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Old 01-15-2004, 03:21 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default D16Y7/Y8 MINI-ME WRITE UP (56k, maybe not)

This is a write-up of my y7/y8 mini me. And since no one has ever done a write up on a 6TH generation mini-me, i've done this Bauleycivic style, though with less detail.


This swap was performed using a 1996 D16Y8 head which was mated onto a 1997 D16y7 block. I also swapped my pistons and rods for those from an 89-91 D16A6 for more compression.

pictures of my particular y8 head: http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=720018

What you need to buy:
New coolant and oil
d16y8 head
d16y8 head gasket
new head bolts

AND HERE WE GO: REMOVING THE OLD HEAD
1. drain the engine of coolant and engine oil
2. disconnect all coolant hoses, sensors, throttle cable, exhaust manifold and bracing from the y7 head (leave the y7 intake manifold attached--it makes the head easier to lift)
3. remove the spark plug wires and valve cover from the y7 head
4. unbolt the distributor from the head, and lay it aside, it's unnecessary to remove the dizzy from the engine bay
5. remove the 10 head bolts
6. double-check to make sure nothing else is still attached to the head, and then remove it from the block

now make sure the block is nice and clean, and if you are going to replace your internals like me, this is the time to do it, just drop the oil pan, and remove the rod bolts and pop the pistons out of the top of the block.

oh yeah, next time you hear someone talk about the bottom end of a d-series being unstable, take off the oil pan of a y7 and you'll notice a solid piece of aluminum, at least 3 inches wide tying the main caps together. :thumbup:


PUTTING THE NEW HEAD BACK ON:
FIRST MAKE SURE THE #1 CYLINDER IS AT TDC by rotating the crank usign the crank pulley bolt and that the cam is adjusted to straight up position.

1. spray the y8 head gasket with copper spray and put it in position, then replace the two spacers in the block.
2. lay the head on the block carefully, making sure everything goes on smoothly
3. torque the head bolts following the factory sequence
4. reattach all of the various sensors, timing belt, coolant and vacuum lines, and whatnot to the new head.

Also, at this time, replace the P2E ECU with the P2P from the EX trim level civic. Also be sure to refill the motor with the proper amount of oil and coolant.

NOTE: we did not change the timing belt on my car as it was in near-perfect condition. that is why i have omitted this information from the write-up

Making it all work: this is the tricky part as there are a wires that will need to be either rerouted, spliced, eliminated, or disregarded.

1. The throttle body is a possible point of difficulty, the easiest way is to use the Y8 throttle body and y8 IACV on the head. In order to do this with the y7 wiring harness, you will need to take two spade connectors and connect them to the two prongs on the male side of the IACV connector, the connect these two wires to the three-wire female plug on the y8 wiring harness, being sure to disregard the orange wire. You will need to swap wires A12 and A14, and then disconnect wire A13 from the plug at the ECU.

2. To wire VTEC, you will either need some pigtails or you can just run two wires through the firewall, to the ECU, one coming from the VTEC solenoid and the positive wire from the VTEC pressure sensor. Be sure to ground the negative side of the VTEC pressure sensitive to somewhere on the chassis. Route the VTEC solenoid wire to socket A8 and the pressure sensor to socket C15 (at the ECU)

and i believe that is that!

and here are the pictures:

new pistons VS old pistons:
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...MXk1NDE%3D.jpg

infinatenexus checking a couple of sensors
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...MXk1NDE%3D.jpg

so pretty:
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...MXk1NDE%3D.jpg

putting the dizzy on:
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...MXk1NDE%3D.jpg

the old head:
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...MXk1NDE%3D.jpg

the pretty, prepped block:
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...MXk1NDE%3D.jpg

nice...
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...MXk1NDE%3D.jpg

even after 67k miles, the cylinder walls still had the cross-hatching from the factory:
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...MXk1NDE%3D.jpg

