How To: Install Mini H1 4.0 Projectors into 96-00 Civic - D-series.org

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Old 08-17-2011, 11:47 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default How To: Install Mini H1 4.0 Projectors into 96-00 Civic

Before we begin, I know the projectors are already in. My passenger side headlight was building up condensation inside so I had to pull them apart to re-seal them. I figured while they were apart, I would write a quick and easy How To!

This How To is for the Mini H1 4.0 projectors off theretrofitsource.com. They are now called the Mini H1 4.1. I don't know what the difference is. I think you can get a different shroud or something. Regardless, the install should be the same.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Tools needed (may vary depending on your car and what screws/bolts are being used to hold the car together):
- Conventional Oven
- Flathead screwdriver (variety of sizes)
- Philips screwdriver (variety of sizes)
- 10mm socket with extension and socket wrench
- Flat surface with sufficient space to work on

I didn't include pictures for EVERY step. Some are self-explanatory. The pictures are click-able thumbnails.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Step 1:
Begin by parking on a flat surface with a flat wall ahead of you (this will come in handy later).

Step 2:
Remove your front bumper and upper grill.

Step 3:
Remove your headlights.

(I only removed my passenger one since that's the one that needed to be worked on):


Step 4:
Set your oven to 225 and wait until it's ready (you can also do this while you're taking your car apart if you've done it before and can do it quickly).

Step 5:
Remove everything you can off of the headlight and then put it in the oven for 10 minutes.

Step 6:
CAUTION: THE HEADLIGHT WILL BE HOT. USE HOT PADS, GLOVES, ETC.

Once 10 minutes are up, pull the headlight out and onto your flat work surface. Take a smaller flathead screwdriver and start to pry open the headlight. Don't worry if you break the little tabs that help hold them together. It happens. The sealant does most of the work anyways. Pry the tabs up and off from the headlight cover and then pull the cover and back part away from each other.

This would also be a good time to put in your other headlight! Just don't forget about it!

You should have this when done:


Step 7:
Once you have your headlight apart, take your 10mm socket and extension and a phillips head screwdriver and remove the 2x 10mm bolts and turn the far left one (adjuster) until the front reflector pops off. You may have to pull on the reflector cone while you turn the adjuster.

TAKE NOTE OF HOW FAR EACH BOLT GOES INTO EACH HOLE!!!! When you go to put them back together later, you'll want to put them in around the same distance.



You should have the following when you're done:


Step 8:
Take a phillips head screwdriver and remove the screw that holds on the halogen reflector.

(It's the bottom empty hole in the pic below)


When you're all done:


Step 9:
Now take out your projectors from the packaging and screw in the shrouds with the 4 long screws provided. Take your time doing it and put them in straight.

Step 10:
Now look at the back of the projector. Remove the big nut and the 3 tiny screws with a phillips head CAREFULLY. You have to apply pressure as you turn otherwise you'll ruin them. They're annoying to put in / take out. Be careful where you set the screws because they are small! Take off the little tab the screws hold on and set that aside with the nut and screws.

When you're done:
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Old 08-17-2011, 11:47 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Step 11:
Once you have the back off, gather the following pieces in the order below:


Here is a mock up of how the parts go on the projector:


Step 12:
Before you put the projector into the headlight, be sure it's right side up. It you look through the front of the projector, you'll see a metal tab that's on a spring. You want that to be down.

Once you've faced it the right way, take the biggest white rubber "washer" and put it on the back of the projector and slide it into the reflector cone (make sure you pull the wire through too!). Next take the H4 adapter plate and put it so the bulge (if you look at it sideways) is facing away from the projector. Then take the other little white rubber "washer" and put it on. Finally screw the nut back on.

Step 13:
After you've got the projector secure in the reflector cone, put the 3 tiny screws and metal tab back onto the back of the projector.

When you're all done, here is where you should be:






Step 14:
Now put the reflector cone back onto the back piece of the headlight in reverse method of taking it off. You don't have to go crazy with the bolts and adjuster. Just enough to they're at least in. You're going to have to adjust the headlights later anyways.

