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Old 12-29-2010, 05:33 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Block Guard?

Has anyone used one of these on a d17? I am in the market for one and was wondering which one is the best and did you weld it in or just press fit it?
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Old 12-29-2010, 05:52 PM   #2 (permalink)
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did you weld it in
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Old 12-29-2010, 05:56 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by j182j View Post
Has anyone used one of these on a d17? I am in the market for one and was wondering which one is the best and did you weld it in or just press fit it?
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Old 12-29-2010, 06:02 PM   #4 (permalink)
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block guards are a marketing gimmick

fuck block guards. waste of money


and if you seriously asked if they could be welded in, you obviously saw or heard from a friend about the existence of block guards.

do research yo. do research
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Old 12-29-2010, 06:15 PM   #5 (permalink)
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definitely needs to be welded in......
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Old 12-29-2010, 07:05 PM   #6 (permalink)
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lawl. i dont really know all that much about them either, i know people look down on them though. im honestly curious... why arent they helpful? dont they help hold the sleeves in place? <--n00b question. had to come out sometime lol. obviously i know sleeves are the way to go, but isnt a block guard just basically a miniature sleeve?
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Old 12-30-2010, 08:40 AM   #7 (permalink)
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welded i thought you just put them in......
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Old 12-30-2010, 08:43 AM   #8 (permalink)
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correction

you dont install them period

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Old 12-30-2010, 08:50 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I ran two builds with block guards. (both block were REBUILT "built") i never had any over heating issues or cyl. wall issues what so ever. Obvioulsy if you are going to want to build a 400hp beast and are going to be giving it hell you run a chance with or with or without a block guard of damaging the cyl. walls.

I have seen cases on here and HT where people post that the cyl. walls egg shaped on them and caused the motor to take a poop. It's a personal preferance i guess? If i were to build another 250-300 HP D turbo budget build in the future I would run one only b/c i wont put 500-1000 in a sleeved block for a D series motor and I (knock on wood) had good results when i ran them in the past.

**when ordering one watch out for the styles that completly cover the water jacket opening or cover most of it.
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Old 12-30-2010, 09:40 AM   #10 (permalink)
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simply put, they are an item that makes an open deck simulate a closed deck. honda motors are well designed, so most dont see much effect from the cooling pasage being restricted a little more.

Its simply most, hell almost all, cylinder deformation occurs below the top/ceiling of the combustion chamber. as the piston is being blown down, the gases of course wanna push past those rings very hard.


There are good guards out there. even then, they are at most one of those "buy so I dont worry" items.



For those who install them anyway, do your motor a big favor, make a deck plate, install the guard, use good headbolts to torque the deck plate down, and gewt at lkeast an alignment bore, if not a fresh overbore.

at least your cylinders will be 100% true to the best of your ability.

yes, a guard can squash a cylinder wall that nearly immeasurable distance.

hell, block posting requires an alignment bore, and they literally have INCH POUNDS of surface tension on the outer wall of the sleeves/bore
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Old 12-30-2010, 03:56 PM   #11 (permalink)
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if i planned on getting a block guard id get the supertech one... which i might later since im not sure about anything on my built but the guy above me is right everything will always need to be aligned after. how much do you guys think a D16z6 block can handle if built right? i planned on getting eagles and cp's for the bottom and a mild cam for the top with a lil extra head work, so i guess my question is how much horsepower can the stock walls be pushed?
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Old 12-30-2010, 05:07 PM   #12 (permalink)
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with aftermarket rods and pistons, the block will take 4-500whp with obviously good tuning and driving. some have touched 600whp

with a sleeved block and aftermarket rods and pistons, your wallet is your limit
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Old 12-30-2010, 06:15 PM   #13 (permalink)
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nice thanks for the help this car will always be a street car so 400hp would be the most id ever wana go with it if that so i guess its nice to know a sleeves arent required.
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Old 12-30-2010, 06:26 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Id definitely recommend sleeves at 400whp, but many people have succeeded without them.

Matter of having a great tune, good car care, and brains behind the wheel.

should be okay
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Old 12-30-2010, 06:34 PM   #15 (permalink)
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oh lol idk its really in the tune then cus the other 2 are right up my ally, hmm idk i plan on building a block this year with eagles, pistons, and new bearings and all that probably clutch and lsd at the same time, i just didnt wana put alot of headwork into it if the block couldnt handle it, ill go as high as reliability will let me, extreme reliability that is.
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Old 01-03-2011, 09:35 PM   #16 (permalink)
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just going to throw in my .02 cents since I have a d17 that has a block guard.

and Darton sleeves and crower rods and wiesco pistons lol

the problem with block guards is you can pick them for fairly cheap so a lot of people try to grab them and shove them in. but the real problem is the install since it is so cheap I have heard numbers of stories of people just pounding them in or pressing them in which will cause warping in the top of the cylinder and usually cause massive amounts of problems. If they are installed properly by a machine shop that knows what they are doing and the sleeves are aligned honed and everything checked then they can be good. but that is not cheap to do even though the part is cheap.

as far as cooling issues I have heard stories of it jacking up the the temp from blocking the coolant passages. But on my car I have no cooling issues, and it hasn't raised my coolant temp any.

is it worth it to have a block guard for the cost it takes to put it in properly not really IMO

and sleeves are not worth IMO cause if you throw a rod it will go throw the sleeve even if it is aftermarket a good tune is the most important thing I know I have sleeves but I bought the block like that it wasn't up to me. and we hit 489hp on Andyman97's car on 30 lbs of boost and c16 race gas on stock sleeves on a d17 and we had no problems and everything held together even when he was in 3rd gear at 8000rpms and shifted in to 4th and let out the clutch not knowing it was actually in 2nd. block held up fine just a hone to clean up the sides of the walls and the pistons looked like rolled up balls of tin foil.

so I hope some of that helps
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Old 01-04-2011, 10:56 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Ive heard that they can do good by helping the sleeves by not wiggling around, but if a sleeve is going to crack, it will crack. I have also heard that they are kind of a waist of effort and time. Just my .02
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Old 01-04-2011, 11:24 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattliston View Post
block guards are a marketing gimmick

fuck block guards. waste of money


and if you seriously asked if they could be welded in, you obviously saw or heard from a friend about the existence of block guards.

do research yo. do research
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Old 01-04-2011, 11:45 AM   #19 (permalink)
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i had one in my d15 build bought the motor with it in. i hated it i dont know if it was installed incorectly but i blew 2 headgaskets tore it apart and sold the motor.
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Old 01-04-2011, 12:39 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bomerman19 View Post
we hit 489hp on Andyman97's car on 30 lbs of boost and c16 race gas on stock sleeves on a d17 and we had no problems and everything held together even when he was in 3rd gear at 8000rpms and shifted in to 4th and let out the clutch not knowing it was actually in 2nd. block held up fine just a hone to clean up the sides of the walls and the pistons looked like rolled up balls of tin foil.

so I hope some of that helps
I remember his build on 7thgen, he had a built bottom end though did he?
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