounts picknpull(i open the case insde the yard to make sure it was good). it being a cbale tranny lead us to the crazy way we did the swap we even drilled a hole in the fire wall for the cable clutch and modded the Da pedal assembley to fit his DC.
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Old 01-04-2013, 07:49 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Great write up man!!!
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Old 01-04-2013, 08:53 AM   #19 (permalink)
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when i show people "the girls car" they don't even know that it was an auto until they hop in turn the key and it wont start. then they look at the dash, only see its in drive and then they reach for the gear select! GOTCHA BITCH! i hop in, (secretly) set it to park/neutral, make sure the trans is out of gear, stand up in the seat (its a del slow and no clutch switch) and crank it over. it gets people every time!



here's the mount installed..... you don't even pay any attention to it. looks factory with an after market innovative transmisson mount.
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Old 01-04-2013, 03:19 PM   #20 (permalink)
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that does look good. hes isnt nerly as pretty.
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