When you're done:


Step 15:
With the headlight cover still off, bolt the headlight back onto the car:


Step 16:
Hook up your HID's and carefully put the bulb into the projector (it takes a little wiggling and struggling. Just DON'T force it in).
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Old 08-17-2011, 11:48 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Step 17:
Turn on the HID's and make sure the cut off is horizontal on the wall. If it isn't, just grab the shroud and GENTLY turn the projector until it is horizontal like so:


Step 18:
When you have the cut off level, turn off the HID's, disconnect everything and remove the headlight. Now is a good time to wipe off any oil or finger prints your hands left when touching all the shiny surfaces. TRS should have provided an alcohol wipe. Do not make the mistake I did and use wet paper towel. It will leave streaks!!! Spray some windex onto a piece of paper towel if the alcohol wipe starts to get dry and you still need to clean more.

Step 19:
Push the headlight cover back onto the headlight as much as you can and then put it back into the oven @ 225 for 10 minutes.

Step 20.:
Once 10 minutes have passed, take the headlight out (CAUTION: THE HEADLIGHT WILL BE HOT. USE HOT PADS, GLOVES, ETC.), and work the headlight back together. Make sure you push the tabs back over the tiny flaps. The tabs may make a click sound when it gets pushed over a tab, you'll know that it's on.

If you feel like the sealant is getting a little hard and you've spent too much time diddling with it, put it back in the oven for however long (based on how cool the sealant is) and work it more again.

Step 21:
Once you're all set putting the headlight back together, put the headlight back on the car and repeat for the other headlight.

When you're done with both, be sure to aim them!!! Park on a level surface, 25ft away from a wall, perpendicular to it, and align them. I've adjusted mine over a dozen times at this point. It may take a few times to find the right spot. Keep driving around and seeing where your cut off lands on cars, signs, etc.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Enjoy your cut off!!!

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Old 08-17-2011, 11:49 AM   #4 (permalink)
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As far as high beams go, the best way to wire them would be to buy an H4 relay harness off TRS. It makes it much easier to wire it. Otherwise, I was told you'd have to use a diode and solder that in between the low and high beam. I didn't feel like hacking and tapping into wires. The relay harness makes everything plug and play and I guess helps with proper current flow (I don't know anything about electrical stuff lol).

The relay harness install is very straight forward and simple. If something isn't working, you have the wires mixed up and it's very easy to troubleshoot.

Last edited by amej8; 08-18-2011 at 03:10 AM.
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Old 08-17-2011, 06:59 PM   #5 (permalink)
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great write up looks nice
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Old 08-19-2011, 08:54 AM   #6 (permalink)
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nice job dude. HID retrofit, such a good project, well worth the effort

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Old 08-19-2011, 03:45 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Awesome write up. I just need to find myself a spare set of headlights then imma get my retrofit project rolling as well!
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Old 08-19-2011, 04:10 PM   #8 (permalink)
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hey man i got my projector kit 2 days ago.
this DIY will help me when it comes time to do mine. i got the hole kit from them
the difference from the 4.0 and the 4.1 is
beefier solenoid inputs, better ground lock-ring threads, a machined (not cast) lock-ring, and an improved reflector bowl coating.
soon when my engine is running again i'll do the retrofit hoping for next week.

thanks again!
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Old 08-20-2011, 07:39 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks all.

Guess I picked a bad time to buy the 4.0's since the 4.1 came out a week after I bought the 4.0 lol. My friend has had the 4.0 for 2 years now without any problems so I'm not going to worry.
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Old 08-23-2011, 03:06 PM   #10 (permalink)
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My original Mini H1 had issues with the cutoff shield being stuck open, but I think the new versions have fixed it completely
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Old 09-06-2011, 06:18 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sde780 View Post
My original Mini H1 had issues with the cutoff shield being stuck open, but I think the new versions have fixed it completely
The 4.0's? I haven't had any issues with them so far and I drive with my headlights on 5+ out of the 7 days a week, high beam use included.
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Old 09-10-2011, 05:54 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Hella clean
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Old 09-12-2011, 08:08 AM   #13 (permalink)
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thats EPIC, i want i want! good work man, i've been looking at projector headlights online like premade and most are too flashy for me i like this i think i'm gunna do it. can you still use your h4 blubs?
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For all you HID needs let me know authorized reseller for sharphid and theretrofitsource!
shit blew up sale thread please helppp

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Old 09-12-2011, 08:58 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hondalx97 View Post
thats EPIC, i want i want! good work man, i've been looking at projector headlights online like premade and most are too flashy for me i like this i think i'm gunna do it. can you still use your h4 blubs?
you can't use h4 HID's you will have to get the H1 bulbs.
I just did my retrofit am going to post some pictures on here soon when I get some night shots and find a good camera.
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