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Old 06-07-2011, 06:17 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default DIY posting a d block

so im going to show you how easy to is to post a block for resisting sleve cracking due to high RPM
NOT boost, since i wont be using the exact critical spots for protecting against boost. This is only
for stibility with rpm's.

im only going to a 75.5 mm bore with this build so ill still have lots of sleves left to dispurse the
load from the posts. i think really thats the only way this works. If you have thin sleves your so much
more prone to crack them, and posting them wont be as effective because you will only be pushing on a small
spot on the sleves maybe 5/16" surface area so with out a thick sleve to dispurse the load you
might end up being more prone to cracking then not posting the block.

i do think a properly installed block guard would be more effective (again only for reving) but that requires
time and money seeing how it has to be made to fit your motor and welded in and milled flat again. you
also need a bore and hone but you will need that after posting the block anyway

so after some reading i have noticed you should put 2 posts per sleve on the intake side and only 1 post per sleve
on the exhaust side. Since the motor rotates towards the intake side so that side has more load on it.(hence the 2
studs on that side)

there are a few site with how to's on them. its a very easy, quite, relaxing job. here is a link to someone
elses how to that i found helpfull even tho it is very stright forward anyway
Block "posting" a D16A1




First take your block move it to a nice clean warm spot. (I chose my kitchen table)




Next mark the spots on you block you want to drill. Try your hardest to keep them all the same distence
from the top of the block and in the center of the sleves mark 2 spots per sleve on the intake side and only
one on the exhaust side.

on the intake side i went 1 3/4" down and the second set of holes was 2 3/4" down also centering each hole on
the sleve

on the exhaust side i only went 1 3/4" down.
**You should put them 2" down and centered on the sleves***





Next Center punch the holes(carefully dont crack the block its only 1/8" - 3/16" thick) drill pilot holes
using a 1/16 - 1/8 drill bit





then start drilling using the proper size drill bit for the tap you are going to use
**you need to use a fine thread tap so you can get at least 4 full thread in the block**
I used a 3/8-24 (3/8-fine) tap so the drill bit i used for that was a size 21/64th



Last edited by Evanguy; 06-07-2011 at 06:20 PM.
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Old 06-07-2011, 06:17 PM   #2 (permalink)
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then you start to tap the holes using the tap that goes with the size hole you just drilled
REMBER to keep the tap lined up STRIGHT to your sleve wall
qutoe from the site i linked to at the top
"a bore/hone job is in order to make sure everything runs true. The stock sleeves are apparently
accurate to .0001", so installing anything that touches them (posts or a blockguard) requires
boring/honing to true everything up."







these are the tools i used to do this job. i work at a machine shop i could have used all the proper gear
but i did this at home to show you that, you can do it with the simplest tools anyone should have.






In a few days ill show you how to take a 3/8" peice of alu. rod and run a die down to to make threaded rod that
we can cut down using a hand grinder and a vice in the size studs we need (1") and then slot the tops for a
flat blade screw driver. I'll show you how to torque them (ONLY 2 FT-LBs) and liquid alu. them in place and
seals them
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Old 06-07-2011, 06:38 PM   #3 (permalink)
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never heard of this process only heard of a block guard. on the DIY. where do you buy these posts?
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Old 06-07-2011, 06:50 PM   #4 (permalink)
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never heard of this process only heard of a block guard. on the DIY. where do you buy these posts?
if you look at the last 6 lines of my post above your comment ill be showing you how to make them but you could get them made at any machine shop its just threaded alu. rod cut down to one inch studs or headless bolts what ever you want to call them. then just cut a slot in the top of them by standing them up in a vive and sliceing down on them woth a 1/16" zip cut to make them fit a big flat blade screw driver.

you just need to get the same thread and size rod that your holes your tapped too. if you use the same tap i did (3/8-24) after drilling the holes with a 21/64th drill bit you can just get a machine shop to make you up a lenth like 15 inches long of 3/8-fine threaded alu. and you can cut it your self. or just buy a die and thread the rod your self a die is around 20 dollars
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Old 06-07-2011, 06:54 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Cool to see some old school block posting. In to see how this turns out
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Old 06-07-2011, 09:22 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Endyn Block Post Kits
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Old 06-08-2011, 03:32 PM   #7 (permalink)
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$36 and they want you to pay for shipping....I don't think so.
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Old 06-08-2011, 04:07 PM   #8 (permalink)
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$36 and they want you to pay for shipping....I don't think so.


also you have to then tap your block to what ever size and thread count those studs are. and i believe they are a coruse thread(after looking at pics of them) and then you only end up with 2.5 threads in the blok instead of 4 full threads
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Old 06-08-2011, 04:36 PM   #9 (permalink)
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The difference in the endyn kit, is they use the same grade aluminum as the block uses so that it expands at the same rate. If you just use some random aluminum rod it won't expand right and cause problems. Also, this doesn't help as much as you think, just like a block guard.
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Old 06-08-2011, 04:48 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Id trust a block guard more than posting.....and a sleeve cracking due to high rpm? really?.....Im skeptical at best on that one. How high of RPMs are you talking about?

