DIY Engine Rebuild (DOHC ZC) - D-series.org

Go Back   D-series.org D-series Knowledge Factory DIY Forum

D-Series.org is the premier Honda All Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-11-2012, 01:27 PM   #1 (permalink)
All powerful D-series member
 
ZCHONDACRX91's Avatar
 
iTrader: (47)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Washington
Posts: 3,714
Rep Power: 15 ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....
ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....
iTrader Score: 47 reviews
Default DIY Engine Rebuild (DOHC ZC)

This is a basic DIY on rebuilding an engine. Rebuilding an engine isn't hard, if you take your time and have the right tools it can be very straight forward. This is for a DOHC ZC so specs will be different for different engines.

Step 1: Get a service manual for your engine. The Honda service manuals are by far the best, the chilton's and haynes manuals have had some specs wrong. You can probably find one here:

hondatech.info: Honda service manuals

Step 2: Get all the tools you will need:

-Assortment of metric sockets (deep and shallow) with rachet
-Feeler gauge
-Dial bore gauge (0.0005" accuracy is preferred)
-Dial Caliper
-Micrometer
-Valve Spring compressor
-Piston ring filer
-Honing tool (cheap harbor freight one will work)
-Plasti-gage
-Torque Wrench
-Piston ring expander (really helps with installing)
-Piston ring compressor
-Plastic gasket scrapper (metal ones will scratch the aluminum surface very easy)
-Straight edge (make sure the straight edge is straight, I've had old nasty ones that screwed me up)
-Engine assembly lube
-Speed wrench (very handy)



Step 3: Disassemble the engine. As you take things apart notice how they went together, it's a good idea to take some pictures or write down step by step. It can be different for every engine but what I usually do is: -take off all the accessories first like alternator/intake manifold/exhaust manifold, then take off the crank pulley and timing covers/belt.
-then just take the cams out (DOHC you need to take the cams out to take off the head), unbolt the head and set it aside
-take off oil pan and let the oil drip out in a pan for a couple hours
-Unbolt oil pickup, oil pump and rear main seal
-Unbolt main girdle/cap (there is a specific order for removing and installing, usually start in the middle and go out)
-Unbolt rod caps (notice on one side of the rod there is a number stamped in it like 2 and half is on the rod and the other is on the cap. This makes sure you don't switch it around.)
-One piston/rod assembly at a time push the piston out though the cylinder (with the oil pump/rear main seal off if you flip the stand over the crank will fall out so be careful)
-Mark each piston and rod what cylinder it is (#1 is closest to the timing belt side)
-Don't mix up bolts/caps always put them right back on after take it out.
-Then get it cleaned up a little (little brake/carb cleaner)
-Then I use my cheap honing tool to clean up the cylinder walls (real quick just to have a smooth/rust free surface to measure)







Step 4: Measure and inspect the block.
-First thing is check all bearing journals (crank/rod) for any damage. If there is you will probably need oversize bearings or find some better used ones.
-Check block surface/cylinder walls for obvious cranks or major damage
-Use the gasket scrappers to clean the block deck surface so that it's clean with no leftover gasket or oil
-Lay the straight edge on the block surface (each engine is different but it's usually corner to corner, or corner to center), and use the feeler gauge to see how much warpage is present.
-Move the straight edge around and see what's the thickest strip you can fit under, the service manual will have factory spec and limit. If it's over the limit get the block decked.
-Check the bore size using the dial bore gauge, then to up and down in the cylinder and side to side to see how much the size differs (tapers). If it's over spec you will need to get it bored out for larger pistons
-Check the crankshaft journal diameter using the micrometers, also check taper or out-of-round, then measure the diameter of the main cap bolted down. Then subtract to find what the clearance will be.
-I have brand new standard size bearings lying around to test this, but if you don't measure without bearings installed then subtract journal diameter and desired clearance to see what size you need.
-For most Honda's you usually just need standard size bearings unless there was damage done.
-Then you know what size bearings/pistons you need and what machine work you will need


__________________
DOHC ZC HX35 CRX Build Thread:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
ZCHONDACRX91 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 04-11-2012, 01:29 PM   #2 (permalink)
All powerful D-series member
 
ZCHONDACRX91's Avatar
 
iTrader: (47)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Washington
Posts: 3,714
Rep Power: 15 ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....
ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....
iTrader Score: 47 reviews
Default

