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Old 02-09-2014, 02:59 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Blew 60A Battery Fuse

I'll try to be as brief as possible.

-1991 CRX Si

-Innovate LC-1 powered from under dash fuse box switched 12v terminal

-Analog Oil pressure, analog Boost, and Narrowband AFR gauges powered from radio fuse using a fuse tap. There is no radio installed

-12v laptop charger plugged into cigarette lighter (8 amp max input)

-The narrowband AFR gauge and LC1 are both grounded to the t-stat ground as recommended by innovate.

-The oil pressure and boost gauge back lights are grounded to the lug under the dash near the steering column

-All grounds are hooked up secretly. Alternator cable is thoroughly insulated with extra rubber (it's very close to contacting the bottom of the supercharger)

Today I had the key in the first on position and was using the laptop to send the ROM to ostrich. The wideband was warmed up.

Put the key in the second on position, fuel pump primed, all dash lights came on as usual

Put the key to cranking position and the 60A battery fuse blew.

Aside from a short to ground somewhere, what else might have caused this?

This setup was previously working without issue
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Old 02-09-2014, 03:20 PM   #2 (permalink)
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weld on the car at all?
thats the way i blew one in the crx
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Old 02-09-2014, 03:26 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Nope
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Old 02-09-2014, 03:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Something is arcing. Theres 12v touching the chassis somewhere. Most common place is in the radio wiring. Id start there, especially since it doesnt have one. Also if you have your battery relocated make sure the main battery cable is not touching the chassis anywhere as well.
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Old 02-09-2014, 03:39 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I dont think just any 12v short could cause this unless its coming from the dizzy. 60amps?
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Old 02-09-2014, 03:53 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by racejunke13 View Post
I dont think just any 12v short could cause this unless its coming from the dizzy. 60amps?
yeah to blow the main fuse and to do it when putting the key in "start", it has to be something with a lot of power.
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Old 02-09-2014, 03:58 PM   #7 (permalink)
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yeah to blow the main fuse and to do it when putting the key in "start", it has to be something with a lot of power.
thats what I am saying i cant imagine anything with the ecu putting enough to blow 60 amps maybe a alternator short while starting/running?
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Old 02-09-2014, 04:08 PM   #8 (permalink)
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So everything that I've wired in that I listed above is fused with a 10 or 15amp fuse and those are in tact. Will double check all the wiring though.

All of the OEM radio wiring harness is in tact and simply unplugged.

Battery is no relocated. Brand new positive and negative battery cables too
Engine harness is also new and uncut or modified in any way
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Old 02-09-2014, 04:09 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Had a kid come in just last week that was popping main fuses. The culpret.....12v radio wire arcing. All depends on how its hooked up. This was also why I mentioned the battery cable, especially if its relocated. Its safe to assume every honda you see, or work on, made prior to 00 has been modded over and over again. Especially when it comes to stereo equipment, gauges and so on. People hook things up all kind of moronic ways and you never know what kind of fool owned your car before you, lol.

Edit: not sure if "moronic" is an actual word, just sounded good at the time, lol.

Id also like to add anytime you tap into an ACC switch wire for an accessory and it arcs somewhere, the main fuse is going to pop. This is something many people do and they do it without adding at least an inline fuse.
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Old 02-09-2014, 04:15 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by dfanatic View Post
Had a kid come in just last week that was popping main fuses. The culpret.....12v radio wire arcing. All depends on how its hooked up. This was also why I mentioned the battery cable, especially if its relocated. Its safe to assume every honda you see, or work on, made prior to 00 has been modded over and over again. Especially when it comes to stereo equipment, gauges and so on. People hook things up all kind of moronic ways and you never know what kind of fool owned your car before you, lol.

Edit: not sure if "moronic" is an actual word, just sounded good at the time, lol.

Id also like to add anytime you tap into an ACC switch wire for an accessory and it arcs somewhere, the main fuse is going to pop. This is something many people do and they do it without adding at least an inline fuse.
you calling me out in my moronic ways
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Old 02-09-2014, 04:18 PM   #11 (permalink)
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you calling me out in my moronic ways
No sir, just simply stating that previous owners of our civics can do some serious damage when they do their "upgrades", lol.
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Old 02-09-2014, 04:20 PM   #12 (permalink)
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No sir, just simply stating that previous owners of our civics can do some serious damage when they do their "upgrades", lol.
I actually feel sorry for people that fix my harnesses just ask sleepinciv bout my wiring upgrades
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Old 02-09-2014, 04:54 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Ok so I found a spot on the wideband 12v that had a male/female spade that was exposed and looks like it could have possibly touched something near the pedal assembly. What's strange is that the 10A fuse on he fuse box didn't blow so I can't see how that would have been it even if it did ground out
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Old 02-09-2014, 04:59 PM   #14 (permalink)
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thats weird it has to be something else then
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Old 02-09-2014, 06:37 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Did it make a couple cranking revolutions first?

I ask because if so....my thought would be either starter or something in the dizzy...something that's going to take a lot of juice(starter) or something that's going to create it...(dizzy..maybe even alt)

But since u did notice something on the wideband.....
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Old 02-09-2014, 06:53 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Ok so I rechecked and the 10amp wideband fuse is still good. I fixed the exposed spade connection though.

The alt is not grounded on anything.

I did, however, notice that the 2 wire dizzy plug is in pretty bad shape. The blue wire looks like it was damaged by a scotch lock an he other wire looks like it may be breaking at the plug. I guess that'll be the first thing I replace

Edit: no cranking revolutions, immediate fuse blow action
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Old 02-09-2014, 06:56 PM   #17 (permalink)
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that's gotta be it that's the second thing I thought was the dizzy
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Old 02-09-2014, 08:15 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Pretty much everything mentioned above is fused on a smaller circuit. These would blow the smaller circuit dedicated fuse before the main battery fuse.

The only person I see mention it is neubie...the starter. It's the only thing that pulls that kind of amperage at start.
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Old 02-09-2014, 08:42 PM   #19 (permalink)
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So right now the battery is disconnected and a new 60A fuse is in place. I noticed that I have continuity between the 60A fuse and all ground locations.

Excuse the stupid question but this isn't normal right? I shouldn't have continuity between the 60A battery fuse and the chassis grounds?
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Old 02-09-2014, 08:59 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Is this with both battery terminals disconnected or just the negative? It's not normal either way.

Try unbolting the main battery feed to the starter and recheck. I think you have a short in the starter.
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