if i missed anything, please let me know.
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Old 01-15-2004, 04:04 PM   #2 (permalink)
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good stuff soccaian
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Old 01-15-2004, 07:58 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Good write-up. I just got done doing this myself except I went OBD1 with a P28. What compression are the D16A6 pistons supposed to yield in this setup? By the way I am still having a few problems myself with a couple of things, and one happend to be the idle. In your case you might try turning the idle screw in a bit to see if that makes a difference if you have already cleaned your IACV. I dosconnected the coolant lines from my throttle body and my cold start idle is terrible. At least I hope thatis what is causing it.
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Old 01-15-2004, 08:16 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IDriveHonda
Good write-up. I just got done doing this myself except I went OBD1 with a P28. What compression are the D16A6 pistons supposed to yield in this setup? By the way I am still having a few problems myself with a couple of things, and one happend to be the idle. In your case you might try turning the idle screw in a bit to see if that makes a difference if you have already cleaned your IACV. I dosconnected the coolant lines from my throttle body and my cold start idle is terrible. At least I hope thatis what is causing it.

the pm6 pistons will yield approx 10.6:1 compression

we ended up having to convert the wiring over to a two-wire IACV as described in the write-up.

and yes, the coolant bypass will cause the poor cold start idle.
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Old 01-15-2004, 08:25 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I got lazy and picked up an Si wiring harness which made things a bit easier. So you did get you idle fixed? Thats good stuff. Now I just have to figure out why I am throwing an O2 code ocassionally after highway driving. Cars seems to want to run rich after awhile. I guess it is time to pick up a new O2.
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Old 01-16-2004, 06:32 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IDriveHonda
I got lazy and picked up an Si wiring harness which made things a bit easier. So you did get you idle fixed? Thats good stuff. Now I just have to figure out why I am throwing an O2 code ocassionally after highway driving. Cars seems to want to run rich after awhile. I guess it is time to pick up a new O2.

yeah, i noticed the same thing with my car... it likes to run rich... oh well, i guess its now time to put that comp cams stage 2 cam in!
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Old 03-04-2004, 01:58 PM   #7 (permalink)
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so in the y7 block is there not an oil thingy in the block you have to remove like the other swaps... also can you perform the swap without getting a new ECU... if you can how do you do it

I have a y8 intake manifold, head, TB, FPR, fuel rail and what not
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Old 03-04-2004, 04:37 PM   #8 (permalink)
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no, there is no oil jet in the y7 block.... you could do the swap without swapping ECU's, but if you do, you basically negate the whole idea of the swap, since you won't be able to use VTEC
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Old 03-04-2004, 05:32 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I'd like to start off by saying nice writeup.

A few commentsthough. The coolant bypass should not cause cold start problems as long as you don't live somewhere where the temperature never gets above 10 degree. I've done it on all of my cars for the past 6 years without issues and we have some cold winters here in Oklahoma. If you take apart the IACV and look at where the coolant flows you'll see what its for. It's just to keep it from freezing up while the engine is running. The bypass makes removing the IAVC and throttle body much nicer.

Running the Y7 ECU won't negate the swap. Sure the maps are going to be off. But a VTEC controller will activate VTEC just as well as the ECU.
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Old 03-04-2004, 07:12 PM   #10 (permalink)
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so basically the vtec controller plugs into ur rpms, ur air ratio shit... so then one wire goes to your vtec and the controller lets u adjust air fuel ratio and at what rpm to turn on vtec.... is this correct... I am am talking about the Vafc controller
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Old 03-05-2004, 03:44 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slebidia
I'd like to start off by saying nice writeup.

A few commentsthough. The coolant bypass should not cause cold start problems as long as you don't live somewhere where the temperature never gets above 10 degree. I've done it on all of my cars for the past 6 years without issues and we have some cold winters here in Oklahoma. If you take apart the IACV and look at where the coolant flows you'll see what its for. It's just to keep it from freezing up while the engine is running. The bypass makes removing the IAVC and throttle body much nicer.

