2001 Honda Civic EU1 auto to manual conversion - D-series.org

Go Back   D-series.org » Motor Mayhem & Suspension Satisfaction » 7th Gen

D-Series.org is the premier Honda All Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 08-19-2012, 06:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
n00b
 
iTrader: (0)
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Kingston, Jamaica
Posts: 29
Rep Power: 0 Nitrous1024 is nobody
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Default 2001 Honda Civic EU1 auto to manual conversion

For the past couple months, I've been admiring the spirited performance of the K20A. *As such I've been contemplating doing a complete K-swap or just boosting my current D15B. *I'm also in the middle of an auto to manual transmission conversion, so I'll need to make a decision quickly. *I've already gotten the manual shifter and pedals from a EP3 Si (recall that I have the 5 door EU1), so now I'm waiting on 2NR to order for me the shifter cables and master clutch cylinder. *Since I got impatient, I had already put in the manual brake pedal myself and stripped out the carpet to relocate the park brake (which is foot operated).

Here, I've posted videos of my slow progress thus far (you have to click to play). *I finally figured out where the cable linkages for the park brake were located as I had originally thought that it was hydraulically operated. *Now I want to figure out how to move it to the center so that I can attach a hand brake to it. *I had already purchased a ES1 Civic handbrake (handle and ratchet assembly) thinking that it could be work.

Note: in the videos below, I was very exhausted having working in the engine bay for the majority of the day before getting around to stripping the interior. You'll have to click on them to play the videos as I had used PhotoBucket to upload them.







Many photos and videos of what's actually going on is missing as I didn't get the time to upload them as yet (720p videos take a while to upload on my connection) so I should have this fully documented tomorrow.
Nitrous1024 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 08-19-2012, 06:22 PM   #2 (permalink)
n00b
 
iTrader: (0)
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Kingston, Jamaica
Posts: 29
Rep Power: 0 Nitrous1024 is nobody
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Default

On Saturday, I took the car to Superior to get the conversion done as I didn't have an engine hoist to raise or gently lower anything or a breaker bar for those stubborn (ceased-up) bolts. *Upon arrival, Superior was going to charge me more than three times what was discussed over the phone and through emails. *My personal mechanic had migrated months ago, so I had to call around for someone to do the work. *No matter what time of day I call, I can never seem to get Little T on his cell (except once weeks before) no matter how many voicemails I left. *A coworker recommended me to his personal mechanic (on Lyndhurst road) so I made the link and took the car there. *I agreed with his price, so he got the work started. *He removed the axles, subframe and lowered the automatic transmission in no time. * Thats when things begin to go horribly wrong. *The Olympics was still being aired on TV (I chose the wrong weekend for this project) and the number of broken parts during the removal process was slowly racking up. *This resulted in several taxi rides to Superior's used parts section. * Either way, the conversion process wasn't going to be finished the same Saturday (and the garage isn't opened on Sunday) so the work will have to be resumed on Monday.


Monday morning, I went down there to find this:




A clickable video for comparison:


For those of you who know my car, the glass is supposed to look like this:



It goes without saying how upset I became about the situation. *Then I got depressed when I saw this:



Let's put the above on hold for a moment while I get back to the conversion process.
Nitrous1024 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-19-2012, 06:24 PM   #3 (permalink)
n00b
 
iTrader: (0)
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Kingston, Jamaica
Posts: 29
Rep Power: 0 Nitrous1024 is nobody
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Default

The gearbox went in quite nicely. *I had to buy a new axle seal as they tore the last one in the removal process. *I'm trying to rememeber the proper name of the splined portion of the half-shafts (with the metal circular clip) that slides into the differential. *I had to replace the "left" one with a "right" one from Superior as the "left" one was too long and wasn't fitting in the seal and wasn't going to fit up with the knuckle either on the other end (as it would be sticking out too much). *In other words, the car now has two "right-hand" set of splines going to the open differential in the gearbox. *I'll re-write this better when I get the proper terms to explain it.


