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Old 01-15-2005, 07:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
crx304
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Default *** LS Rod Swap ***

***LS Rod Swap***



things you need:
calipers or micrometers
4 ls rods, preferibly w/ same journal #s
1 of your old rods
1 d series wrist pin
12" of silicon bronze (avail @ Crower for $60. shipped)

a lathe
a surface grinder
a drill press
a verticle press

now for my motor i chose to use new Wiseco pistons w/ spiral lock pins.

i reccomend that you get them shotpeened before you machine them, *remember to put the old bearings in them before shot*.

step 1:
measure your stock (old) rod on both ends where it looks machined, twice. (i say twice just so you're sure of what the measurement is)



step 2:
measure the ls rods in the same locations, twice

step 3:
math time!!! subtract the ls rod # from the si rod # and divide by 2.
these are not actual #'s but....
(ls).936" - (si).896 = .040" / 2 = .020" that you have to grind off of each side of the rod. now you should do this for both ends of the rod, but i only did it for the crank journal end and left the other end normal so that the pistons didnt have a chance to wander under high rpm.

step 3:
it's time to goto the surface grinder. (DICSLAIMER) now if you have never used a surface grinder or lathe before, find a place that has a skilled hand to do this. because there's a 95% chance that you will scrap a rod and you will scrap all of the bushings you're about to make.

grind the equeal ammount off of each side of the rod in light passes. approx -.005 Z travel at first, and .001 for finish. now they don't have to be *deadly* but make them as close as possible! Grindhand should take his time grinding. you do not want these heating up.

double check measurements and compare ls to si rods.... happy? ok... to the lathe

step 4:
*same disclaimer as above*.
take your round of silicone bronze and chuck it up in the lathe. 900rpm @ 1.5 IMP. measure the inside of the ls wrist pin journal (should be .827") and measure the si pin (.748 )

start turning...... only do one bushing at a time. length is about 1 inch to allow for cutoff bit.


now you're gonna have to oversize the "OD" of the bushing so that it won't spin in the rod, .8285 is perfect (use a good set of micrometers on this!!!)

take the OD to .8285", now it's time to do the ID. get your .625 drill and sink it about 1." into the end of the rod. next comes the carbide boring bar. take small passes when your close to your #. take the si wrist pin and make sure it "glides" in and out real nice, NO SLOP!!! dont forget the chamfer. grab the cut off bit and cut that baby off.

repeat for the next 3 rods

step5: sand the edges and debur the bushings... be carefull tho, there is only .030" wall. these will bend easier than you think.

step 6:

press the bushings in using a verticle press. make sure it's straight, guys. you don't want to have to make any more of these than you have to.


step 7:
Ream. get on the drill press and run it at about 100rpm, travel down slowly, and use alot of thread cutting oil.

now it all depends upon what pistons you are going with. like i said i went w/ Wiseco that have spiral locking pins. so i decided to make the pistons free-floating. if that is the case, use a .749" reamer.
if you are going to press the pins in you have to go w/ a .747" (or pressfit 19mm).




chamfer the other side on the drill press, that you wern't able to do in the lathe.




well i think that's about it...
good luck!
and if you're unsure that you can do it... find someone that can

lates..
mike

just to clear some things up:

now, when i ordered my acl bearings the LS and A6 were the same part #'s

no, there is not any machining needed to be done to the A6 block!

for really good (i mean SUPER CHEAP) prices on ACL bearings($19.65 for the set of rod bearings and $29.68 for the set of main bearings) and rebuilding parts go here... www.autohausaz.com !!!
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Old 01-16-2005, 02:15 AM   #2 (permalink)
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damn, nice writeup!!
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Old 01-17-2005, 05:33 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Sorry But It has some things that I don't trust in your way to do it.
I'm experimented machinist and tool maker, I can tell:

- You should use Vernier caliper only for reference in distance, micrometer is for real measurements. A Mitutoyo or the same quality has +- .0015 to .002 of precision, think about cheap one +- .003 ?

- Reaming bushing with reamer is another way to do crap and scrap your job already done, we use drill reamer when precision isn't there, like location dowel pins or something who need only little bit more than a normal drill. It should be better to use a milling and boring head the same is a small job AFTER you pressed it in rods (then you have more material to don't bend bushing too). Reamer aren't precise, depending on rpm, material, wear, and many many things.

