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Old 01-03-2011, 03:39 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default DIY Distributor Seal Replacement

Disclaimer: This write-up is intended for informational purposes only, to be used in conjunction with the appropriate knowledge, skills, service manuals, documents, equiptment, tools, and common sense necessary to complete this repair.

Now that my ass is covered...

I know it is a fairly common problem for Honda's to have issues with oil leaking into the distributor cap. And I've had an almost constant misfire because of rusted trigger wheels on a new reman distributor so i replaced the center section of mine with one i picked up from a junkyard, and replaced the seal to solve the problem permanently.

Tools Needed: phillips screwdriver, 10 & 12mm sockets and ratchet, seal pick, felt tip pen, and a nice ice cold beer.



First thing i did was mark the distributor and the head so I could keep the timing right when re-installing the distributor.



Then we have to remove the distributor cap. Remove the cap and leave the wires on to make things a lot easier
This is the problem we're fixing here. Clearly there is a slight problem here with all the oil under the cap.



Here you can see the rusty crank trigger wheel and some of the oil residue.



Remove the (3) 12mm bolts holding the distributor to the head, and note the position of the rotor so the distributor can be installed properly when you're done. I also had an oil leak where the housing meets the head, a new O-ring will fix this.



Now that the distributor is off the car the fun part can begin. Start by removing the rotor screw then lifting the rotor off of the shaft.



Next are the coil and ignitor. I have an external coil so I can't show you how to remove it, but it is just (2) small phillips screws connecting the wires and (2) more holding the coil into the housing. The ignitor comes out by removing the (2) screws shown here on either side of the screwdriver. You can use tape and a pen to mark the wires to the ignitor so they go back in the right place.



It should look similar to this now.
Next remove the (2) screws that hold the number one position sensor to the top of the housing. Marked by the green lines.

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Old 01-03-2011, 03:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The C-clip on the bottom comes out next, I used my seal pick to pry up one end and chased it around until it was off. Then you can remove the pin that the clip retains.



Now remove the (3) screws that hold the center assembly to the housing and lift it out. Marked by the green lines.



Here you can see the difference between the three month old remanufactured shaft and the junkyard replacement.



Once the shaft is out you can see the seal and the mess that it caused.



I was this far so I decided to wipe out the entire housing so I removed the other two sensors.



To remove the seal the easy way, I stabbed my pick through it from the bottom and pryed a little bit and it came right out.




Install the new seal using a seal driver or a socket that has a slightly smaller diameter being careful to tap it in square to the housing. I used my 5/8 spark plug socket and a 6" extention. Be sure to lube the seal with some motor oil to be sure that it won't tear.



Installation is the reverse of removal. If you removed all of the sensors you should be able to tell which one is which by the length of the wires, or you can number them w/ a silver sharpie before they are removed.
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Old 01-03-2011, 04:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
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niceee. good way to make a car run better, and keep oil LOL
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Old 01-03-2011, 04:05 PM   #4 (permalink)
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excellent writeup, repped!

and i vote STICKY!!!! but you should add where you got the seal from, a link or something.
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Old 01-03-2011, 04:06 PM   #5 (permalink)
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nice job

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Originally Posted by schardbody View Post
but you should add where you got the seal from, a link or something.
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Old 01-03-2011, 04:48 PM   #6 (permalink)
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wow i did this exact thing a while ago... nice.
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Old 01-03-2011, 04:53 PM   #7 (permalink)
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place to buy the seal and part number?
Majestic shows it as buy a new unit .....

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Old 01-03-2011, 05:12 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by schardbody View Post
excellent writeup, repped!

and i vote STICKY!!!! but you should add where you got the seal from, a link or something.
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place to buy the seal and part number?
Majestic shows it as buy a new unit .....

Honda Automotive Parts
Got the seal from PartsTrain.com - Hard to Find Auto Parts and Truck Parts - Pretty much the going rate for the seal anywhere else. I paid around $18 for the seal w/ shipping.
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Old 01-03-2011, 05:37 PM   #9 (permalink)
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very nice write up. Rep'd
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Old 01-03-2011, 05:38 PM   #10 (permalink)
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very nice write up. Rep'd
X2, good job man
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Old 01-03-2011, 05:42 PM   #11 (permalink)
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very nice write up. Rep'd
thats a job well done
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Old 01-03-2011, 06:14 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Good write up

Rep coming your way.
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Old 01-04-2011, 01:00 AM   #13 (permalink)
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love the right up man, you posted just in time for me to tackle the oil leak i got on my car lol.
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Old 01-04-2011, 03:03 AM   #14 (permalink)
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reped I was looking for pics of the various toothed wheels in the distributor.
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Old 01-09-2011, 05:02 PM   #15 (permalink)
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do you have to replace the trigger?
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Old 01-09-2011, 07:23 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Good write up.
Thanks
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Old 01-09-2011, 07:33 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Nice write up. Wish I would have known this.
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Old 01-10-2011, 12:17 AM   #18 (permalink)
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i dissembled it like 5 times, i had oil in the last sensor and ecu started going in limp mode sometimes....

Even when i replaced the seal i had to clean it again 2x, use some petrol or alcohol(something that evaporates quickly) ...now its fine
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Old 01-10-2011, 05:18 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Nice write bro
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Old 01-10-2011, 11:37 PM   #20 (permalink)
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do you have to replace the trigger?
The trigger wheels do not have to be replaced. I only did so to fix the misfire problem that I had
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