Step 5: Block Prep Assembly
-Once you get your pistons/rings either take them with you to the machine shop or measure the piston-to-wall clearance
-You basically measure the piston (the piston set will say where to measure on the skirt) using your micrometer or dial caliper (I used the dial caliper, didn't have a large enough micrometer), write it down for all four
pistons because they will differ slightly. Then use the dial bore gauge to measure each cylinder (best place is usually 2 inches down the cylinder. I usually note the value on the bore gauge then put it in the dial caliper so that the chance of error is less. Subtract these numbers to find piston to wall clearance. If it's too small the machine shop will have to bore it out slightly. If the cylinder is out of round have the machine shop measure the pistons (over-sized pistons) then bore out accordingly.
-Another thing I do is, if the block surface it flat I just use a block sander with some 220-400 grit and go over the surface real quick (just to take off any imbedded oil/grease/sealants to get a clean surface)
-It's a good idea to have the crank journals micropolished and have it hot tanked. If it needs other machine work have that done also (don't forget a hone, even if the bore is good).
-After you get it back get some acetone (or equivalent) and clean the journal surface/cylinders just to make sure it's clean.
-I usually get new pistons, but if you are reusing old ones check them for damage/out of round etc.... The machine shop can press the old piston pins out and install the new pistons on rods for fairly cheap.

(Quick picture for reference, measure slightly lower and get the caliper straight)


Step 6: Block Assembly
-If the piston to wall is good, start measuring piston ring end gaps.
-Start with the top rings and put it in the cylinder, use the piston to push it down 1 inch or so then use the feeler gauge to measure the gap. If it's in spec then set it aside and do the others.
-Keep the rings in order of cylinder #, if a ring is too tight or too large try it in another cylinder to see if it's in spec in a slightly larger/smaller bore size. Use a ring filer to get it to spec otherwise.
-Once all the rings are gapped install them onto the pistons using the ring expander (bottom up works best for me), note the marks on the rings for which side is up.
-Then install the main bearings, use assembly lube on the bottom only so you can plasti-gage it. Make sure the surface is clean, then put strips of plasti-gauge on the journals and torque the caps/girdle down.
-Unbolt the main bearing caps and check the clearance, if it's good then use your finger to scrap off the plasti-gage and set the caps aside.
-Clock the piston rings, the manual should show exactly how that engine wants it. Then put the compressor on and tighten.
-Put the rod bearings on with lube on the bottom and lube the cylinder really good. If you flip the engine over (deck facing up), bolt the main caps on real quick so it doesn't fall out. Turn the crankshaft so that the
cylinder you are working on has the crankshaft in BTDC position. You can do two pistons at the time, put it in the cylinder and use a rubber/wood mallet to tap it into the cylinder. If it stops suddenly, stop and
start over. Flip the engine over and take the main caps off and check the rod clearance using plasti-gage just like on the mains. If they are inspect scrap it off with your finger and lube it up. Torque the rod caps
down to spec, then check that it still moves freely. Do it for the other two pistons and then lube up the mains more and torque those bolts down.
-Make sure it still moves freely using the crankshaft pulley bolt, if it doesn't then disassembly and inspect
-Then install the oil pump and rear main seal (don't overtighten the 10mm bolts), then oil pick up. Check that it moves freely still.
-Then from there it's just installing the oil pan (use sealant where it says but not on the whole thing), don't overtighten the bolts it will cause the gasket to break and leak.
-Install the water pump and crank washer/timing gear (make sure the washer is facing the right way).






__________________
DOHC ZC HX35 CRX Build Thread:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
ZCHONDACRX91 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-11-2012, 01:29 PM   #3 (permalink)
All powerful D-series member
 
ZCHONDACRX91's Avatar
 
iTrader: (47)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Washington
Posts: 3,714
Rep Power: 15 ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....
ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....
iTrader Score: 47 reviews
Default









Step 7: Head assembly
-I won't go into detail about rebuilding the head, but it's mostly replacing the valve stem seals and checking a few clearances, then maybe a valve job/resurface if you need it.
-Clean the block/head surface with acetone and put the head gasket on (make sure it's the right side up)
-Lube the head bolts with some oil and also it would be a good idea (before you assembled the block) to chase the threads with a tap to get them clean.
-The dowels in the head will help you align the head and block when you set it on, then put the bolts in and torque them down in the correct order and right torque spec (usually in steps like 20-40-60 lbs/ft)
-Once it's torqued down, start installing the cams/rockers using lube on the journals and sealant on cam seal. On this DOHC ZC people always overtight the 10mm cam cap bolts and break them (9 lbs/ft)
-Set valve lash, don't forget or the engine will be toast.
-Then install tensioner and then the timing belt (make sure the block it at TDC (you can use the mark on crank gear and oil pump) and that the cam gears are at TDC (marks lined up with head). Then with the tensioner bolt slightly loose and spring off install the belt and pull the spring onto the hook (steel wire works the best for me). What alot of people forget to do is with the bolt loose turn the engine counterclockwise for 3 teeth on the cam gears then tighen the tensioner bolt down to spec and check after a couple rotations that it's still at TDC for the crank and cams.
-From there it's just install the covers/crank pulley/valve cover/intake manifold and accessories.