Good diy though
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Old 06-08-2011, 05:05 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Lets not turn this into a block guard vs posting debate or even a debate about if its worth doing or not.

It has been discussed here before, so lets not de-rail this thread.
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Old 06-08-2011, 05:13 PM   #12 (permalink)
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cracking starts in the middle-2/3 area

blockguards only stiffen the very top, which is useful only in helping maintain the seal of the headgasket



I will be posting my block when I do my build in spring 2013. you can easily match the grade of aluminum of the block. I actually already have the rods, it cost me a little over $10 for 4 feet. My dad has been welding aluminum for 20 years, and knew exactly what to get. (he is also gonna help me grind and reweld some "features" onto the block!)

EDIT the rod is 5/8 thick, plenty of material to take off from threading it
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Last edited by mattliston; 06-08-2011 at 05:30 PM.
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Old 06-08-2011, 05:29 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Ive never heard of a D cracking a sleeve due to RPMs before, how high are you planning on revving this?

Im curious as its pretty much the first Ive ever heard of this. Buddy of mine is telling me he has heard of it on the H series before.

Not saying its not possible, you just peaked my interest
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Old 06-08-2011, 06:05 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Im curious too. Because Im running 30 psi from a 6262, and revving to 9600. Stock sleeves. No posts or guard. No cracked sleeve yet.
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Old 06-09-2011, 09:07 AM   #15 (permalink)
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its very easy to get pure alu cast rod to thread so its the same as the block. also im not sure how high you can rev with this setup I plan on revving to 9k i know stock sleve would do that fine but i just did this for fun/something to do/try it out.

also your sleves flex and then crack at the load point in the middel of them from where the piston changes directions from down to up. but it you stiffen the tops of the sleves there wont be any vibrations or movement with them so your sleve only have to deal with the load not the vibrations and load. if you can elimate half the problem by stopping the sleves form moving, chances are way less of cracking them do to piston load.

block posting has been done since the 60's its very old and its only good for open deck block so nowadays there arnt many open deck blocks so you dont hear about it all the time. its mostly hondas with them.

if you dont like what you are reading please stop reading. also if you dont under stand whats going on please done flame my thread.

Last edited by Evanguy; 06-09-2011 at 09:11 AM.
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Old 06-09-2011, 09:27 AM   #16 (permalink)
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you sound like you read a lot. thats cool. but its hard to tell BS from the truth



if the cylinders were vibrating, how do you think the head gasket is able to maintain a seal?
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Old 06-09-2011, 09:36 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Rust-eze medicated bumper treatment. Just a suggestion lol.

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Old 06-09-2011, 10:52 AM   #18 (permalink)
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...I actually already have the rods, it cost me a little over $10 for 4 feet....

Now that sounds right. I found a 6ft long A356-T6 3/8'-32 threaded rod for $24 when I looked into block posting. I still have plans to post just no funds to build the motor yet.
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Old 06-09-2011, 03:49 PM   #19 (permalink)
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you sound like you read a lot. thats cool. but its hard to tell BS from the truth



if the cylinders were vibrating, how do you think the head gasket is able to maintain a seal?
by movement i mean maybe 2 or 3 thousandth's of an inch back and foreth at high rpms like 7k and above.
but then once your motor gets a few hours above 7k or 8k on on it that is when this help its. most pople dont spend hours at a time about 7k. but if you do this will help

take what you want from this. if you dont like my way you can do it another way i was just trying to show how easy it is and get the idea back out there.

Last edited by Evanguy; 06-09-2011 at 03:52 PM.
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Old 06-09-2011, 04:13 PM   #20 (permalink)
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It's a good DIY, the logic is there. It's just I've seen a few posted blocks that still had cracked sleeves. It helps, but won't prevent the sleeve from cracking it mainly postpones it. Also, I remember endyn saying that you tighten the posts to just 4-8 in/lbs. You get rep for taking the time to post this.
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