After bolting up the clutch, it came out to be about an inch and a half higher than the other pedals and feels ridiculously stiff (we definitely removed all the air bubbles from the line so now I feel like re-introducing a few to make it a little spongy). *As it is, my left knee is rubbing on the steering wheel when I'm riding the clutch. The master cylinder is self adjusting so that the height remains constant. *I'll just have to turn the nut on the piston shaft to see if I can adjust to match the height of the other pedals as left-foot braking becomes difficult on days I feel sporty. * The driving feel of the pedal doesn't feel nice like my friend's EP3 Civic or co-worker's DC5 Integra. *I didn't buy the manual subframe for this car as these cars come in manual locally and I was waiting for when I buy the EP3 K20 to buy that subframe at the same time (possibly online). * *With that being said, the automatic bracket didn't line up with the manual engine mount for the D15B so it had to be "cut-off" and welded in the proper position for it to work (the rubber mounts were going anyway). *I'll post up the video I took of the improper line-up process when it finishes uploading.






The moment of truth, only revealed that the transmission only selects second, fourth and reverse. *The transmission grinds and doesn't engage in first, third, and fifth gear when I come off the clutch. so I have to be moving off in second (burning the clutch uphill) and over revving to jump into fourth gear. *Since I'm using the EP3 Si shifter (ordered through Kahlil) and cable (ordered through 2NR) for the K20A, the cable throw may be too short to "push" the mechanism far enough to select those gears. *The cable itself isn't adjustable, so I'm open to recommendations for anyone who can cut and extend shifter cables. *In the end, I just realised that the inspection plate wasn't even installed (they claimed it wasn't compatible) thus leaving this gap where the engine and gearbox meet, so I have to avoid dirt roads and rain water at all costs until I can get the transmission pulled apart again to fix the gearbox issues.

I used the manual ECU that (apparently) came from a manual ES3 D17A2 with code PLR-J13. *The starter wouldn't engage by turning the key, so the starter was bridged to the battery to get the car to the mechanic's electrician so that he could sort out the now non-functional vehicle speed sensor, reverse switch, and starter (since we aren't using the automatic part of the loom on the ECU). *That was a absolute mess when he was done as I was driving home later that night, the headlights weren't working neither were the dashboard lights, the power windows weren't working, *neither the wiper blades or window squirt. *I had to have a friend look it over and resolve most of the non-functioning parts as the electrician had even removed the "check-engine" light-bulb which was alerting me to problems during the conversion process.
Nitrous1024 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 08-20-2012, 03:51 PM   #4 (permalink)
n00b
 
Addixflex's Avatar
 
iTrader: (0)
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Kingston,Jamaica
Posts: 30
Rep Power: 0 Addixflex is trying to make new friends
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Default

good work.. saw this thread on wheels
Addixflex is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-20-2012, 03:54 PM   #5 (permalink)
n00b
 
iTrader: (0)
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Kingston, Jamaica
Posts: 29
Rep Power: 0 Nitrous1024 is nobody
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Default

I want to get to the point where I can select all gears now before boosting the life out of it.
Nitrous1024 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-23-2013, 08:56 AM   #6 (permalink)
n00b
 
iTrader: (0)
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Kingston, Jamaica
Posts: 29
Rep Power: 0 Nitrous1024 is nobody
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Default

It’s been awhile since I’ve seriously updated this thread.
I knew for a while that the plastic portions of my radiator cap was deteriorating to the point where it was just the spring keeping the radiator closed to atmospheric pressure. This wasn't a problem for me as my radiator doesn't leak or give cooling problems. This was the case until strange things started happening under the bonnet after finally replacing the radiator cap. One day, I was driving and noticed that there was what appeared to be fine white mist being produced before the front bumper. I had found this strange, but thought nothing of it as it was a cold day and I was tailgating a CRV that appeared to be smoking badly. The journey was a long one and as such the CRV up ahead happened to be going to the same location I was driving towards. The next day, the problem became more apparent, as the fine mist became steam and was definitely emanating from under the bonnet. Lifting the bonnet didn't reveal anything unusual as there were no smells of anything burning or any weird oil leaks. The dashboard showed no abnormal conditions. Since I always drive around with my OBD2 scan-tool, I did a quick scan which shows no symptoms (other than a faulty O2 sensor that I already knew about). Obviously the steam had to be coolant coming from the radiator (although there are no visible cracks or leaks). I tried driving the car closer to anywhere I can buy coolant to patch the problem. At this point the radiator yielded under pressure sending the thermometer past the redzone in a matter of seconds. I spent most of the time cruising in 4th and 5th gear keeping the RPM low and taking frequent breaks keeping the engine cool. To cut a long story short, I got the car home and started removing the front bumper (which covers the entire radiator) to see a hairline crack on the “top-tank”. I just went straight ahead to remove the radiator and A/C stuff to get to it. Since it would have to be repaired or replaced anyway. Superior Parts, didn’t have a compatible radiator. Bert’s didn't have anything for me either.
First of all, I should give a huge shout out to TurboDre who had I had only met twice before for some other car-part sales. I called up TurboDre who promptly passed by, and transported me (and the radiator) to the various repair places late that evening (in the pouring rain) to get it fixed. We ended up having to make a couple stops until we arrived at “Best Radiator” who replaced the top-tank for a reasonable fee. TurboDre even fixed one of my radiator fans that had been working intermittently due to a worn graphite brush. In all this, it is good to know that there are still good Samaritans in the world that are still willing to help even when there was no benefit to him to go through all that trouble. Re-installing the radiator and A/C components was more labor intensive than removing it in the first place, but with the help of good people, anything is possible.