__________________
DOHC ZC HX35 CRX Build Thread:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
ZCHONDACRX91 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 04-11-2012, 01:30 PM   #4 (permalink)
All powerful D-series member
 
ZCHONDACRX91's Avatar
 
iTrader: (47)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Washington
Posts: 3,714
Rep Power: 15 ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....
ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....
iTrader Score: 47 reviews
Default







Step 8: Break-in
-I will just say what I do, everybody does it different ways.
-Use cheap oil (non-synthetic) because synthetic can cause the rings not to seat right.
-With the spark plugs out the first time crank the engine over to build oil pressure first, then install spark plugs and start it up.
-If you have a A/F ratio gauge make sure it's not too rich or lean during warm-up and test drive
-Let it idle until it warms up and set idle speed/ignition timing
-Bleed cooling system and go for a test drive. Make sure it's smooth and feels strong going easy on it at first.
-I usually just beat on it to seat the rings (not reving it really high just WOT in high gears to put it under a load).
-Change oil after 20-50 miles and change it again at 1K miles and go from there.

This is just what I do when rebuilding an engine. I've never had a problem with any engine I built so it works for me. Any other questions just let me know. I'm sure I forgot somethings. Another bit of advice is take your time and don't half-ass it. I use mostly all Honda OEM parts, they are truly worth the extra money. BTW this was one of my DOHC ZC I had lying around so I could put this in my crx while I work on the built one. It was stock, only difference was some NPR pistons/rings. It's been about 5 months and 3K+ miles and still pull hard with no problems. Go build your own engine, if you do something wrong you learn from it and you get better. Just remember you can't learn if you don't do it.
__________________
DOHC ZC HX35 CRX Build Thread:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by ZCHONDACRX91; 04-14-2012 at 07:20 AM.
ZCHONDACRX91 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-11-2012, 02:28 PM   #5 (permalink)
Member
 
OregonGuy's Avatar
 
iTrader: (0)
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 56
Rep Power: 0 OregonGuy is learning the way of the DOregonGuy is learning the way of the D
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Default

I enjoy reading these rebuild threads. It motivates me to stock parts for my rebuild
OregonGuy is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-11-2012, 03:16 PM   #6 (permalink)
All powerful D-series member
 
ZCHONDACRX91's Avatar
 
iTrader: (47)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Washington
Posts: 3,714
Rep Power: 15 ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....
ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....
iTrader Score: 47 reviews
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by OregonGuy View Post
I enjoy reading these rebuild threads. It motivates me to stock parts for my rebuild
Do it!
__________________
DOHC ZC HX35 CRX Build Thread:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
ZCHONDACRX91 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-11-2012, 05:06 PM   #7 (permalink)
()*#$(*$
 
The_Acid_Beaver's Avatar
 
iTrader: (28)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: In a state of denial
Posts: 11,404
Rep Power: 0 The_Acid_Beaver is off the edgeThe_Acid_Beaver is off the edgeThe_Acid_Beaver is off the edgeThe_Acid_Beaver is off the edgeThe_Acid_Beaver is off the edge
The_Acid_Beaver is off the edgeThe_Acid_Beaver is off the edgeThe_Acid_Beaver is off the edgeThe_Acid_Beaver is off the edgeThe_Acid_Beaver is off the edgeThe_Acid_Beaver is off the edgeThe_Acid_Beaver is off the edgeThe_Acid_Beaver is off the edge
iTrader Score: 28 reviews
Send a message via AIM to The_Acid_Beaver
Default

The only thing I can see that annoys me is the fact you are measuring a piston skirt with a caliper and not a micrometer. heh

I like seeing these kinds of threads. Good stuff, man!
__________________
Not so obvious and ruthlessly odd . . .

I don't give a damn about my bad reputation.