Running the Y7 ECU won't negate the swap. Sure the maps are going to be off. But a VTEC controller will activate VTEC just as well as the ECU.

you are correct, i suppose i was under the impression that the IACV was temperature dependant, as when stock, the idle would be high when the engine was cold, then drop back down when warm.

but i think my low idle problem came from bad cam timing, not the IACV...
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Old 07-06-2004, 10:18 PM   #12 (permalink)
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just a bit of an upper after seeing all these mini-me threads

btw... the only CEL i have now is from the fuel tank pressure sensor.... everything will be all good when i switch to OBD1
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Old 07-07-2004, 10:25 PM   #13 (permalink)
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good stuff, questions

1. my y8 throttle body is scrapped, i ((think)) the tps ( if what i'm looking at is the tps) is junked, the metal prongs are all bent and the thing itself is cracked ( partly my fault but the prongs where all screwed up to begin with) its the black thing on the TB that seems to be attached via some sort of "punch bolts" cuz i sure as hell dont have a clue how i would take it off... or put a new one on

having said that, could you resuse the y7 TB with the y8 IM??

2. knock sensor? how did u bypass that little problem??

3. you bypassed the timing belt install.. you still had to take it off and put it on again, can u expand please?

4. i was looking at my engine bay today, seems to me like it would be a pain in the ass to get to the crank bolt, how hard was it for you?

5. did u ever end up unbolting the driver side engine mount to work with the timing belt assembly + crank pully??

thats all for now.
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Old 07-08-2004, 02:44 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 7thGear
good stuff, questions

1. my y8 throttle body is scrapped, i ((think)) the tps ( if what i'm looking at is the tps) is junked, the metal prongs are all bent and the thing itself is cracked ( partly my fault but the prongs where all screwed up to begin with) its the black thing on the TB that seems to be attached via some sort of "punch bolts" cuz i sure as hell dont have a clue how i would take it off... or put a new one on

having said that, could you resuse the y7 TB with the y8 IM??

2. knock sensor? how did u bypass that little problem??

3. you bypassed the timing belt install.. you still had to take it off and put it on again, can u expand please?

4. i was looking at my engine bay today, seems to me like it would be a pain in the ass to get to the crank bolt, how hard was it for you?

5. did u ever end up unbolting the driver side engine mount to work with the timing belt assembly + crank pully??

thats all for now.
ok...

1) yes, that is your TPS, people say you can remove it my cutting slots into the top of the bolt with a dremel or hack saw, then unsrew them.
You can use your y7 tb with the y8 IM, you will need to block off the hole going to the iacv though. (with the tb on the car, looking directly into it, it should be at the 7 or 8 o'clock position.) i blocked the hole with a layer of reflective duct tape (it is shiny)

2) i wired a knock sensor in. your best plan of attack will be to get a knock sensor before you do this swap, and to install it into the block while you have the head off, as it is a pain in the ass to do from underneath (you'll see why when you put it in) and then wire it according to this :
that particular CEL went away after i wired it like this.

3) for the timing belt... just leave it on the car. you can either simply unbolt the cam gear and knock it off the cam, try pulling it off of the gear itself, or remove the cam from the head. Be sure everything is at TDC before you pull everything apart.

4) i didnt even touch the crank bolt... my timing belt was in nearly perfect condition (still had the ridges on the inside of the teeth)

5) nope... didnt unbolt any mounts... its a really straight forward procedure.
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Old 09-01-2004, 08:57 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soccaian
the pm6 pistons will yield approx 10.6:1 compression

we ended up having to convert the wiring over to a two-wire IACV as described in the write-up.

and yes, the coolant bypass will cause the poor cold start idle.
This is true I finished a mini me but using the A6 block and am very pleased. for everyone out there wanting to use the A6 block DONT FORGET THE OIL CONTROL JET. The A6 block does have to worry about this.

Great info guys this site rocks!
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Old 11-15-2004, 04:11 PM   #16 (permalink)
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you can also use your stock ecu and wire the vtec to a shift light
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Old 11-17-2004, 11:44 AM   #17 (permalink)
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what about using a y8 head on a d15 block-in other words i need to go thru and do a basic rebuild on myu 93 civic with the 1.5, im converting to 5spd at the same time, i do have a p28 ecu and a complete y8 head...how bout the y8 head on that block? ne help would be great!!
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