The car has gone through several small changes to make it more drivable.
I've been driving around with the defective gearbox for a while until I decided to do a clutch replacement and get the gearbox changed. On the day of the replacement, I intentionally grounded the gears down to nothing along Haggley Park road and coasted the car down to Superior Parts. I didn't want Superior Parts giving this defective gearbox to any other unsuspecting customer. The warranty swap went through fairly well since I had taken the day off from work to get it done. I tested all 5+1 gears and they worked fine with this replacement box (or so I thought). The gears were noted to be even shorter than the previous box. Two days later, I noticed that this replacement box was exhibiting similar symptoms of the previous one. This time around, the car will “jump” out of first gear if the shifter isn't placed firmly into gear (seventh gen gearboxes have a tactile “click” feel to let you know that it is in gear). The other issue is that 5th gear will fail to engage sometimes and as such I have to either double clutch (although it’s not needed for a synchronized gearbox) or wiggle the shifter in the fifth gear for a little bit before removing my foot from the clutch pedal (I end up losing some speed and vehicle momentum in the process).

I’ve grown accustomed to driving the car like this for a while and as such after some online research, I’ve realized that this is a common thing with the seventh generation Civic gearboxes to give these problems.
I really need some new transmission mounts as my current ones are dead (too much launching from a standstill at traffic lights and one too many burnouts). My plan is to buy a new set of the OEM ones and fortify them with the Energy Suspension polyurethane inserts so that I don’t keep tearing them every few weeks.
Finally, I got around to lowering the clutch pedal back to the correct specs. As simple as it may appear, it felt like a back breaking process as the adjustment nut was way up underneath the dashboard. To make the working environment more comfortable, I had removed both front seats to make use of the completely flat floor with no handbrake or hump in the center so that I can now lie more comfortably on my side so that I can use both hands to adjust the locking-nut. Needless to say, this makes gear changes smoother since I only need to rest my foot lightly on the clutch pedal and the clutch is fully disengaged (ahh, the joys of a hydraulic clutch).

Plastic covering temporarily removed for the photograph, so that you can see the pedals clearly. Trust me when I say that I don't normally keep down there this dirty, but I was doing re-wiring to install something. It will be cleaned up by next weekend


I had bought an OEM FD2 shift knob from RJD which effective made my shifter 3.5 inches shorter thus making it effectively a short shifter. The added benefit I noted was that my first gear always works as it is supposed to as the “throw” is much more precise (previously I’ve been driving around with the automatic shift knob mounted on top which was about 4 inches tall including the threading). This also made me notice that 5th gear now works if I select an imaginary spot between 3rd and 5th. This would then definitely indicate a bent or worn shift fork. Andrew had warned me about this on previous occasions since I couldn’t have known how the previous owner treated the gearbox. I now need to get the shift boot to complete the appearance of the dashboard properly.

For those of you who were wondering, this is what it actually looks like in my car:







The base of the shifter looks like this:





If you currently have an OEM plastic shifter, then installing this one will make your shift knob sit at least half-an-inch lower making it effectively a short shifter (at least it did for my EP3 shifter setup) since the threads really go right through the shift knob allowing you to screw it down even more if you wanted to.

Andrew finally brought down the EP3 handbrake for me. At that point, I had realized that there is a difference between the LHD & RHD handbrake, but it fits my application quite fine and I just need to remember to get the LHD center console for it. I wasted no time locating the three holes that would need to be drilled and the section of the chassis that the two slots would need to be drilled to accept the pair of handbrake cables.



