Honda D Series Forum banner

D17A1 Mini-Me Swap.

24K views 37 replies 12 participants last post by  speedfoos 
#1 ·
Looking to know how pricey and what would be needed to do so. I have a 2001 LX 1.7L D17A1. I'm looking to put a EX d17a2 vtec head. What would be needed to do so? I don't really have the cash to do a k20 or b16/18 swap, so thanks for suggesting it but it really wont do me any good. Thanks for the help.
 
#2 ·
You need the following:

x1 EX Head with all the sensors (going rate is about $225)
x1 OEM head gasket set (IDK, check www.hondaautomotiveparts.com or get an offbrand one on Ebay for $50 - I've used them, they work fine)

Now at this point you have a few options:

1. EX ECU + EX wiring harness + EX thermostat housing with EGR valve (If your new head comes with an EX thermostat housing and you want to use it).

Get an EX ECU (about $100) and wiring harness (about $50), plug everything in nice and easy, drive it to the dealership and have them reflash your key to match the ECU so your immobilizer light goes off. This is probably the easiest, but you have to replace the wiring harness (not difficult, but if you're new it can be intimidating). Plus you don't have to mess with tuning (I'll get to this), and you can use the EGR valve on the EX thermostat.

2. EX ECU + LX thermo housing. Not recommended as the ECU will look for the EGR valve and throw a code if it doesn't find it.

3. LX ECU + Apexi VAFC (around $200). Physically install everything and wire in the VAFC to control your VTEC solenoid. You will have to tune the car yourself to engage the VTEC, or find a tuner who will work on the VAFC. You do get some more features with the VAFC that may make this worthwhile, you don't have to swap the ECU and the harness and you can find VAFCs for a reasonable price. Also if you go this route, I know a few folks who have done this and can put you in contact with them to help you with the tuning.

You can pick up a plug and play VAFC harness from Boomslang (www.boomslang.us) for $140 or you can wire it in yourself.

Hope this helps.
 
#22 ·
Okay, so i'm going with the first option you've listed. I've bought the EX head, Gaskets, the EX ECU, and the EX ecu wiring so far. Whats the point of replacing the thermostat housing, and getting a different EGR valve? The housing from the LX and EX are identical in my eyes. Thanks for clearing things up.
 
#4 ·
Most expensive option is using a Hondata Kpro ECU. But all you will have to do is wire the VTEC solenoid wire. Doesn't need EGR valve or VTEC oil pressure sensor wiring. It will run you roughly 1400$. Not a cheap solution but I just thought I'd throw the idea out there.

Best choice in the long term if you plan to build the motor.
 
#7 ·
^^^This motor (d17a1) is OBD2...meaning you cannot use any other HOndata system than KPro. It can also not be swapped over to OBD1 since there is coil on plug ignition. SO the s300 is out of the question. I would say go the VAFC2 route. I'm gonna be trying that soon as well.
 
#15 ·
First off, if you use a vtec-switch or button or whatever, that is not in combination with the ecu it will not add fuel to the mixture wich will give you less effects from the high cam profile. Secondly if it stays in vtec at lower rpm's (like with a button) it could starve the engine for oil at idle.
 
#17 ·
It will still work with the D17A1 fuel tables. Won't be optimum power but it wont cause any detonation or damage. The fuel change is so minimal going into VTEC on this motor. You'll actually be running rich for most of the part throttle with the non vtec ECU because the D17A2 seems to use alot less fuel in the low cam.
 
#18 ·
vtec in these motors is just for 12 to 16 valves anyways so its all the power or none eigther you go from 12 fuctionals valves to 16 or just stay at 12 i may be mistaking but this is what makes sense to me correct me if im wrong vtec-e
 
#20 ·
Honda officially calls it just VTEC in the D17. Under low load and cruising up to a certain rpm, it operates 12 valves normally with the other 4 intake valves openning about 1 mm or so. Under medium to high load all valves function normally.

The goal here is to save fuel. The 4 intake valves opening slightly creates a swirl effect helping to mix the air and fuel in the cylinder.
 
#28 · (Edited)
okay, so far.. I ended up buying a whole EX engine for $300. i pulled the head and just going to swap it directly. Has everything on it, the noid, new thermo housing ect. I have the EX ECU but, i can't find a wiring harness anywhere. I was wondering if i could just use my stock LX harness and just wire in the vtec solenoid becuase thats about the only extra plug i see.

oh and another question. I'm looking into a vtec controller, not sure of the VAFCII will work on the D17. main reason is being able to toy with the RPM's the vtec engages at.

Thanks for you help.
 
#30 ·
Yeah, it will work that way. Probably the easiest way to do it if you can actually get vtec to engage.

As for the egr, I would have to check the manual to see if there's an actual code for the egr. It could be just a generic "emissions" code, but I haven't had issues with it so I'm not sure.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top