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Old 03-10-2008, 01:47 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Default electrical help

Here 's the problem: 95 Honda ex with the stock d16z6


The honda will idle fine. When i turn my lights, heater or radio on it starts to lose voltage at the battery. Im an electrician so im not stupied about this. My battery is brand new, Just bought it. My alternator is also brand new. I just bought it too. If i unhook the positive side of the battery while the car is running It still runs. But if i turn the lights on or anything else it dies completley. Im guessing i have something going ground somewhere. Or is there anything else i need to try. Any ideas would be helpful.

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Old 03-10-2008, 03:02 PM   #2 (permalink)
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not to be a dick, but just cuz its brand new doesnt mean its gonna work properly.

what voltage does it drop to when you turn on lights, etc.? can i get a voltage when idle, when each device is turned on, and when the vehicle is off?

what was the last thing you did to the vehicle? have you tried an idle current draw test yet? (see my sticky)
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Old 03-10-2008, 03:13 PM   #3 (permalink)
 
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Its cool. At Idle it drops about 1/2volt for every thing i turn on at first, but then it just keeps on droping till it dies. My alternator pulls 14.4 volts with the battery unhooked. If the car is turned off it does about the same 1/2 volt, it might last for 5mins then its dead. If i let the car idle for 10mins with every thing off the alternator will charge the battery up to about 13.6. Im 99.9% sure its not the alternator is not the problem because the old one that i just took off tested good at advance auto. And this is actually the oringnal problem. THanks for helping
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Old 03-10-2008, 03:14 PM   #4 (permalink)
 
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Sorry I cant do the amp draw tonite. I most have blew a fuse in my meter awhile ago..I will pick one up tommorow at work and get u that test tomorrow nite
....Any thing else to try??

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Old 03-10-2008, 06:03 PM   #5 (permalink)
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ELD maybe?

Electric Load Detector

I'm no EE, just throwing out ideas.
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Old 03-10-2008, 08:20 PM   #6 (permalink)
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sounds like your voltage regulator isnt working the way it should.
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Old 03-11-2008, 02:27 AM   #7 (permalink)
 
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Do u know how to check if thats the problem?
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Old 03-11-2008, 02:57 PM   #8 (permalink)
 
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Im only drawing 12.2 on my amp draw test... how do i test the ELD? And where is it at?? Im at a loss here, I dont know where else to look
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Old 03-11-2008, 03:21 PM   #9 (permalink)
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12.2 amps with the vehicle off?? could a relay be staying open?
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Old 03-11-2008, 04:01 PM   #10 (permalink)
 
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im not losing any voltage over nite. I might of had the meter on the wrong setting... I think i used 20m on the meter. I only lose voltage when i actually turn something on. Like my lights. Another thing....If my car is running and i disconnect the positive side of the battery my car still idles , but if i turn anything on it cutsoff. I did notice that i need a new alternator belt. Do u think the belt could cause this????
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Old 03-11-2008, 04:43 PM   #11 (permalink)
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as i see it:

there is enough current to start the vehicle and let it idle. (car battery can hold a charge)

when any current-drawing device is turned on, car dies. (since an alternator is rated in amps, it "regulates" how much current can be used safely in a vehicle.)

so...if you draw more current than the alternator can produce, it comes from the battery. and since the vehicle dies when almost anything else is turned on, im assuming the alternator cannot produce its rated output and almost immediately relies upon battery power...the exact reason why you need an alternator to begin with.

my first conclusion is that maybe the alternator is defective in some way. i think it would be easier to distinguish the problem if you can find a replacement battery and swap it first. just my opinion
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Old 03-11-2008, 09:44 PM   #12 (permalink)
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even if the battery is completely dead, if the alternator was good the car would run regardless of what you turn on. so basically the altenator isnt charging for one of 2 reasons: ELD or bad internal voltage regulator
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Old 03-12-2008, 02:41 AM   #13 (permalink)
 
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This is my second alternator. THe first one tested good when i took it off the car. The battery is brand new. How can i check the Eld or internal voltage regulator???????
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Old 03-12-2008, 03:06 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by banshee_rider95 View Post
This is my second alternator. THe first one tested good when i took it off the car. The battery is brand new. How can i check the Eld or internal voltage regulator???????

if the voltage regulator is bad, it will allow more than 14.4v to be generated. the regulator actually restricts voltage so you dont fry all your electronic shit in the car. you can measure that at any constant b+ source (ie...white wire under dash or whatever).

as far as ELD...google it?
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Old 03-12-2008, 04:19 AM   #15 (permalink)
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ELD cannot be tested. You can test all the circuits leading up to it though, download a free factory service manual, it will tell you how to do it, and they are floating around everywhere for free. As far as the ELD, the only way to know if it is bad or not is to replace the main fuse box (in the engine bay, the ELD is built inside of it) with a KNOWN good one.
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Old 03-12-2008, 09:09 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rattmann316 View Post
if the voltage regulator is bad, it will allow more than 14.4v to be generated. the regulator actually restricts voltage so you dont fry all your electronic shit in the car. you can measure that at any constant b+ source (ie...white wire under dash or whatever).

as far as ELD...google it?
no, a bad voltage regulator can either allow an overcharge or undercharge
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*1990 EX 4dr*
B18C1 w/ CTR pistons, B16 head, skunk2 valve springs, crower stage 3 cams and CBR1000 Throttle bodies

*1993 LX 4dr*
H23A1, QSD H2B kit, GSR trans, log mani, HX35, 27x7x2.5 FMIC, 2.25" ic piping

My ride thread:

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Old 03-12-2008, 02:33 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
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no, a bad voltage regulator can either allow an overcharge or undercharge
i learned differently at hondas ohio training facility. the idea of the regulator is to prevent too much current/voltage; kinda like a wastegate in a turbo setup.
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Old 03-12-2008, 05:26 PM   #18 (permalink)
 
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Yeah so i think i figured it out....I feel like an ass. I think the belt was so worn that it was sliping on the pully.. I just changed that today and it seemed to be working fine.. Go ahead and make fun of me
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Old 03-13-2008, 12:32 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Yeah so i think i figured it out....I feel like an ass. I think the belt was so worn that it was sliping on the pully.. I just changed that today and it seemed to be working fine.. Go ahead and make fun of me
I would, but I made $30 "green" for changing an alt belt on a geo metro because it was worn out. Took me 10 minutes, no one was paying attention and just BSing. Geo Metro belt was easy!

That was spring 2004, the "green" lasted until spring 2007......not printed on paper

His Geo would charge fine witout the headlights on, but going home at night it was JUST enough to kill the battery so it wouldn't start the next day. If he could roll start it, it would be fine to get to work and MAYBE the drive home.
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