This is where the pair of handbrake cables currently originally came through under the passenger seat for the foot operated handbrake:
Nitrous1024 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-23-2013, 08:57 AM   #7 (permalink)
n00b
 
iTrader: (0)
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Kingston, Jamaica
Posts: 29
Rep Power: 0 Nitrous1024 is nobody
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Default

I had someone else do the actual installation as didn’t have a hydraulic lift to raise and lower the vehicle several times to meticulously check for the alignment of the holes and the protruding cables that would have to be made. The operation of the handbrake proved that the rear brakes need to be replaced as I had replaced only the front ones the other day. I’m looking to get some custom carpeting done to the floor as I no longer like how the stock one looks. There is also the plastic center console that should surround the handbrake that needs to be ordered. This will also contain the ash tray and cup-holder. This will be added weight, but I think its aesthetics should complete the project.

These are a few photos of the handbrake finally mounted without any carpeting or center console:







I need to do an alignment on all 4 wheels, but I need to replace all the OEM bushings as some had deteriorated due to old-age and falling into too many potholes. I also want new shocks and springs as there is too much body roll during hard cornering and the car slides around too much having no lateral grip.

I know I have lots of photos to post up; I just need to get the bandwidth to upload it all.


[quote author=TurboDré link=topic=187284.msg3017513#msg3017513 date=1365771227]
U still plan on getting it boosted?
[/quote]
Yes. Most definitely. There is NO doubt about it.

The exchange rate is literally killing me. Let me put it in perspective.

Months ago when I had asked 2NR to order the handbrake, he quoted a price of about 13K(shipped and cleared). Since I had my money tied up in other things, I told him to hold off on ordering it. Finally, when I gave him the "go ahead" to order the handbrake it ended up costing me between 25-28K (shipped and cleared). The time-span between the two prices was about 2-3 months.

Each time I dream about the K20 swap, I think about the fact that I could get good prices from David or Bally in which I'd be looking at about 260-275K with gearbox and axles. The only thing I's need to do is to make a custom exhaust manifold to work with my chassis (since the engine would be turned the other way around in comparison to the D15). Since I had delayed on those offers, I'm now looking at around 380K for the engine, gearbox and axles complete.
I haven't factored the labour cost for installation, fabrication, and someone to to the wiring of the harness to my existing wireloom. I'd still need to order engine mounts from http://hasport.com/store/index.php/m...c/es/esk3.html for the $550
Then there is the need for a suspension upgrade to handle the increased weight of the K20A. And upgraded front brakes to actually bring the car to a stop when I go crazy on the street. I'd have to replace the back-end to do a drum-brake to disc brake conversion. I still can't find out if the Civic RS uses the same back-end.
...low on funds right now, I'll leave that option until a later date.

Option:3
I want to get the D15 compression tested with a leak test to see the health of the rings. The idea was to do a (slight) rebore of the cylinders for use with a fatter piston and over-sized rings to increase displacement and make the rod/stroke ratio a little closer to being "square". A complete port & polish would be in order with some headwork to increase flow. The rods would be replaced with something that can take more than 220whp (although my goal is about 210). Bearings would have to be upgraded at the same time as I can't be bother to worry about dealing with any spun bearings in the future.
Dropping in a turbocharger with a good EMS would then call it a day. I'm still trying to find an intercooler small, yet effective enough to fit my front bumper as the radiator is already in that space. I wanted to know if I could effectively reduced the size of the radiator and get the same amount of cooling and get a "square" intercooler so that they could sit side by side although my A/C condenser also shares the same space (its a really cramped engine bay). Any turbo manifold that I think of would have to be a custom job because the turbo would have to be mounted on the side somehow due to the limitation in space. Exhaust work would need to be done to effectively exhale the added waste the turbo will put out. I'm thinking about getting a straight pipe with two cherry bombs for street use and to pass fitness legally. Yet, I've been advised that I can just replace the catalytic converter with a test-pipe and maintain some amount of back-pressure for low end torque. King Midas is quoting me a figure of about 22K to replace my existing exhaust including downpipe for increased flow, but I have no idea if this price is fair or if they fully understand what I want to accomplish at the end of the process.
If feel weird to be the first to be contemplating a modification like this as changing one variable causes another something else to break.
Nitrous1024 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the D-series.org forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


iconAll times are GMT -8. The time now is 08:55 PM. | Welcome to Forum, please register to access all of our features.