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Old 12-07-2009, 05:48 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default DIY EH/EG half radiator in an ED/EF

Alright, so my radiator was leaking pretty bad. EF full radiators are hard to come by, well, more hard than halfies...and i couldn't find a very good write up for putting an halfie in an EF. Other than the options of cutting cross member, hood, making custom brackets, blah blah.

This might not be the way you'd do it. But it works, and its a start.


Tools/Supplies needed:
-Basic sockets, wrenches, screwdrivers.
-Some sheet metal to make a bracket out of. That exhaust hanger crap would work pretty well too, but that looks to shitty, even by my standards.
-A dremel, or cut off wheel.
-A drill
-A bolt or screw to hold the bracket in place.
-A friend or two to help, patience, and some food is always nice too.
-Coolant.

1. Jack front of car up, this is especially helpful if you're EF is lowered, saves your back some pain.

2. Make sure car is cool, drain your coolant. Make sure you remove your radiator cap when doing this. It allows the coolant to flow much quicker. Dispose of properly.

3. After coolant is drained, you can then remove your radiator. This involves removing the two brackets that are on the upper sides of the radiator, the upper radiator hose, and lower radiator hose. Also, you must remove the line that goes to the coolant overflow tank, which is located near the drivers side motor mount. I also removed the battery, and my intake, just to get some more room.

After that, you should be to this point.



4. Alright, this is where things start to get interesting, as you can see here, the half radiator is much taller than an EF full radiator.



4. I set the radiator in, where it sat at its lowest point.


This also allows the upper and lower radiator hose to sit in just about exactly there stock positions. So that's a very good plus.

I started looking around, weighing out my options, the tilt just didn't look good at all. Hacking the cross member looked to be a huge pain in the ass.

I decided that cutting a section of the under skin of the hood is where i would start.

I had layed down underneath the car, armed with a light, and had a friend shut the hood, while i marked with a sharpie where the radiator cap, and dowel pin on top of the radiator, were hitting the hood.

From here, i went to town.

This is what i ended up with.



No, im not the best cutter in the world. Im gonna go back and clean the cut up abit. lol.

i had a friend go underneath the car, and hold the radiator in place, to see if it cleared.


SO CLOSE. The support on the hood under the skin was still hitting. Simple solution, cut slits in the side of it, and bend it down.


Voila! It shut fine.


Sweet, that's one obstacle down.

5. Now, you have to make some sort of bracket to hold the radiator in place.

This was pretty easy, i had some about 1 1/2 in sheet metal sitting around, drill a hole in it the size of the dowel on the top of the radiator, bent in two 90 degree angles, of the appropriate height, and drill another hole in the bottom of the bracket. Then drill a small hole in the front crossmember, or whatever you wanna call that piece up front the old brackets for the fullsize radiator used to bolt to, and the hood latch is on. That piece.

Put your bracket on. Make sure the hood still shuts. If it does, move ahead, if not, adjust your bracket.

6. Now, remove that bracket, b/c you have to put your lower radiator hose on. And its not easy.

This part was by far the hardest of the hole process.The stock radiator hose is about 1/8in smaller than the EG radiator hose.

This is how i went about getting it on.

Heat, and lube. And a LOT OF ELBOW GREASE. And time. I used a bit of 5w-30 on my finger, rubbed the inside of the hose, heated the hose up a bit with a propane torch. DO NOT BURN IT, ONLY HEAT IT, just enough to soften in up a bit. Then just start working it, eventually it will stretch a bit, and when it does, hose clamp it. It took two of us to do this, one person holding the radiator, while i shoved that hose on, and tightened the clamp. PITA, but it worked eventually.

7. Once the lower hose is on, its pretty much smooth sailing from here. But the hose on the t-stat housing, apply your hose clamp there. The upper radiator hose didn't go on nearly as hard as my bottom one did, i was able do it alone, with out any issue.

8. Put your bracket back on, to hold the radiator in place.

9. Fill back up with coolant, and distilled water mix. Put overflow tank back on, bleed system, start it, let it get to operating temp, and enjoy!




AFTERNOTES.

There are a couple of this i didn't cover in this write up,

1. A lower mount for the radiator.
Mine doesn't move around that much with only the top mount, so it isn't that huge of a deal. If it is to you, then I'm sure you could fab something up using the stock bracket for the normal full size ef radiator. I'm not gonna worry about mine to much yet.

2. A radiator fan.
Honestly, when i got done last night, it was about 11:30 at night, and i just wanted to sleep at that time, because i was supposed to work today at 8 this morning. Unfortunately, i seem to have caught the flu, so now i'm spending my time writing this HOW TO. Lol. Anyway, i don't think the stock fan is a bolt on thing, the mounting bolt holes dont line up....not that i saw anyway. I'm gonna order a slimfan, and call it a day. The OEM Fans are like 2.4 or 3 inches thick anyway, DO NOT WANT! lol.

