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Old 04-23-2010, 03:56 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default D17a1 to D17a2 Conversion

Sorry i dont have time to research, but i blew up my d17a1 and i want to put a d17a2 and i was wondering if i could run the stock ECU and retain all stock wiring, and just not run VTEC temporarily. thanks for your help in advance guys.
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Old 04-24-2010, 09:56 AM   #2 (permalink)
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If your going to put a d17a2 in, minus will hook up vtec? I believe all you need is a ecu for the d17a2 motor and run the v tec wires/knock sesior. Without it, it runs like crap. Help this helps.
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Old 04-24-2010, 11:05 AM   #3 (permalink)
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That was hardly a coherent statement but thank you. Let me clarify even more. I dont want to buy an ecu nor do i have time to run wires. I just want to know if I could "slap" in a v-tec motor and run it off my non-vtec ecu and just not hit v-tec. I need a motor for my dd and I just want to upgrade while im at it. I dont want to rev it out or anything. I need a car. Thanks again.
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Old 04-24-2010, 11:07 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Please help me out guys I need to order this motor and get things going. As soon as possible!!!
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Old 04-24-2010, 11:11 AM   #5 (permalink)
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im running a D16z6 in my Dx sedan with stock wiring/ecu (not set up for Vtec)... works fine for me?
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Old 04-24-2010, 11:15 AM   #6 (permalink)
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yes you can run a vtec motor off of a non vtec ecu. you just won't have vtec and i think some of the fuel/ignition tables are different
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Old 04-24-2010, 02:31 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Nice. Thanks guys. So glad to be going v-tec. speedfoos sent me a map a while back and now i can use it. muhahaha
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Old 04-24-2010, 04:02 PM   #8 (permalink)
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V-TEC motor in transit! Swap pics to come!
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Old 04-24-2010, 06:23 PM   #9 (permalink)
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im just saying that the d17a2 is a VTEC-E motor. so in reality, its going to run quite crappy until you get a tuning solution to run vtec. VTEC engages at 4500 i believe...but after that point is when the motor runs on all 4 valves per cylinder. below that it operates on three. with VTEC disabled, you will be running on three valves per cylinder until you get VTEC wired. Some food for thought
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Old 04-24-2010, 09:16 PM   #10 (permalink)
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It will "run" but will completely fall on its face after about 3500 RPMs because you won't have any way to activate the larger cam profile.
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Old 04-25-2010, 01:57 PM   #11 (permalink)
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You'll probably be in limp mode as well. So you will basically hit the rev limiter at 4k. You should just pick up a vtec controller aka vafc2. That way all you have to do is run a wire for vtec and it will run just fine.
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Wait what is that?!?!? 105 whp?? What did I dyno at? 125 whp?? Do the math.. 125 - 105 = ???? 20whp?

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Old 05-03-2010, 11:23 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I did this for a while after my old A1 non-vtec hydrolocked from a big flood time i had at my home town. I replaced the motor with an a2 (vtec) and ran it with the nothing but the stock ECU for a few long months. It was EXTRA SLOW and you could feel at about 3300rpm where it really slowed up where vtec-e should have opened the other valve. Later when i came back from being stationed in Texas i bought an Apexi Neo and got that hooked up, simply running to the vtec solenoid...since then it's worked like a charm. Felt a significant difference actually. Hope this helps.
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Old 06-22-2010, 01:05 PM   #13 (permalink)
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just so gay they never made a vtec engine for the 7th gens
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Old 07-10-2010, 06:56 PM   #14 (permalink)
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ya your car will deffinitely run. i've had a few times where my vtec wire has become disconnected on my d17a1 with a2 headswap. its fine. i have stage 1 cam which deffinitely makes a difference in the lower rev band. d17 vtec isnt that bad if u get sweet cams for it and get it tuned.
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