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Old 11-29-2010, 07:57 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Resurface your head and block for under $10

This is an old trick for those that do not know. I popped a head gasket on my motor because the previous owner smeared Hondabond all over it.... WTF?

Anyhow I took it apart and had to clean it so I bought sharpening stone and performed this oldskoool trick.

Combination Sharpening Stone
and some WD 40 or lubricating oil.

ALWAYS REMEMBER FLAT TO FLAT - Never bevel edges always have the stone flat and supported at both ends by the block or head. Plug all your oil and coolant passages with paper towels.


You can see the excessive Hondabond.......


Finished product:


I ended up using Permatex High Tack as an added precaution on the new gasket but probably did not need it. all you need is a light dusting.
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...et_Sealant.htm
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Old 11-29-2010, 08:07 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Hmmmm. I woulda never thought of that, nice trick. (:
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Old 11-29-2010, 12:47 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Why not just use some 1000 or even 1500 grit sand paper on a block of wood? Either way, + rep for DIY
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Old 11-29-2010, 01:12 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Id be careful with a block of wood. Id rather spend the money on a blocking tool used for body work, and some 800 wet or something.

Sharpening tool seems cool and creative. But Id still be a little weary on that thing being perfectly flat too.
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Old 11-29-2010, 01:17 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I just use it to clean off old gasket material and freshen it up not really taking lots of material off.
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Old 11-29-2010, 01:17 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Pass.

BTW, it isn't uncommon to use a very light oat of RTV around the oil drain back passages on the head gasket when putting an LS-VTAK together as the passages between the block and head do not match worth a damn and tend to make them weep oil.
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Old 11-29-2010, 01:21 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by snm95ls View Post
Pass.

BTW, it isn't uncommon to use a very light oat of RTV around the oil drain back passages on the head gasket when putting an LS-VTAK together as the passages between the block and head do not match worth a damn and tend to make them weep oil.
no no my friend the previous owner covered the whole gasket with Honda bond and besides gasket being used is Cometic LS Vtec Hybrid which matches the embossed areas to the holes in head and block for the odd combination
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Old 11-29-2010, 01:44 PM   #8 (permalink)
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no no my friend the previous owner covered the whole gasket with Honda bond and besides gasket being used is Cometic LS Vtec Hybrid which matches the embossed areas to the holes in head and block for the odd combination
That's just retarded.

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Old 11-29-2010, 01:51 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I wouldnt do this. maybe back int he day like when it was done.
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Old 11-29-2010, 06:45 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Honestly I wouldnt trust a sharpening stone. They are rarely flat to begin with and often wear very unevenly. If I was desperate or just REALLY cheap I might do this with a nice long flat file though, that is how I usually fix messed up exhaust manifold surfaces and it works great.
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Old 11-29-2010, 06:52 PM   #11 (permalink)
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is this motor up and running again?
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Old 11-29-2010, 06:59 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Like I said, I would consider blocking it like you would a body panel. Maybe even spray paint the surface for a guide coat.
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Old 11-29-2010, 07:15 PM   #13 (permalink)
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...to save $30 I'll pass. any small scratch is a potential leakage spot.
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Old 11-29-2010, 07:54 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by wizard's blood View Post
is this motor up and running again?
279-285 PSI on all cylinders 15k miles on the engine
All I did was clean the block and head of garbage I did not try to mill it. Just gave it a clean surface.

@ Neonpinhead the finish on the stone is finer than a milled spec surface from the machine shop with no down dime
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Old 11-29-2010, 08:15 PM   #15 (permalink)
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i do this all the time i jus use a straight edge and feeler gage and level to spec. only prob is the measuring u have to do it in a specific manner, nice diy btw!
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Old 11-29-2010, 08:37 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by l337h4l View Post
279-285 PSI on all cylinders 15k miles on the engine
All I did was clean the block and head of garbage I did not try to mill it. Just gave it a clean surface.

@ Neonpinhead the finish on the stone is finer than a milled spec surface from the machine shop with no down dime
too smooth is bad you know that right?

i wouldnt trust a sharpening stone as far as i could throw it even if i was just removing shit from the surface.
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Old 11-29-2010, 09:00 PM   #17 (permalink)
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next time just grab the head, put it flat on the driveway, and slide it against the cement ridges, that will flatten it right up lmfao

JUST KIDDING

but seriously i would rather have a professional machine shop machine my stuff then try to do it myself...

but +1 to you for creativity
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Old 11-29-2010, 09:31 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by l337h4l View Post
I just use it to clean off old gasket material and freshen it up not really taking lots of material off.
Even using scotch brite pads or wire wheel brushes can warp the surface finish of a head by 0.0020...specifically on aluminum heads and blocks

YouTube - Nissan SR20-DET Block Resurfacing
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Old 11-29-2010, 09:39 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DemoFly View Post
Even using scotch brite pads or wire wheel brushes can warp the surface finish of a head by 0.0020...specifically on aluminum heads and blocks

YouTube - Nissan SR20-DET Block Resurfacing
My thoughts exactly.
I very much doubt that the surface of the stone is flat to within a few thousandths, let alone the idea that you could slide it across a surface that accurately.

As someone who has a fair bit of experience running a mill, I understand how incomprehensibly small these kind of tolerances really are, which is why I am appalled by this...
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Old 11-30-2010, 03:56 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdm_trai View Post
i do this all the time i jus use a straight edge and feeler gage and level to spec. only prob is the measuring u have to do it in a specific manner, nice diy btw!
After the refinish was done I checked the head and block to make sure it was in tolerance with a machinists straight edge. Reason for pulling the head was it overheated to 230 degrees

Quote:
Originally Posted by cervan View Post
too smooth is bad you know that right?

i wouldnt trust a sharpening stone as far as i could throw it even if i was just removing shit from the surface.
It was recommended by my machinist who originally built the motor that had 30k miles on it

Quote:
Originally Posted by DemoFly View Post
Even using scotch brite pads or wire wheel brushes can warp the surface finish of a head by 0.0020...specifically on aluminum heads and blocks

YouTube - Nissan SR20-DET Block Resurfacing
Scotchbright pad and wire wheels will warp the head when you put it on a DA or drill and heat up the aluminum.
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