3. The overflow tank.
On the stock full size radiator, the line to the overflow runs along the top of the radiator, to the overflow near the drivers side mount. On the EG radiator, its on the the back of the radiator, pointing towards the engine bay, this is inconvenient because it shoots a random line right over your header if you run it to the stock overflow position, and looks super messy. So for now, my line is just ran straight down, to the ground. I hate it, but it got me home last night, I think im gonna order a universal coolant overflow tank, and mount somewhere where i dont have to run a line all over the place. Or find a way to mount the line.




There are other ways of putting a halfie in, i know. But this is the route i went, and it worked fine.


Hope this inspires someone else, this is my first write up. Woot! Rep me if you like it!
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Old 12-07-2009, 05:48 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Heres a few for the road....





Ugh, winter has started. All i want for christmas is grip.


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Old 12-10-2009, 12:02 AM   #3 (permalink)
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looks good mang
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Old 12-10-2009, 12:28 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Nice Write up, thanks.
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Old 12-10-2009, 07:49 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Where's the EF?
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Old 12-10-2009, 09:02 AM   #6 (permalink)
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wheres the EG?

thats most likely what the problem was... EG rads and B16 del sol rads use larger rad hoses.

an EH rad shouldnt be hard to get the stock ED hose on.


teeheeheehee
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Old 12-12-2009, 08:50 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I personally wouldn't like to hack up the underside of my hood to fit a radiator. But this is not my writeup. And it works for you, and maybe some other people, so props for the DIY. That positive battery terminal doesn't concern you touching your intake?
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Old 12-13-2009, 05:20 AM   #8 (permalink)
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You all need to relax with the Chassis code usage around here. Up until like the past six months, it was "EF, EG, EK, EP, blah blah blah." Now whenever the JDM chassis code is used, everyone freaks out.
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Old 12-13-2009, 08:28 AM   #9 (permalink)
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You all need to relax with the Chassis code usage around here. Up until like the past six months, it was "EF, EG, EK, EP, blah blah blah." Now whenever the JDM chassis code is used, everyone freaks out.
lol,

There's plenty of bad grammar and misrepresentation on the site, but chassis code seems to be the no no.

On topic, have you noticed if the engine heats up more quickly?
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Old 12-13-2009, 08:45 AM   #10 (permalink)
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lol,

There's plenty of bad grammar and misrepresentation on the site, but chassis code seems to be the no no.

On topic, have you noticed if the engine heats up more quickly?
Lol, Chassis grammar police.


This might sound wierd, but i swear it heats up slower. I work about 1.5 miles away from home...and i used to be able to reach op. temp by the time i got there. Now the car is JUST getting warm when i get to work. And i dont have a fan or anything right now. It seems to stay cooler too, but maybe my last radiator was just junk, and this is normal. Idk. But to answer your question, no, it does not heat up quicker.
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Old 12-13-2009, 04:45 PM   #11 (permalink)
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just giving you a hard time.. you havent even been on the site for 6 months


what did u do about the drain plug?

i have a friend who some how has an EH rad in his ED, with no cutting to anything, and no lean at all... it mystifies me. LOL
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Old 12-13-2009, 04:55 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Magic.

There is a company that makes half radiators for the EF. I dont remember who it is though.


drain plug is just a bolt, one of the ones with the allen head, so you can put it in flush. Bought it at my local ace hardware.
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Old 12-13-2009, 05:13 PM   #13 (permalink)
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ah cool.

he cut the "butterfly" off of his so it would fit better. makes it tough to get off but w/e.

i think his is a dual core from a DOHC del sol.
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Old 01-12-2010, 11:36 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Im doing this to mine, Ill let you know how it turns out.
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Old 01-12-2010, 11:47 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Looks good to me! Although the battery terminal and intake pipe sketch's me out a bit lol.

Had some bad arching events in the past.
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Old 01-12-2010, 11:50 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4d00rEF View Post
You all need to relax with the Chassis code usage around here. Up until like the past 2 years, it was "EF, EG, EK, EP, blah blah blah." Now whenever the JDM chassis code is used, everyone freaks out.
Fixed.

And use the correct damn chassis code.
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Old 01-12-2010, 02:17 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Rad from a EG can fit into a EF without cutting the hood.

All you need to do is cut the lower rad support a bit and it'll drop down low enough. Upper rad hose holds it forward and the lower hose holds it up

The hack the hood trick has been around for quite some time.



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Old 01-12-2010, 06:15 PM   #18 (permalink)
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see, mine must be super tall or something, bc my drain petcock is resting on the crossmember, and the hood most definately wouldnt have cleared.
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Old 01-12-2010, 06:17 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Or you can run a traction bar with mounting tabs for a half rad. Then it fits like stock
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Old 01-12-2010, 06:19 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I have a dual core half rad and I had to take the webbing out of my hood otherwise the rad cap would hit.
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