RTFM. No, really. Do it.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
The_Acid_Beaver is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-12-2012, 07:13 AM   #8 (permalink)
All powerful D-series member
 
ZCHONDACRX91's Avatar
 
iTrader: (47)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Washington
Posts: 3,714
Rep Power: 15 ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....
ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....
iTrader Score: 47 reviews
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Acid_Beaver View Post
The only thing I can see that annoys me is the fact you are measuring a piston skirt with a caliper and not a micrometer. heh

I like seeing these kinds of threads. Good stuff, man!
Yeah, but I couldn't find my 3" micrometer to do the pistons, biggest one I had was 2". I used the caliper to measure the pistons and then used it with the dial bore gauge, so there wouldn't be any error (or at least less). It's definantly better with a micrometer, but it works.

Thanks, I remember seeing some of your rebuilding threads on thezcr.com, what inspired me to start building engines.
__________________
DOHC ZC HX35 CRX Build Thread:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
ZCHONDACRX91 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-12-2012, 07:49 AM   #9 (permalink)
()*#$(*$
 
The_Acid_Beaver's Avatar
 
iTrader: (28)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: In a state of denial
Posts: 11,404
Rep Power: 0 The_Acid_Beaver is off the edgeThe_Acid_Beaver is off the edgeThe_Acid_Beaver is off the edgeThe_Acid_Beaver is off the edgeThe_Acid_Beaver is off the edge
The_Acid_Beaver is off the edgeThe_Acid_Beaver is off the edgeThe_Acid_Beaver is off the edgeThe_Acid_Beaver is off the edgeThe_Acid_Beaver is off the edgeThe_Acid_Beaver is off the edgeThe_Acid_Beaver is off the edgeThe_Acid_Beaver is off the edge
iTrader Score: 28 reviews
Send a message via AIM to The_Acid_Beaver
Default

https://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-f...build-d15.html

I had posted it here, too. heh
__________________
Not so obvious and ruthlessly odd . . .

I don't give a damn about my bad reputation.

RTFM. No, really. Do it.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
The_Acid_Beaver is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-13-2012, 06:03 AM   #10 (permalink)
n00b
 
iTrader: (0)
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 1
Rep Power: 0 josesinho is nobody
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Default

very nice write up!
josesinho is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-13-2012, 01:01 PM   #11 (permalink)
racist-bigot-sexist-homophob
 
mindless's Avatar
 
iTrader: (43)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Lynchburg, VA
Posts: 11,892
Rep Power: 43 mindless is on a level you can only DREAM about! ! !mindless is on a level you can only DREAM about! ! !
mindless is on a level you can only DREAM about! ! !mindless is on a level you can only DREAM about! ! !mindless is on a level you can only DREAM about! ! !mindless is on a level you can only DREAM about! ! !mindless is on a level you can only DREAM about! ! !mindless is on a level you can only DREAM about! ! !mindless is on a level you can only DREAM about! ! !mindless is on a level you can only DREAM about! ! !mindless is on a level you can only DREAM about! ! !mindless is on a level you can only DREAM about! ! !mindless is on a level you can only DREAM about! ! !
iTrader Score: 43 reviews
Default

Very nice write up.
__________________
Quote:
Tyranny does not always burst through your front door wearing body armor and brandishing an assault rifle. Sometimes, it waltzes through your living room and sweeps you off your feet. Sometimes, it promises warmth and safety. Sometimes, tyranny invites you out to the party and makes you feel like you belong.
Quote:
and yes, i is a accedentally bamf status
Quote:
Holly hell man! I couldn't do that much damage to a motor on a three day weekend/bender with a jackhammer and a quest from the Lord.
mindless is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-13-2012, 04:18 PM   #12 (permalink)
All powerful D-series member
 
ZCHONDACRX91's Avatar
 
iTrader: (47)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Washington
Posts: 3,714
Rep Power: 15 ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....
ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....
iTrader Score: 47 reviews
Default

Thanks, rep'd back to everyone.
__________________
DOHC ZC HX35 CRX Build Thread:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
ZCHONDACRX91 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-13-2012, 07:13 PM   #13 (permalink)
D-series lover
 
Joshk5145's Avatar
 
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Ga
Posts: 222
Rep Power: 9 Joshk5145 is learning the way of the DJoshk5145 is learning the way of the D
iTrader Score: 2 reviews
Default

Nice write up! Just one little thing though

"This is just what I do when rebuilding an engine. I've never had a problem with any engine I built so it works for me. Any other questions just let me know. I'm sure I forgot somethings. Another bit of advice is take your time and half-ass it."
LOL
Joshk5145 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-14-2012, 07:21 AM   #14 (permalink)
All powerful D-series member
 
