EG ignition coil kill switch neg/or/pos side??? - D-series.org

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Old 03-29-2014, 02:09 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Post EG ignition coil kill switch neg/or/pos side???

i got a kill switch kit from online site and want to know if what side can i put a kill switch on my ignition coil. says the neg side? but i want to make sure. i will tap into my dizzy wires in the outside harness. inline i believe is the yellow/green striped wire. i will make the switch inline with a mini switch.

is it okay to do this kill switch. ive already drilled the place of the kill switch and its hidden under my dash driver side. the wire is like routed outside to the negative wires of my ignition coil dizzy wire.

i need to finish this kill switch asap. ive got my car stolen once and i don't want to let it happen again. i have a simple fuel pump but the guy still started it.
i hide a battery kill switch with a special key also.


will my ignition coil kill switch be fine??

please let me know thanks...
NEG coil/ or Pos coil for my kill switch.

online says that if i use the positive side it can burn the car down. is that true??

i will be using the negative wire also the instructions says to use the negative coil wire with the kit i bought..

neg or positive wire for my kill switch...
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Old 03-29-2014, 08:43 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I would normally think you'd want to use the positive side, as is with house wiring and typical simple circuit design but it sounds like there are nuances to the circuit I'm not privy to. So, if the kit says negative then, I'd do negative...
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Old 03-29-2014, 08:49 AM   #3 (permalink)
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They normally use neg because if the wire gets broke it doesn't short out.
I normally used ground to kill stuff. But then again I use relays and they feed there own power, the way I set it up.
Right now I kill my ignition 2 with some relays and a keypad.

But the main things to kill are :
spark vs dizzy or ignition.
ecu power
Fuel pump power
Starter solenoid wire.
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Old 03-29-2014, 09:14 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Best to use the ground.

DC voltage basically follows a loop. So you can break that loop anywhere and get the same result.

And in actual scientific terms, the electrons actually flow from negative to positive!
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Old 03-29-2014, 10:58 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Best to use the ground.

DC voltage basically follows a loop. So you can break that loop anywhere and get the same result.

And in actual scientific terms, the electrons actually flow from negative to positive!
i will use my switch at the negative side.
do u know if i need a relay or anything can i extend the wires from under my dash? i will soder the outer dizzy wire with long wires to the switch. the kit i bought don't say anything about relays or something so i think its safe. also it included like 6 feet of wire. i have a mini switch included with my kill switch kit i bought as an online kit its really small. do the switch need to be a specific amp rating if i use the ignition coil negative ground ????
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Old 03-29-2014, 11:02 AM   #6 (permalink)
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wait a sec what exactly are we doing here by isolating the coil? As far as I know it grounds through the distributor housing.

It might be better to use a switch and relay on the main power to the ECU instead of using a switch or relay on ignition components.
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Old 03-29-2014, 11:10 AM   #7 (permalink)
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always use a rely when doing kill switchs.

If im understanding you right you want to kill the dizzy.
this is the pin out


What are you trying to cut? The ICM should be power for the spark. the other wires are mainly for reading the timing.
And grounds out through the housing.
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Old 03-29-2014, 05:41 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by xile6 View Post
always use a rely when doing kill switchs.

If im understanding you right you want to kill the dizzy.
this is the pin out

What are you trying to cut? The ICM should be power for the spark. the other wires are mainly for reading the timing.
And grounds out through the housing.
im cutting the yellow/green stipe wire from the harness and routing a switch under the driver side panel. it is a negative wire of the coil. the kill switch kit i ordered says to use the negative side of the coil. also included like 7 feet of wire. i try to wire the yellow/green stripe wire inline series with the switch.
i already wrapped the wire with wire loom and lots of electrical tape incase anything would ground. what amp rating switch do i need??
it came with a puny little switch.
i want to make sure i need a bigger one incase.
what size amp switch is enough?
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Old 03-29-2014, 06:42 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-VXEG View Post
im cutting the yellow/green stipe wire from the harness and routing a switch under the driver side panel. it is a negative wire of the coil. the kill switch kit i ordered says to use the negative side of the coil. also included like 7 feet of wire. i try to wire the yellow/green stripe wire inline series with the switch.
i already wrapped the wire with wire loom and lots of electrical tape incase anything would ground. what amp rating switch do i need??
it came with a puny little switch.
i want to make sure i need a bigger one incase.
what size amp switch is enough?
Your miss understanding that wire.
It will have power on it.
it's the main power for the spark.
If you really want to use it. Then relay into it with a ground or power trigger.

I don't like messing with that wire tho as it controls the timing.
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Old 03-29-2014, 10:37 PM   #10 (permalink)
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kill the grounds....
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Old 03-31-2014, 05:20 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Use a dual-coil latching relay, control it with a spdt or dpdt momentary switch. It uses zero power when it's flipped either way, and all you do it rock the switch to activate or disable it.

The cheapest option from digikey is PB963-ND for ~$6.50 and can carry 16 amps. 255-1490-ND is ~$28.75 and offers blade-type connectors and can carry 15 amps. Most other cheaper "telecom" dual-coil latching relays will work with the ecu or main relay kill, since that's only 1-2 amps.

After having the bulky 30A relays kill my batteries from a few days of storage, I got smart and used this. I have them kill the main relay (which is relocated into the dash) & enable secondary maps that only allow the engine to start & idle. One nice thing is they can't disable this relay unless they remove my dash & do some rewiring.
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Old 04-06-2014, 03:45 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Use a dual-coil latching relay, control it with a spdt or dpdt momentary switch. It uses zero power when it's flipped either way, and all you do it rock the switch to activate or disable it.

The cheapest option from digikey is PB963-ND for ~$6.50 and can carry 16 amps. 255-1490-ND is ~$28.75 and offers blade-type connectors and can carry 15 amps. Most other cheaper "telecom" dual-coil latching relays will work with the ecu or main relay kill, since that's only 1-2 amps.

After having the bulky 30A relays kill my batteries from a few days of storage, I got smart and used this. I have them kill the main relay (which is relocated into the dash) & enable secondary maps that only allow the engine to start & idle. One nice thing is they can't disable this relay unless they remove my dash & do some rewiring.
okay if i use the negative wire at the coil wire i used the yellow/green currently to a 25 30 amp on/off switch. i cut the outside wire from the distributor side connector. i inline spliced the yellow/green wire routed under my dash to the switch. i checked the wire and it says (-) minus so ground specifically on the coil when i removed the dizzy cover. the wire is really long from dizzy to the under hidden are in my dash. i have this setup for a while now and i don't have any trouble. works fine without any trouble. does it affect timing my engine sounds the same???

if i do this way do i need to really wire a relay????
and if i do need to do a relay how do i install a relay for it im not really familiar with doing relays. and how to hook them up..
thanks....
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