- Not to piss on you, but for the time and price it tooks, Crower have nice bushing kit for LS rod swap, it not worth to do it and take a chance to do it by yourself, maybe one of them isn't right and you don't see it, so it will go to major problems...
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Last edited by Belette; 01-17-2005 at 06:07 AM.
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Old 01-17-2005, 02:14 PM   #4 (permalink)
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point heard and appreciated,

to answer your questions:

if you look at the background in the vernier pic you will see that it is at my desk at home, my Digimatics, mics and other toolmaking equipment is at work. i just used the verniers i had here to illustrate, so that people wouldn't ask.... " where do you measure them?"

very true about the boring head but how would you know that you are at your datum, when you have nothing to go off of? not to mention the set-up time on 4 rods. i mean... the entire outside is cast steel and there isn't anything to locate off of to make sure it is concentric w/ the "old pin hole" ..... but i like your thinking....

and yes, when i called Crower the guy said that he offered them, but he was kind of "sketchy..... or.....pesimistic" about the whole deal. so that is why i said "screw it, give me a foot of it (silicon bronze)"

sure i could have bought 4 of them, pushed them in, possibly bent one or two of them, had to buy more, and then threw them on my pistons. but being a toolmaker myself i had enough confidence in myself to do it and make sure it was done right. besides, you should have felt how those pins glided in..... no slop whatsoever!

the engine has 2500 miles on it now and sees 15psi daily. so yea, i think mission accomplished

thanks for your input tho.

mike
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Old 01-17-2005, 02:19 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Yeah you're right too ! I don't know crower send you an whole piece of silicone bronze...

It's sure you have to setup 4 times with boring head, but you can do with not much time

But if it last, very well, it don't need much precision, I'm toolmaker, I work with .0001'' of inches...

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Old 01-17-2005, 05:27 PM   #6 (permalink)
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hey, those acl bearings don't come with thrust bearings do they? they don't mention them and i didn't see them listing them anywhere.
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Old 01-17-2005, 05:36 PM   #7 (permalink)
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sweet writeup man. i have a set of LS rods in my room. i was always going to do this but never have. awhile ago i heard that crower stopped selling the bushings because of customer complaints (im sure they crushed a bushing and then cried to crower about it).....maybe thats why the guy was like that on the phone. anyways good writeup for sure...rep for you.
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Old 01-17-2005, 05:46 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lohatch
sweet writeup man. i have a set of LS rods in my room. i was always going to do this but never have. awhile ago i heard that crower stopped selling the bushings because of customer complaints (im sure they crushed a bushing and then cried to crower about it).....maybe thats why the guy was like that on the phone. anyways good writeup for sure...rep for you.
But I think some aftermarket pistons already have 21mm wrist pin, and OEM GX ones have already 21mm too. Nice to use GX slugs/ls rods for N/A with some nitrous on it
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Old 01-17-2005, 06:24 PM   #9 (permalink)
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yah that was a big rave about a year ago, i read a lot about it, but never got any real straight answers on it. anybody ever build one???
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Old 01-17-2005, 07:34 PM   #10 (permalink)
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look for "thrust washer" in "engine parts, seals and gaskets"
this is for d16a6: http://www.autohausaz.com/catalog/lo...Token=58827589
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Old 06-04-2005, 04:19 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Back from the dead!

There isn't a thrust washer option for the Z6. The A6 thrust washers should work though, right?
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Old 06-04-2005, 05:21 PM   #12 (permalink)
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cool beans. i'll check it out. i feel like such a traitor right now cause i've been giving my other car more attention, kinda cause i have to. it's constantly breaking somehow. what do you expect with a swap.
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Old 11-13-2005, 11:01 AM   #13 (permalink)
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One thing that should be mentioned too, is that this material will get hot and expand slightly when being turned, cool it with a wet rag and then take your measurements. It sucks when you machine it perfect and then when it cools it slips into the hole it was supposed to press into. I prefer the finish a reamer provides, but you have to play with the speed and feed to get it right.
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Old 11-13-2005, 05:54 PM   #14 (permalink)
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hey boy, machinist know what he does. Coolant and oiled water are used since 100 years ago in machining process. Heat is the first enemy of the machinist and I think I will know it .

I am a machinist too, and I don't like heat :P
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Old 11-13-2005, 07:18 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Nice Writeup Man!!!!
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