ZCHONDACRX91's Avatar
 
iTrader: (47)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Washington
Posts: 3,714
Rep Power: 15 ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....
ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....
iTrader Score: 47 reviews
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joshk5145 View Post
Nice write up! Just one little thing though

"This is just what I do when rebuilding an engine. I've never had a problem with any engine I built so it works for me. Any other questions just let me know. I'm sure I forgot somethings. Another bit of advice is take your time and Don't half-ass it."
LOL
Haha, fixed^
__________________
DOHC ZC HX35 CRX Build Thread:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
ZCHONDACRX91 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-25-2012, 03:18 PM   #15 (permalink)
D-series PIMP
 
EJ6Civic27's Avatar
 
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Queensbury, NY
Posts: 1,103
Rep Power: 14 EJ6Civic27 is a name known to allEJ6Civic27 is a name known to allEJ6Civic27 is a name known to allEJ6Civic27 is a name known to allEJ6Civic27 is a name known to allEJ6Civic27 is a name known to allEJ6Civic27 is a name known to allEJ6Civic27 is a name known to allEJ6Civic27 is a name known to allEJ6Civic27 is a name known to all
iTrader Score: 17 reviews
Send a message via AIM to EJ6Civic27
Default

All that work, and you use a graphite head gasket? I prefer MLS gaskets, but.... Nice write up!
__________________


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

a6 Cam/z6 intake manifold/full header back exhaust
Spider RPM tune/3500rpm launch/7200 fuel cut/NGK AFX Wideband


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.




To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


EJ6Civic27 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-25-2012, 04:31 PM   #16 (permalink)
All powerful D-series member
 
ZCHONDACRX91's Avatar
 
iTrader: (47)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Washington
Posts: 3,714
Rep Power: 15 ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....
ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....
iTrader Score: 47 reviews
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by EJ6Civic27 View Post
All that work, and you use a graphite head gasket? I prefer MLS gaskets, but.... Nice write up!
OEM is graphite, DOHC ZC's have seen 350whp+ with that head gasket. No point in spending $80+ for a MLS gasket that I don't need.
__________________
DOHC ZC HX35 CRX Build Thread:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
ZCHONDACRX91 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-26-2012, 07:56 AM   #17 (permalink)
D-series lover
 
iTrader: (0)
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Socal
Posts: 192
Rep Power: 9 24TEN  is slowly gaining respect24TEN  is slowly gaining respect24TEN  is slowly gaining respect24TEN  is slowly gaining respect24TEN  is slowly gaining respect
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Default

No crosshatch?
24TEN is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-26-2012, 02:21 PM   #18 (permalink)
D-series lover
 
iTrader: (0)
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 126
Rep Power: 9 EF_hatch is learning the way of the DEF_hatch is learning the way of the D
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Default

that way of honing cylinders isnt good, you should give 45/60 degress...
EF_hatch is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-26-2012, 07:42 PM   #19 (permalink)
All powerful D-series member
 
ZCHONDACRX91's Avatar
 
iTrader: (47)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Washington
Posts: 3,714
Rep Power: 15 ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....
ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....ZCHONDACRX91 is almost there....
iTrader Score: 47 reviews
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by EF_hatch View Post
that way of honing cylinders isnt good, you should give 45/60 degress...
Quote:
Originally Posted by 24TEN View Post
No crosshatch?
That picture isn't the final hone, I use my cheap hone just to get off any rust or residue so I can get accurate measurements and see any flaws in the cylinder. Final hone was done at a machine shop, nice crosshatching.
__________________
DOHC ZC HX35 CRX Build Thread:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
ZCHONDACRX91 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-26-2012, 10:08 PM   #20 (permalink)
n00b
 
hitoriko's Avatar
 
iTrader: (0)
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Vic. Australia
Posts: 20
Rep Power: 0 hitoriko is nobody
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Default

Question:

Shouldn't you send the bottom end away to get it balanced? or do you just not worry about it because it wont be a high revving engine
__________________
. h i t o r i k o .
hitoriko is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the D-series.org forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Security Question
*Required, this field is not shown to others: While balancing on a piece of wood, two inches by four inches known as a 2x4, john and his friend sally both spotted a dalmatian inside a truck with sirens, headed to put out a fire. State what kind of animal is mentioned in the sentence above.
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


iconAll times are GMT -8. The time now is 07:15 PM. | Welcome to Forum, please register to access all of our features.